Help please!!! I've killed my car. Engine ecu u the swanny!

scottie123

scottie123

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Really need some help People. I've got a very ill car.

Let me explain.

I have wired in some leds through relays, which are controlled by switched ignition and also dipped beam +

Wiring is simple and straight forward, and I cant see why it has caused the problem I have, but it must have done somehow.

Basically the fault I have is the engine ecu is now non-responsive. I cannot connect to it through vcds, and now my car wont start. It turns over , but that is it. It is also making other controllers give error codes, but I belive they are all effected because of the engine ecu being a crazy fool.

Though auto scan on vcds gives this '

Address 01: Engine
Cannot be reached

And other controllers are throwing errors up which state

1 Fault Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module
004 - No Signal/Communication

Now, I cannot connect to the ecu through vcds, so I have no way of trying to fix it.

Wiki says

Possible Causes
CAN-Databus Wiring/Connectors from/to Engine Control Module faulty
Fault(s) stored in Engine Control Module
Engine Control Module recently flashed or re-mapped
Possible Solutions
Check CAN-Databus Wiring/Connectors from/to Engine Control Module
Check Measuring Value Blocks (MVB)
Usually Measuring Value Blocks (MVB) 125+ show the current Communication Status

01314 - Engine Control Module: Check DTC Memory
Possible Causes
Fault(s) stored in Engine Control Module
Possible Solutions
Check Engine Control Module for Fault Codes
Special Notes
Engine Control Module stored a Code which influences other Control Modules Functionality.
To clear this Fault Code you will need to correct the Problem in the Engine Control Module first.


I haven't touched any of the wiring to the ecu,and I cant connect to it to check faults shown, so I am ********.

Really need some ideas people, as I am at a loss :(

I have checked all the basics like fuses etc,but nothing seems wrong. I have also removed the wiring I have done, but it is still the same.

I am hoping that the ecu isnt fried, but that is the only thing I can think it may be, but how it happened, I dont know.

Is the ecu a straight swap? Or will it require programming with either vcds or by dealer? And also quite importantly.....how much for one?

I appreciate any help and suggestions you guys can throw at me, As I have non left atm.

I'm tired and piddled off now, especially as I had to Walk home,which was an hours walk, as I was working on the car at my workplace:(
 
I can't help but think that by controlling LEDs via relays switched by the ignition that you've given the ECU some nasty pulses along the way.

You're going to need to have it checked out either by your dealer(costly,as they'll almost certainly hold the "invalid ECU" warranty up at you) or better,an independent who can either try flashing the ECU with stock settings or at least diagnose the problem.

A new ECU won't be cheap either.

Good luck.
 
That is what I am thinking also, but I was hoping that wasn't the case. I tried to wire in the relays so nothing was connected to the canbus powerwise, and only used The dipped beam + to purely switch the relay over.

This is how I wired it up.

Please excuse my crap ecd

100_0543.jpg
 
get a 2nd hand ecu (same part numbers ) and il get my mate sort it for ya.........at fraction of audis cost !
 
Not good mate! Did you try disconnecting the battery lead to reset everything? I can't remember how long you're supposed to do it for.

Hope you get it sorted :sadlike:
 
vw754 said:
get a 2nd hand ecu (same part numbers ) and il get my mate sort it for ya.........at fraction of audis cost !
Click to expand...

Cheers for the help so far, and cheers Staz, I'm absolutely gutted atm :(

Is there anyway I can confirm it is the ecu that is fried, apart from trying a new one? Need to get this sorted asap, as car not working = Very grumpy missus!
 
oh dear. At risk of insulting you, have you checked all of them including the ones in the engine bay? Im trying to understand your diagram, are the squiggly lines lights or resisters?
 
Khufu said:
oh dear. At risk of insulting you, have you checked all of them including the ones in the engine bay? Im trying to understand your diagram, are the squiggly lines lights or resisters?
Click to expand...

I'm not insulted at all fella :) When you say checked all of them, I presume you mean the fuses? If so, yes, with a fluke tester
 
Whoops Scottie, email me a good res of that schematic please as I cant see some of it that well.
 
You will need to reprogram the new ecu so it matches your key immo. But before you fork out reprogramming the ecu you are best plugging it in and seeing if you can reach it with vagcom. If you can it does confirm that your current ecu is dead.
 
I think your problem is one of the metal bolt in fuses connected on or near the battery and not the ecu,we had something like this on a A3 at work
 
Khufu said:
ah, gotcha. Have you tried as Staz said and disconnected battery for 30 mins?
Click to expand...

I did disconnect it , but it was more like 5 mins. I have left it disconnected though at work, so I will connect it back up in the morning and see what happens then.
 
NHN said:
Whoops Scottie, email me a good res of that schematic please as I cant see some of it that well.
Click to expand...

Sent :)

RobinA3 said:
You will need to reprogram the new ecu so it matches your key immo. But before you fork out reprogramming the ecu you are best plugging it in and seeing if you can reach it with vagcom. If you can it does confirm that your current ecu is dead.
Click to expand...

