Scratch Correction

[fgaffney]

I tried to do a bit of localised correction work yesterday on some random deep scratches using my DAS-6 with Menz Power Finish (PO85RD 3.02) on a 4” Lake Country compounding pad, this one:-

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polis...ountry-4-yellow-compounding-pad/prod_641.html

Although much improved the scratches are still there if you look for them and I was wondering what products/method would completely correct them?

I was also conscious of the heat being generated by the 4” pad compared to my 6” ones... is it possible to burn the lacquer using the above pad/polish if the scratches are targeted for too long a period or would that only be possible using a rotary?

Thanks in advance.

 

[JD09]

Keep it moving would be the key to the heat issue. Make sure you check your work after every session and more if you are worried. Touch it with the back of your hand to check.

Also, when correcting paint work you should be doing the whole panel (if doing it panel by panel rather than the whole car), not just particularly bad spots. You will create uneven paint work.

If time is your limitation, find a few hours, clean the car down and process one panel i.e bonnet; wash, dry, clay, wash, dry, polish, protect.

 

[JD09]

Looking at the photos, it looks like the scratches are rounding off nicely, meaning they are less visible. However, as above, make sure you do the panel/whole car as well.

 

[phoenixv6quattro]

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/showthread.php?97728-Which-Detaling-can-get-rid-of-scratch

 

[fgaffney]

Unfortunately the scratches in the photos are on the bonnet and they look like they've been caused by a cat's claws!

I have been working each panel in full with the 4" pad and when I come across a scratch I've been concentrating more on that particular area with the intention of correcting it but it's taking ages with the DA and I was a little concerned with the heat.

I was just wondering if I was using the optimum combination of pad/polish or whether I should be looking to try a stronger cutting polish? Am I just being impatient and not working the panels for long enough?

The car looks great until you look closely at it in a certain light...

 

[JD09]

Unfortunately VAG paint is exceptionally hard. So yes and no is the answer to your question.

The pad and polish I would use is the 3M polishing yellow pad and Menz 203S as it works very well on hard paint surfaces.

3.02 is just fine, I don't tend to have any use for the compounding pads in all honesty, but you might find these don't work as well with DAs as with rotaries.

Have you any pictures with direct light on the paint to show the current state? The scratches you posted before are ultra deep scratches and are therefore very difficult to remove - detailers will just round off the edges to make them less apparent.

 

[fgaffney]

Have you any pictures with direct light on the paint to show the current state? The scratches you posted before are ultra deep scratches and are therefore very difficult to remove - detailers will just round off the edges to make them less apparent.

Apologies for the delay but it wasn't until yesterday that the sun managed to break through the clouds, allowing me to get some 'fresh' photos.

I've now had two attempts at full correction and although the car's paintwork is vastly improved you can still see a number of random deep scratches on every panel. Overall I'm happy with the car's appearance considering what it was like when I bought it (March this year).

I forget sometimes that it's almost 7 years old with two former keepers who probably washed it with a sponge and some Fairy Liquid.

It would still be nice to be completely 'scratch free' though!!!


This is the centre of my bonnet

The scratch can be seen here (it's the 'Z' shape lying on it's side)

And a closer shot

Some pictures of the offside paintwork condition

F/O/S door

R/O/S wing

R/O/S pillar

Thanks for the replies so far!

 

[JD09]

Hmm, OK.

Yes the "Z" is a deeper scratch, but it is clear from the photos that correction has not occured for the more minor marks. Now this is not to say that the paint work has not been vastly improved; it just means that a little more work is required.

The trouble is, plain and simply, you are using a DA which will take forever to break down the polish and correct marks in VAG paint. Now it can be completed, however it will take time, experience and the right products.

Not sure if you have managed to get hold of the products I linked to above at all?

I would suggest you get the car machine polished with a rotary, back to A1 condition by a pro. Then keep on top of it with your DA and products + wash method. I know a few local ish lads that are more than capable and up to the task if you would like me to put them in touch with you/vice versa.

My car was a state. 8 years of Audi valeting and poor wash method by it's owners. That took some doing, even with the rotary.

 

[fgaffney]

Since owning the car I've done the following in relation to paintwork:-

Menz Power Finish on a 6" Yellow Sonus SFX1 pad followed by Menz Final Finish on a 6" Red Sonus SFX3 pad.

As I wasn't happy with the level of correction I ordered the 4" Lake Country compounding pad and used it with Menz Power Finish followed by PoorBoys Black Hole on a white 6" Sonus SFX2 pad. I then gave the whole car two passes of Carnauba Wax (48 hours apart) using a 6" Sonus SFX3 pad.

