Upgrading internals

DuncS3

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Right, so am considering going BT in the future and since JBS have a GT28RS kit available, I'm tempted to go that route.

But before going BT I want to uprate my internals, rods and valves i think should be sufficient.

JBS sell their own 'H-Beam Con-Rods' and stainless steel valves - anyone got any comments on this approach? They also do forged pistons but I think the S3/TT pistons are good enough...

Dunc
 
Why do you think you need to upgrade the internals? Or do you just want to in order to be on the safe side?

Cheers, Clive
 
Well to be on the safe side is my overriding reason. Wilkos IHI Golf threw a rod in the last few days, although I think the 150 unit is not as strong internally as the TT/S3.

S3 looks like its staying for a while as a daily driver so want to do it right first time if I go BT...

Dunc
 
Mine went pop last night.
Same rods as later s3/tt's.
I had rods going in next week, along with a big port head, including uprated valves etc. JBS are doing the work.
If it had lasted another 4 days, I'd not have had to shell out for a new block and crank.
Good job I know where to source all the bits myself at much better prices.

I was running 1.6 bar peak boost and 1.45 bar at 7500rpm. I tend to rev it a lot, and its had 67K hard miles. Chipped at <100 miles, and 20k miles on big turbo.

I was unlucky, but I'd planned to uprate internals for good reason. Nice thing about the 1.8T is it's a cheap engine to replace.
 
Bad luck about the car going now. Turbo okay though?

Which valves are you using?

Dunc
 
Turbos fine. Rod 2 snapped, and punched a big old hole in the block and sump. Low down, so it missed all the expensive hardware.

I'm using the same valves that JBS spec. I just sourced them myself from the US.
 
Really sorry to hear the news - typical about it going just before the upgrade.

I am looking to upgrade to 300 ish BHP with a GT28RS on standard internals - I think I will try and budget for some stronger internals within the next few months - is it just the bottom end that is at risk if the revs are kept the same?

Cheers,

Greg
 
dunc,go for rods and valvegear,should be good for 400bhp.
 
Valves drop from repeated high rev abuse.
If a rod goes, piston hits head, and bends valves, rod flails around and holes block and sump, + probably wrecks crank
If you're going to do it, I'd do the whole job. If you source the bits yourself from the US, it's nowhere near as bad as you think.
 
Blimey John, was reading this on UK-MKIVS last night. Good job you have all the other bits ready to go in teh car and it wont cost you MUCH more... Just inconvenient though i bet.

Looking forward to seeing it come back stronger and faster than ever!

Rich
 

[ QUOTE ]
If you're going to do it, I'd do the whole job. If you source the bits yourself from the US, it's nowhere near as bad as you think.

[/ QUOTE ]

Exchange rate is in our favour so I too would advise you to shop stateside for these bits at the moment.
 
JBS will only fit (for me anyhow) if I buy from them - thats their Rods and Valves.

My engine also burns quite a bit of oil as it is so will get rings seen to also if I go this route although thats not a cost thing (1 litre for 2k miles)

Now all that remains is the mental block that says "is it worth it"..

Dunc
 
how much bhp did your golf have if you dont mind me asking?
I want to get about 300bhp out of my 1.8TQ but not sure if the internals will take it, i have heard there ok for up to about 350..
 
[ QUOTE ]
how much bhp did your golf have if you dont mind me asking?
I want to get about 300bhp out of my 1.8TQ but not sure if the internals will take it, i have heard there ok for up to about 350..

[/ QUOTE ]

300bhp wont break anything internally. You would only be runing around 1.1-1.2 bar on a IHI to achieve that power which is not very stressful on the engine.
 
thats what i like to hear :) what is the most bar + bhp i could run reliably?
 
I was running 1.45 bar at 7.5K rpm on a small port head, so aprox 250g/s.
With the water injection, I was running a consistent 15 deg before tdc, on optimax. I think thats what killed it.
I'd got an extra 7 degrees of timing across the board over standard 98 timing, and it gave me 30lb ft over what I had on standard timing.
I had 335lbft at JBS and stealth before I upped the timing.
 
really its the high revving and too advanced timing that killed your engine isnt it?
 
No
it's taking a standarsd engine to uver double it's original torque and power ratings, and then ragging the crap out of it for 67k miles that killed it.
If you tune your car, this may happen to you.
I know of someone who bent two rods in 20k miles with just a chip. But he drove like a moron.
 

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