Advice on removing secondary air pump please!

[mark_sarah]

I will be removing my Secondary Air pump, can anyone advice me, or give me a stupid proof guide to the removal procedure?

Am i right in saying i have got to remove this? And this is where the Forge blanking plate goes?

Has this pipe got to be blanked off, or re-routed?

The pipe above goes to here, and then goes up to another part of the engine. There is also another pipe which is blanked off on this unit, should it be?

The pipe that comes out of the unit above then goes here. Is this to be blanked?

Before anyone comments on the state of the pipes, they have now been changed, as these seem to be the cause of some of my problems.

 

[rossbrownlee]

Why do you want to remove it?

 

[mark_sarah]

Because it has water dripping out of it, and it is registering a fault on Vag com.
Seems cheaper to remove it..

 

[Imteyaz]

This link has some good pics and a decent write-up: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4893472-DIY-Ultimate-SAI-N249-PCV-EVAP-Delete

 

[rossbrownlee]

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/showthread.php?88299-Sai-removal-guide

Struggling to see how there could be water dripping out of it though.

 

[mark_sarah]

Thanks to everyone that sent me links to help me remove the SAI pump ect.. Did it today and it was a doddle.

However! Even though the fault code is no longer poping up, the problem with the irratic boost is still there. And it has thrown up 2 different fault codes!

Starting to pea me off now, and help would be greatfully appreciated.

 

[rossbrownlee]

post up the fault codes you are getting.

 

[mark_sarah]

I re-scanned the car today, and ended up with more new faults:

3 Faults Found:
16795 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected
P0411 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16518 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0134 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
17521 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1113 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 35: Centr. Locks
Controller: 8L0 862 257 P
Component: CV-Pump, Alarm, RC D13
Coding: 13130
Shop #: WSC 00000
11 Faults Found:
01367 - Central Locking Pump Run Time Exceeded (Likely Leak)
35-00 - -
01371 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
35-00 - Please Register/Activate
01374 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
35-00 - Please Register/Activate
01370 - Alarm triggered by Interior Monitoring
35-00 - -
01369 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
35-00 - Please Register/Activate
01366 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
35-00 - Please Register/Activate
01365 - Lock/Unlock Switch: Interior
29-00 - Short to Ground
00955 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
09-00 - Please Register/Activate
00956 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
09-00 - Please Register/Activate
01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)
76-00 - Terminal 30 missing
01134 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
49-00 - Please Register/Activate

The SAI fault has now been rectified. The other faults are new to me..

 

[The Stig]

did you place a 330 ohm 10w resistor?

 

[rossbrownlee]

check out this link

Will help you with the fault codes. had a quick look couldn't find some, maybe cause it is shareware version?
try clearing them and then scan again to see what comes back up. you will be stuck with the SAI fault codes though.

 

[mark_sarah]

Cheers guys..

Will try tomorrow.

Have'nt put the resister in yet, ordering on friday.. skint..lol!

 

[mark_sarah]

Since i have removed the SAI, i have noticed the revs take a while to settle after the car is rev'd. I thought it was because my DV was shagged, but i replaced it today with a Forge replacement, but the rev's are still un-settled.

Any ideas on what may be causing this?

I have checked vag com, but it is still only throwing up the SAI fault becuse i am not able to wipe fault codes.

 

[rossbrownlee]

vacuum hose leaking?

 

[mark_sarah]

I need to clarify where this pipe is suppose to go, highlighted in red. At the moment this is just blanked off. Is it suppose to be connected elsewhere?

 

[rossbrownlee]

That is the vacuum feed to the N112 SAI solenoid mounted on the plate under the intake manifold next to dipstick tube.

Since you have removed your SAI then it should just be blanked off.

 

[The Stig]

I made a pipe scheme before and after removal of the n249 and sai. If you wish i also have a n249 removed only scheme.
Note i used this on my apy engine.

http://www.audiforum.nl/forum/showroom/42585-eriks-s3.html#post941090

 

[Matt82]

is the SAI the thing that ends up chattering on cold idle?

 

[mark_sarah]

Possibly.

 

[Welly]

Just remove the N249 assembly as well. Get rid of the jumble of pipes, and the vac chamber from the top of the engine.

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/showthread.php?84402-N249-Bypass-How-To-(2000-S3-but-same-for-many

Guide will help you.

 

[ikbenben]

is the SAI the thing that ends up chattering on cold idle?

Mine also makes that sound on cold idle. Strangely I don't have the SAI pump ???

 

[Matt82]

Mine also makes that sound on cold idle. Strangely I don't have the SAI pump ???

as in youve completely removed it?

 

[ikbenben]

as in youve completely removed it?

As in my car doesn't have it standard. Maybe the previous owner already removed it, i don't know.