Menz 203S is labelled as Power Finish however when I turn my Power Finish bottle upside down it says 3.02 and not 203S... I've always been confused with the Menz labelling and polish codes. I see there's Power Gloss (200S) with a cut rating of 5/5.

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polis...50ml/menzerna-power-gloss-s100-/prod_215.html

I'm just about to order the new DAS Pro machine for a mate of mine and I'm wondering if Menz Power Gloss used in conjunction with the more powerful DAS machine (850w as opposed to my 500w motor) and the yellow 3M pad would get me where I want to be?

I'd really like to try and do all the correction myself rather than hand the car over to a pro. The car's my daily drive too so I also have to be realistic about just how 'shiny' the car can be especially as it's never garaged.

 

[JD09]

The Power Gloss is something I have used, but only with a DA. I would not dare use it with the rotary. It is a seriously quick cutting compound.

What I don't want you to do is keep going at it and cause paint defects that are more than "just" a few swirls. My suggestion would be to maybe watch some detailing videos, using the machine you have and get the best out of it.

I wouldn't bother with the new machine, because you will pay for something that will have little impact on the paint. Remember it is the pad and polish compound that will make the most amount of difference to your abilities with a DA (since you don't want a rotary machine, understandably).

Try using the above products, i.e. Menz 203S and the Sonus SFX1 pad you already have. I don't like compounding pads that much really as I find them to "skittish".

Something you might also want to look at is whether more swirls are being imparted by your wax application/removal.

 

[Mr.G]

The Power Gloss is something I have used, but only with a DA. I would not dare use it with the rotary. It is a seriously quick cutting compound.

I have used it on occasions on VAG paint which is heavily defected. It's not difficult to use and as long as you apply common sense and have experience then you'll find it's much like all the other Menz range, easy (ish) to use.

G

 

[JD09]

Took delivery of a 3M compounding pad about four months ago to correct the S3. Skipped more than any pad I have every used, really didn't like it, far too little feel. Maybe the Menz ones are better?

 

[Hunty]

I've got the menzerna pads and they are very hard compared to my lake country one, maybe worth giving their polishing pad a go, used the menz compounding pad with power finish/intensive polish and found it great on my mazda, obviously the audi took more work, but had good results from it. Should shift those swirls with it mate. They're cheaper than the others too

 

[fgaffney]

I've decided to try and continue to correct myself so I've ordered the Menz Compounding Pad with some Menz Power Gloss. I haven't decided on my pad/polish combination yet and may try some 3M Finesse-It or Menz Power Finish on the new Menz pad before I go near the Power Gloss.

Thanks for all the feedback... it's much appreciated!

 

[Hunty]

Doing it yourself is the way I would go, way more satisfying. Hope you get it sorted buddy, let us know how you get on with some piccies!

 

[WX51TXR]

Just to add the excellent input above, I can say with 100% confidence that you will need to use the white Menzerna compounding pads in conjunction with at least RD3.02 to tackle the deeper defects shown in the images above. In fact, I would actually suggest that you will need to step up to Meguiar's #105 or an equivalent, as Audi paint is super hard and difficult to correct by DA... particularly when the defects are deep. Switching to S100 (Power Gloss) is one option, but it really is a bonkers product and must be worked extremely well if micromarring is to be avoided. My advice would be to tackle the scratches first using Menzerna compounding spot pads, then redo each panel with Menzerna compounding pads and RD3.02, and then finally buzz the whole exterior once with 85RE on a polishing pad (or finishing pad if you stick within the Menzerna pad range). Heat isn't an issue on metal panels unless the panel gets literally too hot to touch. However, on plastic panels (i.e. bumpers, etc) you should try to make sure the panel doesn't get anything more than warm. Hope that helps!

 

[fgaffney]

Just thought I'd give a quick update. Despite getting harder to see the scratch as it slowly disappears, this is where I am now :-

After a bit of juggling I ended up giving the bonnet two passes of Menz Power Gloss using the new white Menz Compounding Pad followed by 1 pass of 3M Finesse-It on a white Sonus SFX2 pad. I reckon another couple of passes with the Menz combo would have resulted in full correction however the Menz pad gave up on me and disintegrated (I blame myself for mucking about with it at high speed).

I also used FinishKare 1000P for the first time today after reading a lot of good reports. I've never seen water bead and sheet like it... amazing!!!

 

[WX51TXR]

That's a good result above; sometimes doing any better is not possible given modern paint thicknesses, so be happy!