2.0 T FSI Quattro - When does the turbo spin?

[Star]

Hey all,

Have a 2006 petrol sportback version of the above titled car.

First car I have owned that was less than about 15 years old when I bought it 6 months ago. I was expecting big things but I came from a 2.0 Mk3 Golf GTI so the performance boost was not as noticeable as I hoped.

First turbo, car, so I was wondering when the turbo kicks in (RPM range) and would I even notice it audibly or under the foot or would it be smooth and silent? It's a stock car, so no dump valves etc ;-).

I would not say the car was sluggish, but I do have the 1st > 2nd gear problem I have read about where it's hard to get a quick smooth change, and sometimes it struggles for a few seconds in a gear and then the power comes on all at once (low RPM, town driving).

It;s done 60,000 and the dash is now counting down the day until it's service. Ran it on 95 for a about 10 tanks before realising it was a nicer car and putting in 98 recently.

Thanks

S

 

[akash_sky1]

First of all this high compression 10.5:1 turbo engine really needs high octane fuel all the time, don't put 95 RON in there.

The 2.0T quattro is a fair bit heavier then the mk5 GTI and FWD version which blunts its performance a bit but does help get great launches even on a soaking road. It also has lower gearing then the FWD to compensate for its extra weight.
The engine /gearbox mounts are quite soft and when booting it it can be hard to shift quickly, im thinking about uprated poly mounts for mine my GIAC tuner can fit them quite cheap- Stattler in Sheffield.

The KO3 on this car is quite a small turbo and combined with the fact the engine runs high compression/low boost with OEM map there's less of a kick wen the turbo comes in. On full throttle though it will boost from just under 2000 rpm. There's plenty of scope for more boost as the OEM map limits boost in the mid range to give a nice flat torque plateaue from 1900-5000 rpm.
So the slightly portly weight of the car combined with the flexible non- peaky nature of the engine is why it probably feels abit less perky then you'd expect, in standard form.

 

[Star]

Hey akash,

Thanks for the response. Really useful.

Yeah my bad on the fuel - just habit, but I've realised the error of my ways. It was a Mk3 Golf that I have come from, not the Mk5.

I live in Switzerland, so the heavier Quattro is a must for the winter.

What would the effect of the lower gearing be on average driving?

 

[akash_sky1]

I find you keep it between 50-70 mph you can still get good economy but above 75 mph on the motorway its hard to get over 30 mpg. Sorry you'll have to convert that into metric. But maybe 3-5% difference in economy if your crusing over 130 KPH compared to a FWD.

On my sedate drive to work however I can get 40 MPG which means I can get 400 MILES on a tank, even with a little bit of hard driving in between.
I think the added traction of quattro is well worth the weight penalty in bad weather- for fast driving and for safety, and now matter how much you tune it up it will get the power down no problem.

 

[Star]

Brit expat, recently moved, so still tend to think in Miles

Thanks.

German car imported - pristine. It's due it's service, and it'll only be it's 3rd major service according to the log book. Going to try and find an official Audi service centre, but have a feeling it will be expensive for it's service (e.g £600).

According to the UK website, the cars can be on variable or t&d servicing. As my dashboard is telling me I need one, does that mean it's on variable and the sensor is picking it up per the below? I does say that it's due in 11 days or 3500 kms, which suggests t&d.

"There is a choice between time and distance servicing and variable servicing. Please consult with your Audi Centre to determine which servicing programme best meets your needs. For a vehicle being serviced according to time and distance, services will be required at fixed intervals. Where variable servicing is chosen, sensors located within your engine and other working components of the vehicle will inform you when servicing is required."

 

[RobinA3]

You should feel the turbo 'shove' at about 2000rpm, if you can't feel it then i would check that the engine is running ok, its not uncommon for the diverter valve on the turbo to have a split diaphram on it which does not allow the turbo to boost properly.

 

[Stev3n]

Akash how do you manage to get 40mpg? I have only seen it once and that's when the girlfriend was doing 40mph in 6th! I normally only get 26ish and I don't drive that hard.
I do however only ever use 95ron, do you believe 97ron makes that much of a difference? I was always told unless your engine is specifically tuned for 97 it doesn't have much effect.

