Stage 2+ low figures

gynads

Registered User
Joined
Oct 10, 2009
Messages
333
Reaction score
24
Points
18
Location
NULL
with the following

Milltek TBE non resonated
Autotech HPFP
RS4 FPR
EVOMS cai
THS intercooler

my car made 327bhp and 350 lb/ft . I have posted on another forum as some of you may already of seen. Was just seeing if any of you guys on here have any input regarding this seemingly low figure and the setting of Dyno Dynamics rolling roads etc?
 
If thats a true figure i wouldnt say it was low. I think others get a slightly optomistc figure sometimes.
 
Seconded. Look at the WHP instead, dyno error, diff conditions, all make a huge difference. Your torque is strong but peak power a bit low but go on a different day and much get a much higer figure. Was that on Revo?
 
sorry, yeah Revo stage2+ software. Most people are quoting 360/360 odd, without the intercooler?
I haven't driven the car yet as im still offshore till Wednesday, but I'm sure I will be impressed.
 
To be honest i think thats fine, the torque will be excellent and i doubt you would notice the lower bhp unless you are on the rev limiter but as Akash says, another set of rollers might well give you a higher or lower reading anyway..
 
How effective was the cooling fan set up on the RR? My car got 341bhp last year on a 2wd RR (not a DD Rolling Road), with the Haldex controller unplugged, but I was not running intercooler or 4 bar FPR. I thought my figs were optimistic.

Are the plugs you are running the NGK Iridium 7's or OEM's, and what Revo settings are you running?
 
How effective was the cooling fan set up on the RR? My car got 341bhp last year on a 2wd RR (not a DD Rolling Road), with the Haldex controller unplugged, but I was not running intercooler or 4 bar FPR. I thought my figs were optimistic.

Are the plugs you are running the NGK Iridium 7's or OEM's, and what Revo settings are you running?

Alright Warren, Im not sure of the fan effeciency, although it is a big noisy ******! I'm running Denso IK24 plugs , and not sure of the B,T,F settings yet (i have asked them to forward me the graph and relevant settings)
 
Alright Warren, Im not sure of the fan effeciency, although it is a big noisy ******! I'm running Denso IK24 plugs , and not sure of the B,T,F settings yet (i have asked them to forward me the graph and relevant settings)

Be interesting to see what BTF figs you are running. Recent drops in ambient air temps of around 10 degrees have seen my car come to life. The other morning at 4 degrees it felt like it was running stage 3 by comparison to usual!

I am due to take mine to do some logs on it today as I think the Revision D Diverter Valve may be on the way out, it's making some strange noises when you wouldn't expect it to, and I'm tempted to try the Forge again as it doesn't seem to be holding out at boost 9 that well (boost seems inconsistent). Take it you don't have VCDS cable (your not based anywhere near M4 corridor are you?).
 
Be interesting to see what BTF figs you are running. Recent drops in ambient air temps of around 10 degrees have seen my car come to life. The other morning at 4 degrees it felt like it was running stage 3 by comparison to usual!

I am due to take mine to do some logs on it today as I think the Revision D Diverter Valve may be on the way out, it's making some strange noises when you wouldn't expect it to, and I'm tempted to try the Forge again as it doesn't seem to be holding out at boost 9 that well (boost seems inconsistent). Take it you don't have VCDS cable (your not based anywhere near M4 corridor are you?).

I do have the VCDS cable , but have never done any logging. I had a play but was unsure of which bits to log etc. Did you find an improvement using the Forge DV over the OE one? Im in Lincolnshire buddy im afraid!
 
Be interesting to see what BTF figs you are running. Recent drops in ambient air temps of around 10 degrees have seen my car come to life. The other morning at 4 degrees it felt like it was running stage 3 by comparison to usual!

I am due to take mine to do some logs on it today as I think the Revision D Diverter Valve may be on the way out, it's making some strange noises when you wouldn't expect it to, and I'm tempted to try the Forge again as it doesn't seem to be holding out at boost 9 that well (boost seems inconsistent). Take it you don't have VCDS cable (your not based anywhere near M4 corridor are you?).

I take it on setting 9 for boost in the past it has held it? a few of the revo cars on the rollers at statller were boosting/peaking early and losing power top end even the car felt quicker,as they dropped down the settings the cars were making a lot better power.
Mine seems to be struggling on pick up bottom end as if its holding back lower on the rev range, i was wondering if that maybe plugs or something else like maf etc but not sure if these have maf problems,what plugs do you people recommend even though mine isnt an S3?
 
I take it on setting 9 for boost in the past it has held it? a few of the revo cars on the rollers at statller were boosting/peaking early and losing power top end even the car felt quicker,as they dropped down the settings the cars were making a lot better power.
Mine seems to be struggling on pick up bottom end as if its holding back lower on the rev range, i was wondering if that maybe plugs or something else like maf etc but not sure if these have maf problems,what plugs do you people recommend even though mine isnt an S3?
Denso or NGK Iridium Range. Mine runs much better with these, on mainly at the top end. Mine is super strong at low revs and although yours isnt a 'stage2' GIAC map it should be strong low down as well, due to the quick spool of the KO3.
 
Last edited:
I take it on setting 9 for boost in the past it has held it? a few of the revo cars on the rollers at statller were boosting/peaking early and losing power top end even the car felt quicker,as they dropped down the settings the cars were making a lot better power.
Mine seems to be struggling on pick up bottom end as if its holding back lower on the rev range, i was wondering if that maybe plugs or something else like maf etc but not sure if these have maf problems,what plugs do you people recommend even though mine isnt an S3?

