Speedo/cluster swap... problem

guysy

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My friend has a 04 3.2 Quattro...

The temperature level on the speedo wasn't working, so we bought a spare cluster with intention to unsolder the movement for the temperature and solder it onto the non working part... before this was done, he changed the "chip" over from the old cluster to the new one hoping that the new cluster would install the information and would be an easy swap..

However we didn't know about the coding, now the temperature sensor is soldered on the old clusters... all the dials are working...

But now he has a power steering light and no power steering and an abs fault light up...

What have we cased by doing what has caused these faults ? he hasn't turned the battery off for several minutes in hope to rest anything, if that happens?

Any help greatly appreciated.
 
The cluster is from the same year, same speed range etc... almost an exact swap..

All he has done is tried the chip from the old in the new, it wouldnt start... so the old back in the old... and the temperature sensor from the new over to the old... all dials working but no power steering and abs light up now..
 
When ever you disconnect a cluster you need to do as NHN has said to recalibrate the slip ring for the ESP which is connected to the ABS. You will need a diagonstic lead to perform these functions.
 
Ahh i see, Ok that clears it up, so we need to find someone with diagnostics, and we need to ask for the slip ring to be recalibrated, what about the power steering, will that be corrected after?

Ive read £40 a few times... is that right for the calibration?
 
The car has had diagnostics today, no faults could be cleared...

The faults are:

01: 00474: Control module open for immobilizer circuit

02: 01279 Longitudinal acceleration sender -G251

03: 00810 Brake pressure senders 1/2

04: 00778 Steering angle sender -G85

05: 01423 Sensor for lateral acc. G200


............

Right, the bloke said no faults could be turned off... he said phone this other person, so i did and explained and he said he couldn't really get his head around it and he couldn't really help as travelling out to do it not knowing was too much work for him...

The power steering fault the diagnostics man said was due to the steering angle sender, but could also be the clocks throwing that up and not the sender?

The acceleration senders... longit and lat... Is this the Halrex(sp) system, as we already know that's a fault..

We want to get the clocks re calibrated, and sort the power steering out, both the mechanic and us where not sure why the power steering has stopped working..

If the acceleration faults are the Haldrex system, we cant afford to fix that at the moment, but were also wondering why the brake pressure senders are at fault ..

Any help really appreciated.
 
When fitting a new cluster, the 1st thing you need to do is sort the immobilizer issue. The car need to run to sort the others issues.

After you have sorted that so that you can start the car you can correct the other issues. They are not fault codes that can be deleted as such, they are there due to the modules needing calibrated. They can only be cleared by doing the steps in the links above that NHN gave you.
 
The fact you messed with the immo could explain why you now have an immo error, I did advise it wasnt a good idea, most of those errors are as Ew correctly stated & I already told you, they need calibrating, the immo error, well you could of completely ******** it.
 
Thanks for the replies,

We didn't know fully what we where dealing with, we didn't think swapping the clusters over would cause problems, but as we have found out with the more sophisticated cars they cant be messed with,

When you say immobiliser... that is now at fault because we tried to switch the chip over from the old into the new and tried to start it yes? tripping the immobiliser problem, then it wouldn't start and swapped it back to the original clocks and it started but with the stated faults, we know were in trouble now and just want to get it sorted and move on..

From what i can understand, the immobiliser is at fault because we tried to start the car with the wrong clocks.. i haven't taken in will that be sorted under recalibration or not?

The other problems hopefully will be sorted when reprogrammed i hope.

So now were looking at recalibrating the clocks, and the slip ring, and go from there,

I appreciate your advice NHN and others... i hope we haven't ******** the clocks,

Is it also correct after recalibration, if its all running ok... in future if you disconnect the battery, unplugging the clusters and re installing wont be a problem with the power off?

Further help appreciated.
 
Last edited:
I'm guessing in desoldering/soldering the immob chip you could well have damaged it with the heat or not soldered it back in correct ie dry joint etc. I cant imagine swapping the chips across would have been easy????
 
Was it a soldered chip or did it have a seat as such as I cant recall from when I took mine apart.
 
i'm sure it will be mounted like a SMT LED as opposed to pins through the board but with a hulluva lot more pins to do! I didnt circle anything....

audia3.jpg
 
Yeah but we know those pads as such are ****** small on some chips, I know my iphone thats now goosed has some connectors that are ridiculously small, need a new iron to fix that now, another challenge.
 
Apart from the immobiliser problem, it sounds like the problem I had HERE
 
Did look good tbh, did you ever get the mileage recoded?
 
The immobiliser wasn't de soldered and swapped over, the plan was and is to de solder the water temperature gauge from the new on to the old..

