Heater Motor Problems

james0808

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The motor has stopped working.is this a common problem on the A4?
 
I had a problem with mine I posted a thread on it. Andy Mac got it spot on and said it was the blower. Have a look at this - Thread
 
john2garden said:
I had a problem with mine I posted a thread on it. Andy Mac got it spot on and said it was the blower. Have a look at this - Thread


Link doesnt work :(

I have a problem with my Audi B6 also, the fan blower keeps shutting off intermitently, I will try and explain..

It started at Xmas time, the cold weather came and every now and again the blower would not come on, but when the temp outside was above 14c it would work perfect, now slowly the temp is increasing, and the fan wont come on at all now unless the car is in direct sunlight at 25+c.

Is this the strangest thing you have heard haha???

I have a VAGCOM and no codes reported, I have checked sensors, water levels etc all fine, I have removed the CLimate unit and cleaned it and since doing so it got worse, and now rarely comes on.

The display is showing full blower but no air is being blown, to throw another spanner in the works, if I remove the 30 amp fuse from the fusebox and replace it(3rd down from top) the blower comes on for 15 secs then shuts off.

Also if the blower does come on on a hot day, it will shut off after 20-30 mins, then if I press off on the climate unit and switch is back on after 30 secs it comes on again for 2-3mins ( nice cold air)

Anyone have ideas?

Faulty Climate control unit is all I can think off?
 
The brushes fail on the blower motor after about 4-5 years (depending on use), which is why the fault can be intermittant.
I took mine apart and cleaned it up with WD40 and it would then work again for a couple of weeks, but would always fail eventually.
You need to replace the Valeo blower unit (about £150 from independent, £350 from Audi, it is not an Audi part and is an easy job to replace.
One guy on here got some extra mileage out of his by extending the springs that hold the brushes to the rotor but this won't work forever.
 
AndyMac said:
The brushes fail on the blower motor after about 4-5 years (depending on use), which is why the fault can be intermittant.
I took mine apart and cleaned it up with WD40 and it would then work again for a couple of weeks, but would always fail eventually.
You need to replace the Valeo blower unit (about £150 from independent, £350 from Audi, it is not an Audi part and is an easy job to replace.
One guy on here got some extra mileage out of his by extending the springs that hold the brushes to the rotor but this won't work forever.

Andy, thanks for the reply, does my senario sound like its the blower motor?

Why will it work though if i take the fuse out then stop again after 5-10 secs?

Just wondering
 
If it consistently behaves like that then it sounds more like some sort of sensor problem, i.e. the fuse resets it, it does some tests then stops again.
The issue with the brushes is far more sporadic.
I'd get a multimeter on the blower terminals and see if your still getting a voltage when it fails. If it's the blower then there will still be voltage at the terminals. There is a regulator that is also a common failure, which is what I tried replacing first, but this was on a B5 so no idea if it's the same on a B6, it was an orange thing near the blower where the wires feed from.
 
here is a post i got from someone on audi newsgroup....

Maybe this is the problem

quote....

The climate control is set up to not allow the AC to turn on if the outside temp
is 8C (or very close to that). It is not supposed to affect the fan.

There is another system that will not allow the fans to turn on until the engine
coolant temp reaches a certain level so that the heater doesn't blow cold air.


It sounds like either the wiring for these two systems is incorrect or that the
programing in the climate control is bad. Either way the dealer is the best
place to sort this out especially if you are still under warranty.
 
Update :0

I have removed the Heater Blower and phoned GSF carparts, who state they don't supply a motor for the B6 shape A4 only the older B5 :(

It is definatly the blower motor that is faulty on mine, as all the voltages are perfect going into the motor but the motor clicks off after 5-10 secs.

I have supplied a picture of the broken blower motor, and wondered if GSF are wrong, and the part is infact the same?

blower2.JPG


blower.JPG


blower1.JPG
 
It also has a radiclly different price, cheapest so far is 190 + VAT and delivery

Its not alot different, that's what it looks like out of the casing.
 
Just an update...

After fitting a new blower motor the car is perfect, so if anyone else has the same symtoms you know know what it is.

Mine started playing up about a year ago, somtimes it would work othertimes nothing,
 
Nice one Ronny, where did you get the new motor from? and is it the same as the B5?
 
I bought a 2nd hand unit in the end, it looked worse than the one I took out, mine was all nice and new looking.

The part number is the same as the B5 A4 apart from the 8E on the B6 and 8D on the B5, I spoke to lots of Audi spares places, and none can get the 8E but the 8D was everywhere, it looked very similar and had the same spade terminals as mine, (6 way plug)

I was so tempted to try the £90 B5 one, just for a crack, but in the end had to for fork out 117.50 for a 4 yr old B6 model :(
 
if the motor was spinning fine for some seconds then shutting down, its like the internal thermistor was signalling over heating in the armature, a lot of motors have internal thermal protection, the brushes being duff cause no current to be drawn so no movement or sparking and sticking of the motor if they wear through to the pigtail wires or spring.

Anyhoo, glad its working again. If anyone else has this problem, the motor should have a bead-like thermal component that can be bridged out and the motor should run when given 12v, a multimeter on the motor wires to the brushes should show only a few ohms but flicker as the motor is spun by hand, showing the brushes are at least in contact, brushes are little carbon blocks on springs for those who dont know, and cost about £2 and can be easy to fit, but not always, especially if they are soldered at the feed wire end.

No reading from a meter on the ohms range indicates an open thermistor or brushes worn down and not in contact with the commutator (the bit they touch at the ends)