2.5 Head gasket and cambelt change

A4 nut

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Hi all does any one out there have any details about the head gasket, cam replacment and cam belt (Basically a top end rebuild) on a 2.5 tdi AYM engine ive sent the heads off for skimming and pressure test and have bought new cams, head gaskets, cam belt kit, water pump everything you need for the job it is totally stripped down bumpers and rads out to make it easer to work on. My problem is that there is hardly any info on this i bought a manual for this engine the only one i could get but it is in french so stuck! Does any one have elsawin or similar that could help :shrug:
 
Tell me exactly what it is you need and I'll see what I can do.
 
Head bolt torque settings, sequence and how to set tdc on the crank but any rebuild info will help!
 
To be honest there's too much here for it to be practicable for me to post it all. If you're doing the job yourself it's well worth investing a fiver into a copy. But here the head bolt settings/torques:

head.jpg
 
Your right about investing a fiver for elsawin but ive done this a couple of times and all ive got in return is a limited version that wasted space on my hard dirve. what i could do with is a link or a pm to a seller of a quality version.
 
send a pm. to adamss24 on here, ive just had him do all belts,thermostat and waterpump on mine and he can put these 2.5's together with his eyes shut. Hes a very helpfull bloke.
 
send a pm. to adamss24 on here, ive just had him do all belts,thermostat and waterpump on mine and he can put these 2.5's together with his eyes shut. Hes a very helpfull bloke.
Thanks for the heads-up's Sam, i take-it that your avant its running fine since the cambelt ! Anyway, i would not try to rebuild the engine without propper locking tools and its not as easy as it looks. Get new O-rings for the coolant pipes wich go in the heads and make shure you lock the crank at TDC. Also you will need Vag-com to time the pump properly and make shure you replace the thermostat once the engine is in pieces. The heads should not have been skimmed at all as there are not thick gaskets available for them engines-check how many holes your existing gaskets were.
 
Here's a few pics i took when i changed your car's cambelt:
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a4v6tdi8.jpg

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a4v6tdi4.jpg

a4v6tdi5.jpg

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a4v6tdi7.jpg

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a4v6tdi10.jpg
 
Thank for the pics is the wire metal ring above left of the crank pulley your locking tool? i have a new thermostat and aux belts, also i have pro locking tools and vag com so nearly there, i have built a few engines in my time but not any of these quad cammers so your help is much apreaciated shame i did not post this earlier as would not have had the head skimmed but i did speak to 2 engine workshops they gave it the ok and told me i could still use the same 2 dot head gasket?
 
[/im brave, but not that brave yet! QUOTE]
More stupidity i think lol,i think im competent definiatley confident cant wait to se the out come, im going to start posting pics work starts in the morning its do or die.
 
Another thing how do you do the wrap around quote thingy

Press the "Reply with quote button" and be careful not to delete any of the brackets. It should read:

[quote = posters name; random number]QUOTED TEXT[/ quote]

(without the spaces)
 
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Thank for the pics is the wire metal ring above left of the crank pulley your locking tool? i have a new thermostat and aux belts, also i have pro locking tools and vag com so nearly there, i have built a few engines in my time but not any of these quad cammers so your help is much apreaciated shame i did not post this earlier as would not have had the head skimmed but i did speak to 2 engine workshops they gave it the ok and told me i could still use the same 2 dot head gasket?

If they skimmed the head then i would use the next 3 hole head gasket. Also make shure you get a good quality gasket like Victor Reinz, Elring or Goetze. New headbolts are a must. The wire thingy is just the pin to lock the vibration damper in place...I will take a picture of the locking tools asap...
 
I will also check and replace if neccessary all rocker fingers, lifters and trust pads on each head while its in bits. Chances are that they took all the valves off prior skimming so i suppose at least they replaced the smoke oil seals. Its not an easy job but setting the cams in phase can be a bitch ! I know them engines like the back of me hand and while overengineered they do offer a challenge every time i work on them. I can also rebuild it without the locking tools but i would not chance it as a novice. Also make shure you wont be tired when working on the car as then you make the most mistakes, i left the locking pin in a injector pump once while cranking the engine wich damaged the pump housing ! Very costly mistake as the pump housing cost a few bobs and nobody will accept a damaged core !
 
Cheers ive also bought fingers lifters and thrust pads and the heads have had new seals fitted so work starts now!
 
Just a couple of pictures of how work is going
DSC00234.jpg


next thing to do is now find tdc and lock the crank in position
DSC00237.jpg
 
crank pin hole is on the n/s of the engine above the upper sump line. theres a little plastic plug with a 10mm bolt holding it in. should really have locked it up before stripping it tbh.

you seem like your having fun tho!
 
You did a lot of un-necessary work to be honest but its better that way as it makes your life easier. I would not have taken the coolant hard lines off as there is just about enough room to maneuvre the heads without taking them off. They are prone to leak if disturbed and i found the new gaskets VAG supply are'nt the same quality as the ones they replace. Top dead centre its on cyl 3 (left hand side as you looka at the engine by the flywheel) and you can use a long rod/wooden skewer/screwdriver trough the injector port- to determine TDC-if the crank locking tool not available. The camshaft locking tools can be made of a suitable piece of metal ground to fit the slots... Make shure the puleys are taut on the cams so they can turn but not tilt prior tightening and you turn the engine by hand a good handfull of times before atempting to start. Also make shure you tighten the plastic covers holding bolts as i've just rebuilt the engine of a mates passat after one bolt took the camshaft pulley off as it came undone !
 
pump belt had shed its teeth and did not know the condition of the cambelt so stripped as was, time is not limited so stripped the lot it does make my life easier, i have the locking tools so will be setting without the cams in and ive roughly set tdc by sight before bolting down the heads all is going well so far thanks for your input to save me any time is the locking tool the threaded shaft with the chamfer on the end that screws in.
 
Nice work, I admire you!

I would have done the same, probably taken more off than was strictly necessary, but if it's your first time of doing it, and time is on your side then why not. It will give you a better understanding for next time around!
 
Just a couple of pictures of how work is going
DSC00234.jpg


next thing to do is now find tdc and lock the crank in position
DSC00237.jpg

How did you get the cylinderhead ont the right side on the picture off? Its giving me a hard time.
 

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