I chnaged mine from OEM to Denso iridium IK24's, these were a great improvement , especially lower down. Not sure what you would run on yours? possibly the Ik 22's
 
Not really up on 2v 4 wheel drive rollers but how can you get an accurate figure on 2 wheel rollers with haldex disconnected ? surely that is just taking the drive shaft and diff for 2 wheels out of the equation so it will read high ?
 
hi there mate

I have similar mods to you and I am making 215-220kw at the wheels which is about 300 wheel horse power. (220kw on a hub dyno and 215 on a rolling dyno which seeems pretty consistent)

So at the crank that equates to about 285kw at the crank or 387bhp at the crank

That seems to be about the upper limits of the tune. I dont have an intercooler upgrade or anything. Just full exhaust, fuel pumps, CAI.

The tune makes the car pretty dam fast!!!! Check out vids of my car in full sprint mode!

YouTube - Audi S3 0-100km/h in 4 sec!
YouTube - Audi S3 vs the challengers!

sorry, yeah Revo stage2+ software. Most people are quoting 360/360 odd, without the intercooler?
I haven't driven the car yet as im still offshore till Wednesday, but I'm sure I will be impressed.
 
alot of tuners disconnect the haldex controller and do power readings as a 2wd.

You can actually get a far more accurate idea of power figures at the crank because you remove some of the drive train loss variables.

By bypassing the haldex controllers you are removing drive train loss variables...

typically 2wd cars will have better power readings on the dyno due to less drive train loss through the 4wd system! :)

Not really up on 2v 4 wheel drive rollers but how can you get an accurate figure on 2 wheel rollers with haldex disconnected ? surely that is just taking the drive shaft and diff for 2 wheels out of the equation so it will read high ?
 
Cheers Robby, seems a bit pointless unless you are going to disconect the haldex on the road as well. Unless you are doing comparison engine runs and tuning on the bench i cant see a lot of point in trying to get crank figures on the RR
 
I take it on setting 9 for boost in the past it has held it? a few of the revo cars on the rollers at statller were boosting/peaking early and losing power top end even the car felt quicker,as they dropped down the settings the cars were making a lot better power.
Mine seems to be struggling on pick up bottom end as if its holding back lower on the rev range, i was wondering if that maybe plugs or something else like maf etc but not sure if these have maf problems,what plugs do you people recommend even though mine isnt an S3?

Mine seems better on B8-T5-F6, as soon as I go boost 9 the car seems a touch stuttery at the top end.
I have to say that personal opinion is that whilst the CAI systems in conjunction with TBE add enormously to the top end, I do feel bottom end around town drivability is slightly compromised, maybe due to the reduced back pressure in the system. Over three figures speeds on the Ring, the car just kept pulling (unlike with the OEM intake), but just kicking around town it does feel laggier, but its a worthwhile trade off for the extra grunt.
NGK 7's sit under the bonnet. Tried 8's and they were too cold, just glazed as they weren't burning off the excess fuel with some of the short journeys I was doing. At 8k they were misfiring heavily, so 7's back in.

Had to disconnect Haldex as the RR I was using were 2wd rollers at Storm Developments. Wheels were wet and it was a cold day so we were having to sit on the wings of he car to keep the wheels from spinning on the rollers! Never a great believer that RR figures translate into a great driving experience, but more a health check against other cars.
 
alot of tuners disconnect the haldex controller and do power readings as a 2wd.

You can actually get a far more accurate idea of power figures at the crank because you remove some of the drive train loss variables.

By bypassing the haldex controllers you are removing drive train loss variables...



typically 2wd cars will have better power readings on the dyno due to less drive train loss through the 4wd system! :)
Or........you could just look at the WHP figure like I keep banging on as that's what is directly measured and what is actually going to the road! Ie Much more relevant.
 
Mine seems better on B8-T5-F6, as soon as I go boost 9 the car seems a touch stuttery at the top end.
I have to say that personal opinion is that whilst the CAI systems in conjunction with TBE add enormously to the top end, I do feel bottom end around town drivability is slightly compromised, maybe due to the reduced back pressure in the system. Over three figures speeds on the Ring, the car just kept pulling (unlike with the OEM intake), but just kicking around town it does feel laggier, but its a worthwhile trade off for the extra grunt.
NGK 7's sit under the bonnet. Tried 8's and they were too cold, just glazed as they weren't burning off the excess fuel with some of the short journeys I was doing. At 8k they were misfiring heavily, so 7's back in.

Had to disconnect Haldex as the RR I was using were 2wd rollers at Storm Developments. Wheels were wet and it was a cold day so we were having to sit on the wings of he car to keep the wheels from spinning on the rollers! Never a great believer that RR figures translate into a great driving experience, but more a health check against other cars.


Having a more restrictive intake such your OEM airbox is actually good for low down performance. In the 90s manufacturers such as Mercedes started using variable lentgh intact tracts to optimise airflow over the entire RPM range.
At low revs flaps would typically route air through a longer more complex course creating turbulence and swirling in the incoming air helping it to mix much better with the fuel on injection giving better low RPM performance.
At high revs these flaps open up giving the straightest most direct route and less restriction.

Mercedes first used these on their M113 V8 engine family and got amazing low-mid range flexibility similar to or even better then that of a turbocharged engine.

Many american V8s still lack this feature and even if you look at the LS1 small block family or Chrylser HEMIs there low rev torque and top end is quite poor in comparison to all the Euro V8s despite theire huge 5.7L + capacities, and this is down to lack of VVT /variable intakes and only 2valves/cyl pushrod valvtrain.

When we fit a fixed, non -variable low restriction intake we will always loose some of this low RPM efficiency, but as you mention the high RPM gains and sound are more then worth it.
 
Last edited:
On the graph you have power and torque after the exhaust was on, then the intercooler then stage 2+ last of all

revograph.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/gynads/revograph.jpg