No wonder I thought it was shyte

MIKE GTR

MIKE GTR

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Well suppose I should really be posting this with my cap in hand after my previous comments over the S3, but to cut a long story short - last Friday I went to AMD to have my car remaped to stage 2 revo. Straight away before my car was on the dyno they told me i'd be at least 20brake down because I use std unleaded - I wasn't too impressed with this excuse before it had even seen the dyno, but nonetheless I expected it to be around the 250 mark - first power run............. 225bhp 260lbft torque!! Well needless to say I was fairly downbeat - the operator said something was definately wrong, to which my answer was that EVERYTHING was new. So he loaded the STG 2 revo and it made 230bhp with 274lbft torque -not bad for £120!!

However, it turns out i've got boost leaking all over the place under the inlet, so now i've got the extra expense of that.

Maybe people will understand my previous comments about the car being sh1t slow now, but at least I can finally appease others comments when they told me it wasnt that bad.

Watch this space.

BTW it still gives no feedback thru the steering lol ;)
 
I have boost leaks under my inlet too, is there any way of replacing the pipework under there with different stuff or will i need to go to the stealers to get replacement parts?
 
I've no idea, my mate is a mech at Audi maindealers and he's gonna use his discount for me, but the pipes are something ridiculous like £40 each!
 
i may have to look into that, i didnt realise it would affect performance so much!
 
Does the forge kit include all the pipes under the manifold?

Must admit I'm still a little dubious as to the effects, especially with my torque figure, but we'll see once its done
 
audi upgrades
Glad to see a happier Mike.... I was wondering why you thought it was so slow.

Glad you're on the way to getting it sorted :)
 
tbh mate i dunno. i know SFS do complete kits for everything. You just say what you need. normally a bit cheaper than forge too
 
Mike, when you say leaking under the inlet, what are we talking about here? The vac hoses under there?

If that's the case, have a think about doing the N249 bypass. Most of those hoses aren't required anyway, and IMO, they just increase the possibility of leaks.

Save yourself some monies....
 
AMD done a leak test, although my mate is getting a smoke tester from work to see exactly where they are.

I've already done the bypass thingy - infact i've done everything I can to make it 290ish brake - we'll see what happens.

Welly, don't think i'll ever be happy lol, only reason I got it remapped was to make sure it was running safe
 
MIKE GTR said:
AMD done a leak test, although my mate is getting a smoke tester from work to see exactly where they are.

I've already done the bypass thingy - infact i've done everything I can to make it 290ish brake - we'll see what happens.

Welly, don't think i'll ever be happy lol, only reason I got it remapped was to make sure it was running safe
Click to expand...

What hoses are we talking about then, the breather hoses? They are expensive from main dealer, in fact a rip off IMO.
 
i know this isnt my thread but... there is some sort of valve under the inlet where im getting a leak from. are these expensive or is there any replacements?
 
Yeah, there is a breather hose from the underside of the inlet manifold down a one way valve. This is a common one for either a split hose, or a cream crackered one way valve.
 
is there a guide on simplifying this system? i know paul mentioned he did it in his build? was it covered in the catch can buy? if there is a guide that would help alot of people, as i personally wouldnt want to **** it up.
 
audi upgrades
i'd suggest doing away with the whole PCV system and installing a catch tank. that way you avoid any chance of a PCV leak.

the PCV leak I had on my old A3 was HUGE and cost me over 20bhp!
 
superkarl said:
is there a guide on simplifying this system? i know paul mentioned he did it in his build? was it covered in the catch can buy? if there is a guide that would help alot of people, as i personally wouldnt want to **** it up.
Click to expand...

I'm sure there is somewhere - I'll have a hunt about in a bit.
 
I've done, and im sure alot of others, the n249 bypass, but thats only a small part. I just searched 'pcv system' and there isnt a thread dedicated to it. Il have a dig in tuftys build later though to start, he's always helpful for things like this. It may take alot of digging. in uni at the min so cant really do it now. I just don't want to tackle it not knowing exactly what im doing, it could end up worse. The catch can buy thread gets a little confusing with all the different posts.
 
superkarl said:
I've done, and im sure alot of others, the n249 bypass, but thats only a small part. I just searched 'pcv system' and there isnt a thread dedicated to it. Il have a dig in tuftys build later though to start, he's always helpful for things like this. It may take alot of digging. in uni at the min so cant really do it now. I just don't want to tackle it not knowing exactly what im doing, it could end up worse. The catch can buy thread gets a little confusing with all the different posts.
Click to expand...

Problem is that whole system is different on the AMK/BAM from the APY. I know the APY's very well, but detailed knowledge of the AMK/BAM escapes me...
 
AMK is more complex welly as you've got a secondary air pump to deal with and the N112.

The N249 bypass and PCV simplification really arn't that hard at all, but to be honest, it's not something you can get your head around before you start. You just need to work out what you're removing, remove it, then use the spare pipe work you're left with to replumb the system in such a way that it'll all work and everything is sealed up.

Get stuck in and it'll all become clear!
 
On AMK/BAM there is no N112 or SAI... simplification of the PCV/Vac system is quite easy... on the inlet mani there are 4 outlets... 2 x small ones underneath over the alternator, 1 goes to the FPR and the other to the N249/DV... underneath the mani in the middle there is a larger one that goes to the 'air pump' (Y shaped valve) and also connects to the angled outlet on the side of the mani opposite the TB where that crappy 'V' hose is...

The method I used to simplify this all is.... angled outlet on the end goes direct to the servo pipe using a check valve so it won't see boost only vacuum... 1 x small outlet to the FPR (as normal) the second small outlet feeds my boost gauge (you can block this off if you don't have a boost gauge)... the larger outlet in the middle goes to my DV directly bypassing the N249 and the vacuum store stuff.... you may need to get a reducing plastic joiner if running a std DV or 007p as the outlet is quite large and the DV inlet is much smaller.... bin 90% of the pipe work you remove (use a check valve from this for the servo and separate the straight piece of pip joined to the 'V' hose on the end to use as a joiner...)... under the mani you will see where the PCV hoses are... an outlet from the 'Y' valve goes to the PCV valve situated in a 'T' shaped rubber hose... just block the top of that valve off (not the 'Y' one, bin that) and jobs done...

At the end of it you will still have a working PCV and just 3 pipes under the mani doing what they should with the servo getting a dedicated feed from the end outlet...

Leave the N259 electrically connected but you can remove all the pipes and the vacuum store and there you have it...

<tuffty/>
 
^^ As above, the SAI system and associated N112 were only on the APY engine. It was ditched for the later S3 engines - due to being crap.

AMK ad BAM are SAI free. :)
 
I know I'm going to sound like a complete **** but have you got any pictures I can follow please Paul ( just in case I get a bit to carried away with Harry the Hatchet and cut too much of the wrong pipe off)
 
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