 

[rossbrownlee]

The chattering you are referring to sounds more like the evap solenoid. It is located on the charcoal canister next to power steering reservoir.

 

[Matt82]

As in my car doesn't have it standard. Maybe the previous owner already removed it, i don't know.

thats suprising. well after a bit more reading, it seems the SAI only functions below a certain temp, the light chatter i get on startup some times i think is from my cam chain. im cleaning the oil pick up this weekend and ill see how that goes

 

[jonny87]

yes, the sai is supposed to operate on first startup, pumping fresh cold around from the airbox straight to the exhaust system, lowering emissions, once the cat reaches a certain temp it shuts off, seeing as the newer engines (amk & bam) dont have the sai i assume that audi realised it was a waste of time and removed it

when i removed mine the pump was full of water and grit and grass, chucking a code, replaced the wiring plug with a resistor, no codes, simples

for anyone wondering about how it affects emissions, i had my mot done a few weeks back, sailed through emissions no problems

 

[coyle]

i fancy having a go at this while my cars off the road, is it pretty easy?

 

[Andrew@A.L.D]

yes, the sai is supposed to operate on first startup, pumping fresh cold around from the airbox straight to the exhaust system, lowering emissions, once the cat reaches a certain temp it shuts off, seeing as the newer engines (amk & bam) dont have the sai i assume that audi realised it was a waste of time and removed it

when i removed mine the pump was full of water and grit and grass, chucking a code, replaced the wiring plug with a resistor, no codes, simples

for anyone wondering about how it affects emissions, i had my mot done a few weeks back, sailed through emissions no problems

Same for me when i took it in for MOT i just made sure it was up to full working temperature and pass easy.

 

[coyle]

Ok, going to remove the SAI pump tomorrow, i've read numerous guides etc, but just want to be 100% sure what im doing.

So remove the pump, do i have to fit a resistor? if so what spec?
remove the combi valve, do i have to remove the coolant neck pipe in order to fit the blanking plate? or should i leave the metal pipe connected and blank it at the top by the rocker cover?

do i leave the n112 valve not plummed in to anything at all?
does the hose now run from the top of the dumpvalve straight to the inlet mani?

anything else i should know about or watch out for? its an APY engine
cheers
Jon

 

[coyle]

Does it go in to the TIP? so i know whether i need to get something to block the TIP pipe

 

[Welly]

Ok, going to remove the SAI pump tomorrow, i've read numerous guides etc, but just want to be 100% sure what im doing.

So remove the pump, do i have to fit a resistor? if so what spec? You don't have to - I felt mine unplugged completely and ignored the fault code that occasionally comes up. You can fit a resistor if you prefer though. Don't know what spec.
remove the combi valve, do i have to remove the coolant neck pipe in order to fit the blanking plate? or should i leave the metal pipe connected and blank it at the top by the rocker cover? Buy a proper blanking plate for it from either Forge or Integrated Engineering. Alternatively, make one.

do i leave the n112 valve not plummed in to anything at all? Yep, exactly that. Disconnect pipes, leave wired in.
does the hose now run from the top of the dumpvalve straight to the inlet mani? Yes

anything else i should know about or watch out for? its an APY engine Not really - the pump is a bit of a pain to get out is all.

Points above ^^

 

[Welly]

Does it go in to the TIP? so i know whether i need to get something to block the TIP pipe

Nope.

 

[coyle]

Ok great!
Ive got my forge blanking plate. So when fitting it,do i fit it at the top by the rocker cover (like the pic suggests at the top of this thread?) or fit it on the engine hole itself, and if the latter do i need to remove any coolant pipes, as ive seen this in some threads but not others

 

[s3dave]

Are you doing a "how to" for the guys........?

 

[coyle]

Theres so many of them, wellys done one, its just hard to put everything in place in your head.
So just making sure and finding out whats what so i dont over complicate things

 

[beachbuggy]

RESISTOR:

If anyone is interested, you need to fit a resistor in order to keep the fault codes away.

You need a 10w 330ohm resistor, but these are a little hard to get hold of, but a 10w 470Ohm resistor from Maplins will work just as well. cost is 69p. The resistor is quite large, place the two ends of the resistor in the plug socket and then wrap in insulating tape.

 

[S3 finatic]

Previously mark_sarah

The blank needs to go on the engine block, that is what its design for.
Once I put the resisters in place, no more fault codes...

 

[coyle]

Ok, brilliant.do i have to remove the hoolant hose next to where the blanking plate goes to get access?

 

[S3 finatic]

I did'nt need to, but it made it more fiddly.

 

[coyle]

I'll do my best to do it without,as dont want to lose my G12 which i only put in 2weeks ago when i changed my thermostat..