S3 cuts out when warm :-s !! Anyone else had this ?

[motfree]

Hi there ..
Driving along the other day and my S3 suddenly cut out and would re start .. After getting the aa out they thought maybe crank sensor due to it being head related ..
Anyways got it too an audi specialist and they cant find any fault codes that it didn't have 6 months ago ( lambda sensor )

Just wondering anyone else had this problem ?

 

[Ian W]

I went through a stage of this happening, strange as it sounds it was my knee knocking the key and switching it off lol

 

[motfree]

Haha wish this was my problem :-(

 

[finesse]

scan the car vagcom

 

[motfree]

scan the car vagcom

Already done no fault codes

 

[s3dave]

youve just put the engine in right? check all connectors again and the main fuses

 

[motfree]

youve just put the engine in right? check all connectors again and the main fuses

Well it's at a specialist I think they've have a good look over it and they can't seem to work it out .. Got to be something like that though i guess as no faults are coming up .. Was fine for a day or 2 after getting engine fitted though that's what I don't understand !!
Never had Soooo much hassle from a car before haha
If it was something not connected properly wouldn't that show on the diagnostics ?

 

[motfree]

What could be the results of my s3 doing this ?? Eg coolant temp sensor ... Etc
Its just I've been told that faults don't always show up on diagnostics so might do bits to rule this out and see where I stand as the garage don't seem too keen on sorting the problem out !!

 

[Ian W]

Where is it?

 

[motfree]

Where is it?

Discount audi vw in elsmereport ..

 

[DJ_Troopa]

I went through a stage of this happening, strange as it sounds it was my knee knocking the key and switching it off lol

That made me LOL how tall are you?

 

[Optimum Tuning]

ive had a similar problem with a tt a pipe in the tank had come off.first job- try to monitor rpm signal when cranking with vag com

 

[motfree]

ive had a similar problem with a tt a pipe in the tank had come off.first job- try to monitor rpm signal when cranking with vag com

Was this when the car was warm though ?? It was fine before I had the new engine put in and everything off my old engine has gone on this one ..

 

[Optimum Tuning]

The tt cut out and would never start again and no fault codes stored .best to go back to basics with yours i think mate,has it got a spark ?does it have fuel pressure etc? then go from there. The ecu must think everything is within parameters and circuits must have continuity for it to show no fault codes.e.g no fuel pressure will not show any faults as there is no sensor!

 

[Broken Byzan]

Crank sensor is a common one, and it doesnt always throw a code as many have learnt already.

When it failed and the AA said it was the crank sensor, did you replace it?

 

[Ian W]

That made me LOL how tall are you?

Only 5'10

My key was pretty ruined though and used to just hang down, it was only when I was in full relax mode on the motorway i'd do it lol

 

[motfree]

The tt cut out and would never start again and no fault codes stored .best to go back to basics with yours i think mate,has it got a spark ?does it have fuel pressure etc? then go from there. The ecu must think everything is within parameters and circuits must have continuity for it to show no fault codes.e.g no fuel pressure will not show any faults as there is no sensor!

When it was recovered by the aa he made sure fuel was coming through then he checked injectors .. Also checked there was a spark .. God hate cars sometimes haha good when they ain't poorly !!
If there's fuel getting through and a spark I'm not even sure where to go from there ..

 

[motfree]

Crank sensor is a common one, and it doesnt always throw a code as many have learnt already.

When it failed and the AA said it was the crank sensor, did you replace it?

Not yet because wanted to get it plugged in first .. I've been told could be a number of things but a crank sensor is £30 .. Coolant temp sensor £30 ish need to borrow parts I think haha
But only cuts out when it's warm .. Then leave it for 20 mins half an hour and starts straight away ..

 

[Broken Byzan]

the temp sender usually affects the way it starts and runs and not make it cut out.

We have seen a good few on here with warm failure of crank sensor. Once cut out, i assume it won't start until it's been stood?

 

[motfree]

the temp sender usually affects the way it starts and runs and not make it cut out.

We have seen a good few on here with warm failure of crank sensor. Once cut out, i assume it won't start until it's been stood?

Yep have to wait for about 20 mins then will start up straight away but cut out again once reaches certain temp ..
Doesn't it always show on diagnostics then ?

 

[motfree]

Engine speed sensor .. Would this cause the engine to cut out like described ??

 

[Broken Byzan]

yes, same thing, just a different name mate.

be wary of buying pattern parts too on these especially

 

[1animal1]

my monies on the crank sensor....... make sure the pattern part is the right one, a well known VAG parts bloke sent me a golf item which ISN'T the same regardless of fitting in the same hole.....mine cost £35

 

[motfree]

Well the garage said they think this is the fault .. But £60 odd plus vat !! Bit steep I think !!