I am trying to source a new ecu currently, just to cover all options. Good idea with the ecu, and should confirm/low away the result!

leach76 said:
I think your problem is one of the metal bolt in fuses connected on or near the battery and not the ecu,we had something like this on a A3 at work
Click to expand...
If I got the right ones you mean, ie the 80amp 400amp etc ones on the front of the fuse board, then yes, when I eventually realised they were there :)

vw754 said:
link to my mate scottie,ive pmd you aswell,let me know how ya get on............VW AUDI IMMOBILISER REMOVE ECU EDC15 ME7 AIRBAG BYPASS on eBay (end time 27-Nov-10 22:47:51 GMT)
Click to expand...
Chap looks like he needs some feedback. As he is your mate though, its ok :)
 
scottie123 said:
Sent :)



I am trying to source a new ecu currently, just to cover all options. Good idea with the ecu, and should confirm/low away the result!

If I got the right ones you mean, ie the 80amp 400amp etc ones on the front of the fuse board, then yes, when I eventually realised they were there :)

Chap looks like he needs some feedback. As he is your mate though, its ok :)
Click to expand...
you will be in good hands mate, we (may i speak for all) are all enthusiasts and im sure we would only direct other members to people who know what they are doing and people we trust with our own cars:eyebrows:
 
scottie123 said:
So do I ..... I dont think Susan is going to be happy not having a car for to long .
Click to expand...

Well lets hope its not forcast heavy rain or really cold weather!!! Else you may well talk with a high pitched voice!!!

Hopefully guys on here will sort you out.
 
NHN said:
Whoops Scottie, email me a good res of that schematic please as I cant see some of it that well.
Click to expand...

RobinA3 said:
You will need to reprogram the new ecu so it matches your key immo. But before you fork out reprogramming the ecu you are best plugging it in and seeing if you can reach it with vagcom. If you can it does confirm that your current ecu is dead.
Click to expand...

leach76 said:
I think your problem is one of the metal bolt in fuses connected on or near the battery and not the ecu,we had something like this on a A3 at work
Click to expand...

Just need to find an ecu now. Anyone got one spare ? :)
 
**** scottie hope you sort this problem out soon budd im sure someone will be able to help you sort it out after all you are in the best forum !
 
update.

Ecu is out and sent for repair. Should be back before the end of the week.

The stupid tamperproof bolts that hold ont he protective cover are in the bin. (I mean the procedure for removing them say use a heatgun to melt locking agent on the screws, and then grab bolt head with moley's , and unscrew. Dicks, perhaps it would have been an idea to NOT put a ridge round the plate where the bolt head is, so you can actually grip the head. Anyway, mr drill soon sorted them tw4ts out. Rant over )

All being well should get me back to having a car that actually drives :)

So the million dollar question, how SHOULD I have wired it in? Any input appreciated!
 
Last edited:
They look the way forward to cure the problem, but I have no knowledge at all about them, so I going to need help lol!

I did ask dunk in a earlier post in that thread about what was required etc, but he hasnt replied. I will drop him a pm (hopefully he wont mind)

Cheers s3Alex for your help
 
So i assume you removed the "new" wiring to test the car as it was before you started. Only i see no mention of it

Can bus is a funny old thing
 
scottie123 said:
update.

Ecu is out and sent for repair. Should be back before the end of the week.

The stupid tamperproof bolts that hold ont he protective cover are in the bin. (I mean the procedure for removing them say use a heatgun to melt locking agent on the screws, and then grab bolt head with moley's , and unscrew. Dicks, perhaps it would have been an idea to NOT put a ridge round the plate where the bolt head is, so you can actually grip the head. Anyway, mr drill soon sorted them tw4ts out. Rant over )

All being well should get me back to having a car that actually drives :)

So the million dollar question, how SHOULD I have wired it in? Any input appreciated!
Click to expand...

Scottie -sorry to hear about your problem - hope it's soon sorted.

Not sure what type of LED' s you were trying to wire in and in what way you wanted them to work.

As you will be aware LED's use very little current and can be wired to work without the need for a relay at all unless you need sophisticated switching systems.

I have added some LED running lights by wiring direct to the fuse box next to the battery ( with an in-line fuse of course ) utilising one of the spare relay sockets in that box. The one I used is one that is energised when the ignition is switched on and which is de-energised shortly after switching off and the fan stopping.

I have utilised the DRL coding in VCDS to put the dip-beam headlights to 50% brightness and the LED running lights complement them, together with non canbus error sidelight led's.

Basically what this means is that with the car moving = LED sidelights + LED running lights + dip beam at 50% brightness.

This also means that running lights are on at all times - even when engine off with sidelights on. However that scenario never occurs these days as I never park anywhere where just sidelights are required.

Sorry for the ramble but I did contemplate using a relay to switch depending on state of main car lights but decided to go the route I did as it was simple and legal.

