A few Issues with my S3

coyle

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Hi everyone,
got myself an s3 last night, it's 2000 /W reg, pre facelift, APY engine on 83000 miles

A few small issues I want to get sorted asap,
The fuel gauge, it reads about 25% fuel than is in the tank, as i learned today when it suddenly died.

The water temp gauge, reads 75-80 degrees, i presume that is the thermostat?

This morning it took 3 attempts (within 20seconds) to start it, coolant temperature sensor i think?

The EPS button doesnt do anything, when i press it i think it should come up on the dash? but nothing happens, i have no idea on this one?

any help appreciated
Jon
 
Had to strip the circuit board off the fuel pump in the tank to sort my missreads out its the opening under the back seat the one on the driver seat side , Try to do with a almost empty tank

Temp reading can be thermostat or temp sender not much to do both
 
had it in a local garage today (psi tuning) they said they calibrated the fuel gauge but it was still out, so could be the sender?
 
Also, ive got a brand new Forge Split R to put on, is this a decent one to fit? or is there better on the same budget? I paid £110 for it.
 
do i need the cap on for it to work as i was under the impression it would be ok running as hybrid, ie without the cap?
i was also led to believe it should be set up by turning it all the way to the left/anticlockwise and then turning it clockwise 15clicks as my engine is standard apart from that?
 
P1020852.jpg


there are two retaining lugs at the top and it slides down and off, clean the metal runners and check the fingers that run on them, tricky job but worth it
 
The EPS button doesnt do anything, when i press it i think it should come up on the dash? but nothing happens, i have no idea on this one?

Behind the steering wheel, below the instrument cluster there is a small plastic cover. Little tug and it will pop off. Behind the cover are two screws, remove these.

You should now be able to pull the instrument cluster from the dash, remove all wires from rear of IC and with the wheel centerd you will be able to pull it out from behind the wheel.

Remove all screws from rear off IC and it will pull apart. Lift the clocks and i put money on that there will be black tape covering the ESP light.

Reverse process to refit and check if the ESP lights up when switched off!
:icon_thumright:
 
Behind the steering wheel, below the instrument cluster there is a small plastic cover. Little tug and it will pop off. Behind the cover are two screws, remove these.

You should now be able to pull the instrument cluster from the dash, remove all wires from rear of IC and with the wheel centerd you will be able to pull it out from behind the wheel.

Remove all screws from rear off IC and it will pull apart. Lift the clocks and i put money on that there will be black tape covering the ESP light.

Reverse process to refit and check if the ESP lights up when switched off!
:icon_thumright:

why would there be black tape over the light? would someone cover it for a reason?
il check at the weekend.

also because its not using the standard headunit, the top part of the IC display isn't being illuminated, (it comes on to say OK when i turn the ignition, so i know it works) but are there any other messages etc that would come up on there that id be missing? eg low fuel etc?
 
although a car shouldnt fail an MOT with the ESP light on rather than fixing the problem the owner has just taped over the light. the esp doesnt come on in the display but in the clocks. low screen wash and others do!

Go with the 007p rather than the split r unless you have Chav tattoo'd on yourself some where!

Temp reading start with temp sendor/sensor first
 
although a car shouldnt fail an MOT with the ESP light on rather than fixing the problem the owner has just taped over the light. the esp doesnt come on in the display but in the clocks. low screen wash and others do!

Go with the 007p rather than the split r unless you have Chav tattoo'd on yourself some where!

Temp reading start with temp sendor/sensor first

so do you think the esp light is constantly on then? because obviously i dont know if its being turned on or off with the button.

temp reading.. its hitting 80* so it looks like its working, as oppose to it not working at all and staying all the way to the left if you follow what im trying to say, thats why i put it down to thermostat, as from searching the forum it seemed to be a common problem which is solved by replacing the stat.

i know split r gives a dumping sound, but im more inerested in the better DV rather than just the sound. I paid £111 for it yesterday, i could always try to take it back and get a 007p but i was advised if set up properly the split r is the better DV, but with some reading on the forum it seems thats not the case
 
Yes mate it is known to be done if there is a problem with the ESP that people tape it off! You will know straight away if its been open before because there is a sticker seal over the join line on the back of the IC! If its torn or not there then its been tamperd with.

As for the top of the LCD display, doubt it will work with aftermarket HU but should display warnings like

Low Washer Fluid
Low Brake Pads
Low Fuel
Bulb Failure etc...
 
I think the s3 fuel tank has two separate low points due to the prop shaft tunnel running under the centre of the car, so when the fuel level drops you efectively have two fuel reservoirs in your tank. The fuel pump is on one side of the tank. In order to get the fuel on the isolated side of the tank to the side with the fuel pump there is a secondary pump. If this secondary pump has failed then could this cause your fuel gauge to tell you that you still have 1/4 tank of fuel but your fuel pump cant pick it up??

...may be wrong
 
The top of the dis will display the radio settings, as you've got an aftermarket head unit it wont display anything. The top will also display warning symbols too, with the engine running if you press in the left hand side clock adjuster on the IC it will perform a system check and flash up all the symbols. If your fuel sender worked properly you would have a low fuel symbol displayed when your close to empty.

if your ESP light has been taped over and is staying on it can sometimes be the cars alignment being out.
 
ESP - Floor it in the wet from a standing start. Then press the ESP button and do it again. When it's on there'll be a sudden loss of power (like turning a swich off!) before traction is regained (apparently). At least then you'll know when it's on/off.

Temp gauge - I'd say thermostat. Got the same problem and my temp sender has been done already. It's on the list of things to do once I've finished painting the lounge/stairs/landing...
 
iv got a split r on mine with a newspeed filter and it sounds great and dumps nice 2
 
Im looking at getting a jetex filter, they seem well thought of
 
ive got a 99 apy without esp, just a rather vacant looking switch blank instead of the esp switch! someone hasnt put a esp switch in to replace the blank have they? pop the switch and see if there is wires attached to it
 
I will do, but if that was the case why would the esp light always be lit on the cluster?