Air conditioning woes

quattrojames

quattrojames

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My AC has been a bit intermittent this year, I had it regassed a couple of weeks ago and hoped that would cure it, but alas not. Typically, it will blow cold for about 15-20 mins, and then it will blow ambient air for approx 30secs a minutes, and then cold for 30secs - minute etc and it repeats this pattern.

I have scanned it and got three codes:

3 Faults Found:
01809 - Actuating Motor for Temperature Flap; Left (V158)
41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent
00716 - Air recirculation Flap Positioning Motor (V113)
41-00 - Blocked or No Voltage
01232 - A/C Compressor Regulator Valve (N280)
29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

I'll be googling later for ideas, but in the meantime wondered if anyone with more AC experience than me can shed any light on those codes (specifically the N280 one)

NB duplicate thread in the AC section.
 
Could it be sticky motors in the control flaps behind the glove box.I had to free one recently and it hasn't returned.If it giving cold air the valve may not be an immediate problem but hopefully is simple to replace but I don't have much knowledge of aircon.
 
id go for the N280

flap could be stuck but as your geting cold air i doubt the flap would cause it to go warm unless its moveing by its self.
 
audi upgrades
I'll check the action of the two flap motors, and the connections around the N280, albeit the compressor doesn't look too easy to get to!

If that doesn't help I'll take it in somewhere I think.
 
QJ - hope you're well (if not cool atm!)

The A/C compressor itself is ok to get at with the lower cover off (gravel trap).

To check compressor function take it out of 'auto' set the temp low, output to screen (upper only) and see if it's cold (rather than just blasting ambient air) - if that's ok then it's not likely to be a compressor prob (it worked for me anyhow)

I've never got to the bottom of the vent flaps / temp sensor issue - my original CC unit did the same hot / cold routine and changing the CC unit cured it - there was not a fault in VCDS (CC unit wise). I think it may be the sensor /fan in the top of the front panel cc unit that plays up (behind the top grill above the centre led).

Intermittent flap motor / potentiometer faults also exacerbate the problems as in 'auto' the unit adjust the temp by varying the flaps so sometimes these work and sometimes they don't! My car would be cool as on drivers side but always hot / cold on passengers!

I'm not saying this is your problem but just a note to say they aren't always what they seem.

I've had the n280 (01232) fault when running without a compressor - it went once I fitted a new (2nd hand) compressor even though it wasn't gassed. It seems to be a control unit or wiring fault in / around the compressor.

It is possible to replace the compressor (on a 2.5tdi) without putting car into service position but you need a v small offset spanner / socket to adjust the tensioner. If you (or anyone else) do this then (obviously) BEWARE of the high pressure and hcfc dangers.

hope of a bit of use..
cheers
And
 
Sorry to hi-jack Janes but whikst we are talking about flap motors, if i remember correctly there are three, one does position and the other two are drivers/ passenger temp? Does anyone know which colour does what or if indeed my usumption is correct.
 
mattyboyc said:
Sorry to hi-jack Janes but whikst we are talking about flap motors, if i remember correctly there are three, one does position and the other two are drivers/ passenger temp? Does anyone know which colour does what or if indeed my usumption is correct.
Click to expand...

The n280 is the capacity control for the compressor
 
Thanks And, I'll get back to you tomorrow mate.

mattyboyc said:
Sorry to hi-jack Janes but whikst we are talking about flap motors, if i remember correctly there are three, one does position and the other two are drivers/ passenger temp? Does anyone know which colour does what or if indeed my usumption is correct.
Click to expand...

It's in Elsawin, I'll dig it out and let you know tomorrow.
 
mattyboyc said:
Sorry to hi-jack Janes but whikst we are talking about flap motors, if i remember correctly there are three, one does position and the other two are drivers/ passenger temp? Does anyone know which colour does what or if indeed my usumption is correct.
Click to expand...

The green linkage (below in the pic) does the windscreen demister.

From Elsawin:

air-recirculation flap control motor -V113
Connecting element at control motor is colour-coded. For control motor -V113 it is blue (light blue for RHD with additional lug).

temperature flap control motor, left -V158

Lever at control motor is colour-coded. Lever for control motor -V158 is red (yellow for RHD).

Make of that what you will, I'm just going out to investigate mine.

P1030626.jpg
 
Thanks for that James, hope you get yours sorted as it looks like the hot weather is here for a whike longer!
 
Right, the temperature control flapis controlled by a yellow mechanism, and is accessed by removing the lower dashboard trim (where the manual etc sits) above the drivers knee's. The mechanism is hard to get to, but mine was moved freely as I scrolled between LO and HI. This pic is from the clutch pedal looking up:



The recirc flap motor is seen by removing the glovebox, and it's quite accessible perched on the sit of the fan. The linkage is indeed blue.



Mine wasn't moving as it should. The linkage moved freely, so I stripped the motor down and regreased, and it moves freely... but on reassembly they don't move in conjunction with each other, which is annoying. Ebay motor's seems cheap enough so I might just try another. For now I've left the glovebox out and I'll flip the recirc flap across manually to see if it helps my AC issue.. I don't think it will. My suspicion is it's compressor (or similar) based.

