Had car on rollers only 110 bhp :(

[Layerz]

Hey guys I will get a pic up later of the plot.

So just to sumarise I have a 1998 tdi Audi A4 non-pd (engine code is afn) 110 as stock.
I recently installed bigger nozzles which should of made more power and tbh they felt like they had and more torque but the torque being the more noticeable!

Got to the rolling road day right after you guys left, in fact I think I saw a few of ya! But I made 110 bhp and 180 ft/lb torque so something is a miss!!

Also the guy said the torque was good as it did not nose dive but just dropped a bit.

I did have a remap planned, but this concerns me and I shall be taking a look in a min to make sure all is as should be.

Think first port of call is a oil change and service.

Other then that I suspect the right front disc of warped or rubbing as the is a slight squealing coming from it. Or the turbo has seen better days.

In vag-com I chaned the settings as per guide and it is currently at 4.8mg/r if that is relevant at all?

Anyone got any insight into this?

 

[inigoj]

After 9 years your car will have lost a few horses.

The 0.216 nozzles (genuine VAG or PP520's etc) should have given you an extra 20-25bhp & 40 or 50lbs of torque.

Which nozzles did you fit, and is your MAF clean and fully working?

A remap will definitely make better use of the larger nozzles.

If your front brakes are rubbing this could account for the lost power.

 

[Layerz]

PP520's, upgrade from stock .205 nozzles. Unless without my knowledge they were .216 anyways.

I will check out the brakes also.

Few questions first is would low oil matter as it is a bit low, but I am servicing it tomorrow anyway and the rr session was at short notice to do it earlier. Or any filters matter for that matter?

I have a squaling coming from the front right wheel upto 30mph that goes when the breaks are applied so I think there is rubbing but could not say how much.

 

[inigoj]

The correct oil level is pretty critical to smooth running on these engines, as there is only 3.5 litres in the engine.

Depending on driving style and your mileage, i would check the level every few weeks, keeping it at the high end of the middle part on the dipstick.

If you topup & change your oil and filter regularly the engine will last forever.

Overfilling will ruin your CAT amongst other things.

Dirty air and fuel filters can contribute to power loss.

 

[Layerz]

Air filter should be ok, that being said I live near a cement plant and work at a quarry so may be worth just checking them. So oil being low would not add to power loss.

In terms of oil change I now plan to do them every 6k.

 

[Layerz]

Just adding to this the car is now serviced. I flushed the engine and now on semi-sythn, new oil filter and new fuel filter all in.

A neighbor pointed something good out, could the inlet manifold be clogged and causing problems.
He also said to clean the maf sensor.

I think the maf is ok but it was a good point on the inlet manifold.

Anyone else agree on this line of thinking?

 

[inigoj]

Cleaning the inlet manifold, and then reducing your EGR rate to the minimum is a good idea.

I would also clean out the intercooler and maybe clean the VNT mechanism.

 

[Layerz]

You wreckon that the inlet manifold could be sapping a few ponies? or just good to do anyways?

Either way I will do it.

 

[JayB5UK]

how do you mean inlet manifold?
If you live and work near dusty areas i'd reckon on changingthe air filter twice as often as the schedule states.

 

[inigoj]

The 'Exhaust Gas Recirculation' system injects exhaust gas back into the inlet side to reburn and help reduce emissions of nitrogen oxide/dioxide.

Unfortunately it causes the inlet manifold become coated in a thickening layer of diesel soot/crud, as well as reducing the density/oxygen/temp/power of the combustion.

 

[Layerz]

So inigoj the answer is yes it could be sapping power if it is thickly coated.

I doubt it has been cleaned in all the cars 9 years / 124k milage