N249 bypass.. questions about N112 and SAI, help please (welly lol)

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coyle

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So, had a go at the N249 bypass following wellys guide..

encountered a few issues..

firstly, i snapped the valve off the N112, exactly the same as welly (i think i followed his guide too closely haha)

So basically, I've ran a piece of silicone hose from the inlet mani to the DV, and another piece to the FRP

I know i need to "T" in to the pipe from the inlet mani to the DV and run that to the N112, and then the other valve of the N112 up to the SAI, but due to it snapping, ive completely left it out (its still plugged in) but this also means the SAI has a valve which isn't being used, which should be connected.

So I drove from my mates, 30miles away, where i did the removal, and the car is running perfect, it feels a lot more responsive than before.
So my question is, so i need to re-plumb the N112 back in to the system? as effectively i have also taken the SAI out of the system too which i guess isn't good?

why is the N112 needed? and what does the SAI do? as currently im not using either

Cheers
Jon
 
The 2 valves just control the BPV and SAI. So if you deleted the SAI and ran a hose to the BPV you dont need either of those control valves.

SAI only comes on while the engine is cold and is really only there for emmissions to add air to the rich exhaust gas and increase the flow.
 
yeah, me too, whats the BPV? By-pass valve?

I think SAI dilutes the exhuast gasses when the engine is cold to improve emmisions and help the CAT.....I think
 
The SAI blows air into the engine/cat's on warm up for emissons etc, its stops running after several minutes of start up.
 
Whatever you do though you should leave them electrically connected... Welly will no doubt chip in with an explanation of this...

<tuffty/>
 
so do i not need to connect the hose which is currently from the DV to the inlet mani down to the N112 valve?

and I dont need to run a hose from the other size of the N112 to the SAI?

should i at least put a blank or something on top of the SAI? as currently its just a valve/tap with nothing on it at all?
 
yeh i have done tuffty, although the N112 has no hoses attached to it, it is still electrically connected, as is the N249
 
coyle said:
so do i not need to connect the hose which is currently from the DV to the inlet mani down to the N112 valve?

and I dont need to run a hose from the other size of the N112 to the SAI?

should i at least put a blank or something on top of the SAI? as currently its just a valve/tap with nothing on it at all?
Click to expand...


If you are no longer using the SAI you can just remove the valve that is bolted to the back of the head and just replace it with a block off plate.

Blockoff%20Plate.jpg
 
i think, because it's there, i'll try to include it, i'll get a "T" piece from the inlet mani to DV, to take to the N112, then the other N112 hose up to the SAI,

i'll either try and repair the N112 the same way Welly did, or try to source a new N112. any ideas where i'd get one from? and how much it would be?
 
But as it is all my solenoids are connected electrically
 
Question. Ive done the n249 bypass and left the solenoid connected but ive noticed that vagcom picks up on the n249 valve being faulty. Will this have the same effect as not having the solenoid connected and should I pick up a new solenoid to plug in place to clear the code?
 
I honestly cant remember the exact error. Ive been meaning to take another look but it did specifically mention the n249, infact my dv stopped working originally which prompted me to do the bypass. The dv works fine now so setup correctly.
 
badger5 said:
good.
Click to expand...

Yeah - what he said....

Leaving the solenoids unplugged will stop adaptive fuelling completely. Not only do you HAMMER through fuel on idle and cruise, but you also get a nice failure ticket at the MOT place...

Screw the N249 back to the metal plate, plug in and forget about it. Then remove the entire SAI system as the thing is a waste of space as well.

I was really chuffed off when I snapped the stub on the N112, but to be fair, it simply isn't important.
 
PS. Sorry for late response - didn't come on here at all over the weekend :(. Lots of things going on, none car related.
 
So how do i remove the sai completely?
I looked at the guide and it looked very complicated! Ive looked at the SAI and one of the coregated plastic pipes which runs from underneath it is snapped, it looks like it's gone brittle with age.

Before i get carried away.. The SAI is the silver meta circular parts on the right of the engine isnt it?
 
coyle said:
So how do i remove the sai completely?
I looked at the guide and it looked very complicated! Ive looked at the SAI and one of the coregated plastic pipes which runs from underneath it is snapped, it looks like it's gone brittle with age.

Before i get carried away.. The SAI is the silver meta circular parts on the right of the engine isnt it?
Click to expand...

Yes, but there is more to it than that. For now you can block off the pipe that originally went to the nipple you snapped off the N112.

You will need to get either a Forge or IE blanking plate to cap the hole in the side of the head.

The combi valve (silver bit on the side of the head) is only one part of a bigger system. The SAI pump lived down underneath the oil filter and that needs to be removed as well.

A bit of a pain to get out, but once doen, it also has the added benefit of making oil filter changes a sh*t load easier.

There is a guide to SAI removal here: http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/88299-sai-removal-guide.html
 
welly, the bit you snapped (same bit i snapped) is that the one which is to go the the T on the DV to inlet mani?
and the other one which didnt snap is to the SAI right?
 
If it's snapped dude, you basically run a single length of vac hose from the inlet manifold to the DV. The pipe to the SAI combi valve comes from the N112.
 
coyle said:
welly, the bit you snapped (same bit i snapped) is that the one which is to go the the T on the DV to inlet mani?
and the other one which didnt snap is to the SAI right?
Click to expand...

Having re-read that (too many glasses of vino), Yes, that's right.
 
haha, i read your 1st post and thought.. maybe il ask in the morning..
but yeh all good lol, i plastic welded a valve on, went ot but silicone hose on.. snap lol
but welded it on againg (with the hose attached first just incase)
 
I wouldn't worry too much dude, it won't affect the car's running. At worst it will give you an 'Incorrect flow' fault code.
 
audi upgrades
coyle said:
haha, i read your 1st post and thought.. maybe il ask in the morning..
but yeh all good lol, i plastic welded a valve on, went ot but silicone hose on.. snap lol
but welded it on againg (with the hose attached first just incase)
Click to expand...

Also, add some epoxy resin around the break for added strength.
 
where will i get that from in the morning halfords? or will b&q do something similar? i was going to put a layer of silicone over it all to make sure theres no air leaks
 
coyle said:
where will i get that from in the morning halfords? or will b&q do something similar? i was going to put a layer of silicone over it all to make sure theres no air leaks
Click to expand...

Sorry, epoxy resin is Araldite or similar. You should be able to get that from next to anywhere.
 
Ive snapped the connection off the n112 doin this, so did away with it and the SAI and the piping and just ran a hose from the inlet to the top of the dumpvalve with the one way valve as per the diagram above, is this ok?it seems it jus seems to take a while to build boost pressure up, but no fault codes as ive left he sai, the 112 and the 249 still plugged on
 
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