I do hope you get sorted soon.

Cheers :beerchug:
 
Byzan A4 said:
So i assume you removed the "new" wiring to test the car as it was before you started. Only i see no mention of it

Can bus is a funny old thing
Click to expand...

Yes byzan, the first thing I did when the car would start was rip out what I had put in, and it was still the same. I have come to the conclusion that canbus is satans child :)

mike foster said:
Scottie -sorry to hear about your problem - hope it's soon sorted.

Not sure what type of LED' s you were trying to wire in and in what way you wanted them to work.

As you will be aware LED's use very little current and can be wired to work without the need for a relay at all unless you need sophisticated switching systems.

I have added some LED running lights by wiring direct to the fuse box next to the battery ( with an in-line fuse of course ) utilising one of the spare relay sockets in that box. The one I used is one that is energised when the ignition is switched on and which is de-energised shortly after switching off and the fan stopping.

I have utilised the DRL coding in VCDS to put the dip-beam headlights to 50% brightness and the LED running lights complement them, together with non canbus error sidelight led's.

Basically what this means is that with the car moving = LED sidelights + LED running lights + dip beam at 50% brightness.

This also means that running lights are on at all times - even when engine off with sidelights on. However that scenario never occurs these days as I never park anywhere where just sidelights are required.

Sorry for the ramble but I did contemplate using a relay to switch depending on state of main car lights but decided to go the route I did as it was simple and legal.

I do hope you get sorted soon.

Cheers :beerchug:
Click to expand...

Cheers mike

The leds I am trying to run I believe are luxeon rebels. They are pcb mounted and use a seperate power supply to run them.

The idea with my circuit was that the leds would be on at full brightness when ignition circuit is on, and then they would go to half power when the headlights are turned on, as they would be to bright at full power for night time use. I have now found out though that they will ot run at anything under 9v, so the dimming is now not an option, so will have to be off at night.

I did originally wire in the leds to my side lights, but the current draw was to low, and gave a bulb out warning. I then added the actual sidelight bulb into the circuit again, and the bulb error went, but I found that when the engine was on, the leds would go beserk, and flash/ strobe , and react to outputs from the car ie when braking they would go brighter, etc. I can only guess the are hyper sensitive and where reacting to canbus signals .

Man, why is nothing ever easy. :)
 
You can reduce the brightness and still retain the full 12 volts.

It requires a small circuit which reduces the current available (not voltage) by switching the power on and off at pre-determined intervals. It 'pulses' the voltage and determines the light output based on the speed and duration of the pulse.

Basically the same idea as a normal dimmer switch. A timer chip and switching transistor are used together with a bit of control circuitry. This is a much safer way of dimming and is the method used by Audi when choosing to dim the DRL's in the ecu.

However, if your LED's have a separate power supply provided with them then it is likely to be difficult, if not impossible, to alter them.

Just an idea - have you thought of switching a large value (wattage) resistor into the circuit in parallel to dim them. The resistor, value to be determined by experiment, would in theory take some of the current available and dim the leds. I think ?!!!
 
Last edited:
hmmmmmm another update.

My ecu has been processed and tested.


No faults found.........Now wtf do I do ?!!!!!!!!!

arghhhhh I feel the grip on my testicles getting tighter by the minute fromt he missus......
 
Check your central electronics unit, its above your accelerator pedal (black box with relays plugged into it) This is a major component in the cars electronic systems and could be damaged.
 
can only be central electrics or damaged woring then buddy, providing your ecu is all written properly
 
this is the scan results when the central electrics was scanned


Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 8P0-907-279-23-H.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 907 279 C HW: 8P0 907 279 C
Component: Bordnetz-SG H34 0301
Revision: 00H34000 Serial number: 00000001338677
Coding: E5885F22B214100000000000240000000001FE0F5C
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 08192
VCID: 3D756F341D03

Part No: 8P2 955 119 B
Component: Wischer AU350 H01 0130
Coding: 00062736
Shop #: WSC 06314

Part No: 4E0 910 557
Component: REGENLICHTSENSORH10 0050
Coding: 00150573
Shop #: WSC 06314

1 Fault Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module
004 - No Signal/Communication
 
Ok, so the ECU is ok....

I think you need to get the car back to standard.

Once you know the cars ok, if you decide you still want to carry on, you can from there.

i cant really give any input on the fix as i dont understand BUS works on cars (if anyone has any info ill have a look and go from there)
 
Matt_ said:
Ok, so the ECU is ok....

I think you need to get the car back to standard.

Once you know the cars ok, if you decide you still want to carry on, you can from there.

i cant really give any input on the fix as i dont understand BUS works on cars (if anyone has any info ill have a look and go from there)
Click to expand...


scottie123 said:
1 Fault Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module
004 - No Signal/Communication
Click to expand...

Surely this indicates a fault in either the comms or the ECU?
 
Something like that in a nutshell there was a break in comms its fixed now though
 
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