 

[xnox202]

Umm no. It was never a requirement to run more than RON 95. The owner book only mentions that the RON 95 is the minimum fuel grade required for the car. As far as fuel consumption is concerned, I supposed they're almost identical. Modern cars like ours do ****** ignition timing and work adequately with regular gas.

Doing the math and your driving behaviour will sum up the fuel consumption cost. Of course spirited driving will only hurt your MPGs.

 

[akash_sky1]

Akash how do you manage to get 40mpg? I have only seen it once and that's when the girlfriend was doing 40mph in 6th! I normally only get 26ish and I don't drive that hard.
I do however only ever use 95ron, do you believe 97ron makes that much of a difference? I was always told unless your engine is specifically tuned for 97 it doesn't have much effect.

I used to drive a 33mile each way commute to work, with cruise set at 50mph or 40 mph for about 10 miles of that in average speed cameras.
Was a nightmare! But with cruise set at those speeds and very careful application of throttle when moving off I can get 40 mpg every day, easily, you just need to drive for some time to get it up to that level!
And thats whether driving with standard map or on GIAC.
However when i first got the car and used 95 RON and driving exactly the same route and style I would only get about 33 mpg at best using normal unleaded. Those higher figures are for v-power which is all I use now.

My overall Mpg was 32.4 since May, but fell to 31.0 yesterday after a 200 mile blast round some amazing roads, and that tanks almost empty now! well worth it though.

 

[akash_sky1]

Umm no. It was never a requirement to run more than RON 95. The owner book only mentions that the RON 95 is the minimum fuel grade required for the car. As far as fuel consumption is concerned, I supposed they're almost identical. Modern cars like ours do ****** ignition timing and work adequately with regular gas.

Doing the math and your driving behaviour will sum up the fuel consumption cost. Of course spirited driving will only hurt your MPGs.

I have about 13 000 miles of commuting since November and can say 100% that on shell v-power whether running standard map or GIAC i get 5-6 mpg better at a 40-50 mph cruise then on regular 95 RON.
A high compression, turbo engine like this may run on 95 RON but will always be more economical and powerful on higher octance without having to be tuned for it.

 

[Harrelson]

Shell v power burns cleaner too. Ive never put anything else in my car since new and everytime i wash it i run my finger into the exhaust and still no soot!

 

[Stev3n]

Well I switched to esso super unleaded today so will see how the other halfs commute goes this week, it's only 97 vs shell v-power 99 but will be interesting to see the results.

 

[akash_sky1]

Esso is lame as well. Shell V Power is the best, end of! (excluding BP 102 of course! but you need a race map to run on that)

 

[Star]

Thanks all for the useful info.

I only have a choice of 95 or 98 in my local garages. Might have to seek out a Shell and try the 99 vpower. The filler cap I have says 95/98 RON/ROZ, so I presume there is no issues putting 99 in it? Silly question perhaps but worth me asking!

I really don't feel a shove from the turbo. If I boot it from standing the revs are up to 2k and above so quickly it's hard to separate the power experienced booting it in 1st from a turbo shove. If I boot it in any gear full throttle I just feel a gradual power increase.

I'll get the valve checked out when I get it serviced - presumably it;s not something simple I can check myself (bear in mind what you guys would call a simple job would be difficult for me ).

One more thing...I stick the car in 6th on the motorway and don;t generally take it out - as this is my first 6 gear car, I am simply presuming that everything I did with 5th, I simply do with 6th now. Any other tips for proper 6 gear driving?

 

[Stev3n]

Well will see how the esso stuff goes, the garage is much closer than shell so would be a pain to drive all that way every time. Also my other half drives the car more than me and it was bad enough asking her to remember to put 97 in let alone drive all the way to a shell garage

 

[Stev3n]

So after a week on esso 97 definitely noticing slightly better economy. Unfortunately my nearest shell garage is 11miles away so won't be using V-Power. That leaves me with esso, bp, sainsburys, tescos & morrisons. Does anyone have an opinion on who from that does 'the best' super unleaded?

 

[JamesBaby]

I think Tesco 'Momentum' 99 would be your best bet. It's what i would use if Shell V Power wasn't around.

 

[sub39h]

+1