 

[finesse]

Yellow : Oil filter
Red : Crank/speed sensor

This is an informational post about the Engine Speed Sensor. If you're having a starting problem or a ignition (spark) problem, please read.-----STORY - WHAT HAPPENED-----
So I was having a problem with my car not starting intermittently, and it progressed to my car dying while driving and then not starting. If I let the car sit for 30 minutes or a couple of hours, it would finally start, but would die in a few minutes. Sometimes it wouldn't die that soon, but it would eventually die. I narrowed it down to no spark. After researching on here, I decided to replace the Engine Speed Sensor (ESS). This post is just for searching purposes and to let everyone know what I went through and what fixed the problem.
Everything I read on the boards led me to believe the ESS was the prime suspect. Without the ESS, the car will crank and crank, but there will not be a spark.
I read in my Bentley that to check the sensor, measure the resistance, and it should be between 500 and 700 ohms. It doesn't tell you how to test, it just lists the specifications. There are 3 pins on the connector, and with it installed in the car, I couldn't get a reading on any two pins, but that didn't make sense, because the car would run.
I took the sensor out with a 5mm allen wrench and tried the test again. I got a reading of 860 ohms between the center pin and one side pin, so I thought I had confirmed a bad sensor. I ordered a new sensor for $80 ( I know you can get it cheaper, but I needed it next day, etc, etc...), and when it arrived, I checked the resistance -- 850 ohms. I really didn't know what to think, so I installed it anyway. Car has ran like a champ ever since I installed it -- no dying, no starting issues.
-----SENSOR INFORMATION-----
Here are some things I learned while working with this issue.
The ESS, or G28 sensor, is located on the front of the block below and to the right of the oil filter housing. It is black plastic and has a single black cable coming out of it and is held in place with a single 5mm Allen bolt. The black cable has a white 3-pin connector located (on a mkIII) just behind the cooling fans and to the left of the starter. There is another 3-pin connector right next to it that is brown. Don't confuse the two, the other is for the front knock sensor.
I don't know how to test the sensor. My bad sensor and the new sensor had the same resistance of 850 ohms which is above the listed spec.
How it works -- The sensor is installed in a position where it is almost touching the large gear on the crankshaft. The large gear has 2 missing teeth. By playing with the sensor and a continuity tester, you will notice that the sensor is actually a very strong magnet. When you bring it close to a metal object and away again, the ohms will drop to zero for a quick burst (it has continuity). So, this tells me that when that 2-tooth gap comes around, the sensor signals the ECU with a short blip of continuity.
-----OTHER STUFF-----
If you're having a no-spark issue, be sure you think about the ESS. It's VERY easy to replace, and is cheaper than other ignition system parts if you shop around...

 

[1animal1]

£60!! try and fit it yourself on the drive ....trust me, if that includes the part, its a bargain.......half hour labour for a garage with a ramp

 

[motfree]

Well just said to them fix it as I didnt know where to start haha .. Well rang them this afternoon and they said £140 plus vat for diagnostics , oil and filter change and the sensor so isn't too bad I guess .. Be glad to have it sorted !!

 

[1animal1]

just hope that does it mate..... welcome to never having any money lol

 

[motfree]

Haha I'm supprised I've still got it to be honest I get bored very easy but I think the speed keeps me keen

 

[Welly]

Crank sensor is a common one, and it doesnt always throw a code as many have learnt already.

When it failed and the AA said it was the crank sensor, did you replace it?

Already suggested this to OP when he PM'd me - lol.

 

[Audi_Alex]

Hi Guys,

it looks like I have got the same problem with my S3. When it tries to cut out on me, i shift it into a lower gear and the engine starts again for another few hundred metres. Does this point to the crank sensor going?

There are no fault codes either

Thanks in advance for any help

 

[chazza55]

When my crank sensor went I usually was able to almost get to work (4miles) before it was warm enough to cause problems.

When cold, the resistance was within spec, when warm (after cut out) it was out of spec.

Sometimes got fault codes, sometimes didn't. When I did it was for the cam shaft intake side being over advanced/retarded.

In the early days of the problem I was able to get to work but the engine would have gone into limp home with an epc light in the dash

 

[Audi_Alex]

Hi chazza,

This sounds exactly like my problem at the moment, so did you replace the crank sensor and all was fine afterwards?

I've got a quote for a new sensor to be £118.37, seems quite steep doesn't it?

Cheers

 

[chazza55]

yup - all was fine after the new sensor was fitted.

fitted myself......quite easy......1 single allen key screw near the oil filter.......need to get the front on ramps/axle stands to get under the car to do it.

think i paid about £106 for mine - cant remember where from (maybe audi as eurocarparts didnt have the bosch version, only some pattern part).

so i guess your quote isn't too far off..............unless you can find one from a breakers yard? but then you dont know how much life is left in that one.

I am actually still using a sensor from a spare VW Bora engine my friend had.......that has been running for over a year now with no issues....but will do intend to fit the new sensor this "summer".

Good luck with it!