But we haven't done that...

All he did was, and im not sure exactly because i haven't looked at the clocks, pull something that can easily be pulled out from the old clocks, think he called it the small computer and plugged it into the new clocks in a hope that swapping that over all the information would be swapped over too... but that didn't work...

Thanks
 
So anyone want to back up that if we have the clocks recalibrated and the slip ring fault fixed most of the problems could go away?

We are located in Loughton, Essex, is there anyone close or someone who will travel to fix calibrate?

Thanks.
 
Normally:

If you unplugged the original clocks and put the new clocks in and tried to start the car that will give a fault code with the immobiliser that can be cleared using the lead after putting the original clocks back in. After putting the original clocks in the car it should start as normal but because you disconnected the clocks you will get the other errors that cant be cleared. The only way to get the lights out and get the steering to work properly is to go through the follow proccedures using the official VAGCOM lead:

Adaptation

Basic Setting

Sensor for Steering Angle (G85)

Prerequisites:

  • Start the vehicle.
  • Turn the steering wheel one turn to the right and one turn to the left.
  • Drive in a short distance straight line on a level surface at a speed not higher than 20 km/h.
  • If the steering wheel is straight during the test drive then stop the vehicle with the wheels pointed straight.
  • Ensure that the steering wheel is not moved again.
  • Keep the engine running and do not switch off the ignition.
  • System voltage at least 12.0 V.
[Select]
[03 - Brake Electronics]
[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Group 004
[Go!]
Check field 1, the value has to be between -1.5 and +1.5 °.
[Done, Go Back]
[Coding-II - 11]
OR (if Coding-II is not available)
[Security Access - 16]
Enter 40168, to enable the basic setting.
[Do it!]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 060
[Go!]
After a successful basic setting, field 2 should say "OK".
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

Note: After successful basic setting, the Steering Limit Stop needs to be adapted too.





Lateral Acceleration Sensor (G200)

Prerequisites:

  • System voltage at least 12.0 V.
[Select]
[03 - Brake Electronics]
[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Group 004
[Go!]
Check field 2, the value has to be between -1.5 and +1.5 m/s².
[Done, Go Back]
[Coding-II - 11]
OR (if Coding-II is not available)
[Security Access - 16]
Enter 40168, to enable the basic setting.
[Do it!]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 063
[Go!]
Activate the Basic Setting.
[ON/OFF/Next]
After a successful basic setting, field 2 should say "OK".
[Done, Go Back]
To make sure the basic setting was succesful, check the sensor again.
[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Group 004
[Go!]
Check field 2, the value has to be between -1.5 and +1.5 m/s².
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]





Brake Pressure Sensor 1 (G201)

Prerequisites:

  • System voltage at least 12.0 V.
[Select]
[03 - Brake Electronics]
[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Group 005
[Go!]
Check field 1, the value has to be between -8.0 and +8.0 bar.
[Done, Go Back]
[Coding-II - 11]
OR (if Coding-II is not available)
[Security Access - 16]
Enter 40168, to enable the basic setting.
[Do it!]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 066
[Go!]
Activate the Basic Setting.
[ON/OFF/Next]
After a successful basic setting, field 2 should say "OK".
[Done, Go Back]
To make sure the basic setting was succesful, check the sensor again.
[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Group 005
[Go!]
Check field 1, the value has to be between -3.8 and +3.8 bar.
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]





Longitudinal Acceleration Sensor (G251)

Prerequisites:

  • System voltage at least 12.0 V.
[Select]
[03 - Brake Electronics]
[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Group 004
[Go!]
Check field 4, the value has to be between -1.5 and +1.5 m/s².
[Done, Go Back]
[Coding-II - 11]
OR (if Coding-II is not available)
[Security Access - 16]
Enter 40168, to enable the basic setting.
[Do it!]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 069
[Go!]
Activate the Basic Setting.
[ON/OFF/Next]
After a successful basic setting, field 2 should say "OK".
[Done, Go Back]
To make sure the basic setting was succesful, check the sensor again.
[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Group 006
[Go!]
Check field 1, the value has to be between -1.5 and +1.5 m/s².
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]



The problem I can see is in the changing over of this chip. I dont know of any chip that is changeable on the cluster - it would make a joke of the immob system if it could be defeated by just swapping something over. I'd check that the chips are in the correct clusters & none of the pins are bent or broken etc.

I've swapped clusters over without having the immob issue, as when put my original back in the car started fine.
 
Cheers mate thats a step forward, we need to find someone with vagcom willing to do that for us...

Thanks for the help...
 

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