 
The AC seems to work for about the first 15 mins of a journey, from then on it becomes intermittent. I find it works better at speed (50mph+) and if I set it to 22c rather than 18c. I think it's probably compressor (maybe clutch?) related. I'm just deciding whether to buy a replacement compressor, or take it in somewhere and get a specialist to look at it.
 
Dude I would right now die for your 15/20 minutes of your cold air you currently get as Im not getting anything. Ive got it all gassed up and was told condensor which had a big hole and then after fixed I had it for a week and now I got nothing. Been told the compressor goosed.

Oh well happy days :)
 
quattrojames said:
The AC seems to work for about the first 15 mins of a journey, from then on it becomes intermittent. I find it works better at speed (50mph+) and if I set it to 22c rather than 18c. I think it's probably compressor (maybe clutch?) related. I'm just deciding whether to buy a replacement compressor, or take it in somewhere and get a specialist to look at it.
Click to expand...
I think a easy way to check if the system is performing is to feel the pipes by the bulkhead.Those on my last B6 were never no more than cool despite regassing.On This one they get really cold and the air is super cool evenat 20 in this heat.The rad will always be able to work better at speed and I find recirc is best at low speed until its coping OK.Also wonder if some regassing is better than others
 
I drove home from work with it on 21c today (a cooler day, maybe 25c outside) and it blew cold throughout (30 mins trip). When I got home I touched the AC pipes on the offside going into the bulkhead and they were ice cold and covered in condensation. So I know it can work, it's just consistency I'm after!

Anyway, waiting for me at home was another recirculating flap motor, so I replace that. Pics (not mine) are here for anyone interested, obviously a left hooker.

AC problem w/ code

I cleared the codes, but annoyingly this remained. I don't know why, the recirc flap moves now and all seems ok.

On the plus side, this code has gone:
01809 - Actuating Motor for Temperature Flap; Left (V158)
41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent

But I have gained this one:
00735 - Potentiometer in Positioning Motor for Air recirculation Flap (G143)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent

And of course, these two still remain:
00716 - Air recirculation Flap Positioning Motor (V113)
41-00 - Blocked or No Voltage
01232 - A/C Compressor Regulator Valve (N280)
29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

I have rung a specialist, he told me he's very busy :ermm: but will get back to me soon!

I hate cars.
 
Hi,
N280 fault, "I think" will refer to a valve on the A/C compressor, if it is the same as my friends car, they are very small and get blocked if the system isn't purged properly.
Have you monitored the refrigerant pressure?, you could simply have low pressure in the system. Though not sure on your specific car, but cars require the condenser to be cooled via. cooling fans, once the refrigerant pressure rises, otherwise the system performance will drop off, so it could be simply a fan not operating.
After removing the flap motors did you re-calibrate/normalise them? There is a facility to do it in VCDS, I suspect maybe the reason why you are throwing up a different fault code now as you have fixed the original issue and the code now is being brought up because they are out of synch, I of course could be completely wrong.
 
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Sorry to hijack your post a little, don't have the same issue with the temperature and AC system, but I do think i have a problem with the recirc flap motor... I get horrendous noise from the dash behind the glovebox when switching the AC into recirc or when using the washers (I think the AC switches to recirc temporarily to stop the washer bottle fumes coming into the AC!). Assumed this to be the little servo motors! It seems like you have looked into this during you investigation, any pointers as to which motor it is? Your pics are of a LHD right, so should just be the opposite?! And if its just the motor should i just be able to disconnect and fit a new one without having to recode anything?! Mine is a late B7 (2008)! Thanks!

Hope you got to the bottom of your problem properly!
 
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You'll need to take the glovebox out, three screws inside and two underneath I think, and disconnect the light lead. Behind that is the fan motor, and above that is the flap which changed from internal to external air. The mechanism on there is controlled by a servo motor. It's an easy swap, two bolts and unclip the mechanism.

I bought a new motor last year, PM me if you are interested in it.
 
Thanks for the reply! :)

Got the glovebox out, after dealing with a cd changer removal hindered by a broken retaining clip - there are extra screws that not many seem to know about, Audi Techs and usual German Specialist Workshop Techs, but they may only be there for extra support if you have a factory fitted changer!

Is the motor in question in your picture poster on the 17th July?! And likely to be that same part in my B7?
 
Yes and yes.

The part number of mine is 8E2 820 511 A - please check yours but I have no doubt it's the same.
 
I have part number 8E282051D on mine (motor on the blue linkage to the left of the passenger footwell - 3rd picture on here). 8E2820511A I think was the number on one of the ones on the side of the centre console (1st picture). I will double check tomorrow now in the light and maybe put a pic or 2 up if you don't mind.

Thanks again - always nice to find help on here when the garages can be so vague!! I asked the garage that i use usually and they said they'd have to run diag and then work out my trial and error which motor was faulty.... I could hear instantly which it was!!!
 
No problem, I have no doubt they're the same though. I have all my flap motors in front of me right now!
 
All fixed thanks mate! Seems most people have either completely knackered motors (=replacement) or sticky ones (strip down and de-grease if brave enough).... mine, however, was a worn worm-screw and the motor spindle just didn't have enough strength to overcome the give in the plastic to hold the threads together - result was that they were clicking over one another! Temp solution a piece of plasticised card over the motor to ensure the case pressed it down and onto the thread.... et voila!! Sure it'll go proper at some point!! Think its worth a new thread on here?!
IMG 7453
 
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