Cruise Control retrofit

pns2007

Moonstone Grey
VCDS Map User
Joined
Nov 23, 2008
Messages
724
Reaction score
81
Points
28
Just ordered my stalk and lower cowl (8PO 953 513 F 9B9 and 8PO 953 512 A 6PS) as I have mfsw I believe that my 58 plate A3 will not need a new slip ring or steering wheel control module (swcm)?

The parts were £65 + vat with a bit of discount. Dealer qoted £379 for supply and fit. Doesn't look too bad and it will definately help pay back the cost of the VDS cable

I have looked at several posts on here and believe that I am now ready to go!

A few quick questions really which I'm unsure of:-

1) So long as I disconnect the battery and turn the ignition to the on position and press the brake pedal, is there any thing else I should be warey of.

2) I'm not too sure about the slip ring, having looked at Nigels comments below

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

#13
post_old.gif
June 5th, 2008
NHN
user_online.gif

Modmetractor
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: In A House
Posts: 5,102
Thanks: 95
Thanked 248 Times in 237 Posts


I would seriously suggest you get the proper 14mm 12 slotted torx head for the 8P as if you screw the head up on that then you are well & truly fecked, its only a small price to pay at halfords & you can get a whole set which actually also has the 12mm one for the seats should you ever do the bluetooth install which goes under the seat.

You need to remove the wheel anyway to check the part number of your steering wheel control module, I suspect its probably ok to use that one for the cruise, but do take it apart & check 1st, when taking the top cover of be careful not to break the little retaining clips at the top that holds the top & bottom covers together around the steering column, me & Matt did this, I repaired mine, he glued his in place(yeehaaa boy, lol, lol, sorry matt had to) anyway patients & time.

Make sure you straighten your wheels, before anything else, then also make sure the centre column thread has a centre mark which also matches up with a centre mark on the steering wheel, it should already have one u will see, if hasnt mark the column thread & the wheel with a stanley knife lightly so you know which position to put the wheel in when reinstalling.

When wheel has been removed, put some tape on the slip ring so it doesnt move cause this is VERY VERY IMPORTANT it remains in the same place when reinstalled, then take it of, but make sure it doesnt move whatsoever when removed from the column.

Also note the module has a certain way of coming of, dont try & prize it of as it wont budge, it must be released from the front by inserting a long thin screwdriver & I mean thin or a thin peice of metal say coat hanger, PATIENTS HERE AS IT DOES **** YOU OF if you dont know how to, at the rear is also a clip you can push in to release the module at the rear so then it drops down & out, bright torch & patients needed.

Rest should be simple to work out to be honest as fit the cruise & then reverse of removal.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Presumably, when the steering wheel has been removed it will show the slip ring. Where should the tape go to stop the slip ring moving and will the slip ring then just pull off the column. Is there a particular way for it to go back on. Any further detailed help would be great just so I know what I'm letting myself into.

3) I know you have to take the steering wheel control module off, I've had a read through elsawin and understand about putting the 2.3 mm drill in the hole and unclipping the clip at the back, but does this then remove the whole of the swcm or does this allow for just the circuit board to be released. Will the security seal be broken this way and should I worry about this.

I have VDS to re code and think I'm happy with this.

Any other info that others may have would be great.

Thanks



2008 A3 cabriolet TDI S-Line
 
Could you link to where you got the Stalk from?

or was it a shop?

Cheers and good luck
 
The whole unit will come off when released properly with the 2.3mm tool, those that remove the cct board are those that don't know how to properly remove the controller. No worries with the seal, if you you have one. I don't think they are fitted anymore.

I normally just use a perm marker to mark up the steering wheel position, also there is no great need to tape the slip ring just don't rotate it, if you do want to tape it then it will be obvious when you have the cowling off. The slip ring only fits one way and it's doweled to the steering column so you can't really get it wrong. I normally remove them and then place it carefully on top of the dashboard out of the way so as not to disturb it.

You'll proably have some warnings on the dash insert when you first power up the car, once you've done the coding then drive it for a few yards in a straight line and this should clear them.
 
You use your finger for the rear release clip for the steering ecu & the drill bit for the front narrow hole to release this clip, I personally would never recommend removing the plastic housing trim of the ecu to get the unit of given the very fragile pin connections that arent exactly solid on the pcb anyway, but each to there own.

Steering wheel & the spline are usually marked with a line anyway for centering, its indented into the metal, but I always work of center anyway, but yes you dont have to tape it but if you are not aware of the slip ring functionality & start playing with turning this then you'll end up in **** from the get go as it cant be turned even once, so I personally advise to tape the inner & outer of the slip ring in place, this will be obvious when you see the part what I mean.

Seal is irrelevant tbh & I dont tend to disconnect battery myself but hey if it makes you feel better the go for it mate & as per Stu, the errors should clear upon short drive, only stay if new ecu detected & requires calibrating for steering angle, assist etc etc
 
Thanks Guy's. I hope to do it this weekend if the parts come (there on back order at Audi).

Hopefully you'll all be about at the weekend as if I get into difficulty (and I'm sure/hope I won't) I can post some comments. Might even do a full 'how to' guide for others.

Got the stalk from my localk Audi dealer. Phoned Stoke Audi first but with postage it was a little dearer. I was checky and asked for some discount at my local dealership.

Had difficulty getting a 12mm spline tool, but have managed to borrow one now.
 
Well the cruise control has now been fitted and works fine. :)

Not too bad took me about 3 and half hours most of which was trying to get the steering control module off (what a Barstool!).

Connected everything back up and got steering angle, steering assist and ESP errors but managed to clear all fault codes.

THE ISSUE - my main beam now wont work, well it only flashes and doesn't click in the forward position and stay on. There's no way I have broken it as there are no external parts on the stalk which could be damaged. I think its faulty.

How do you guys think I should go about this, phone Audi and tell them their part is faulty and ask for a replacement? Take the car in and ask them to replace it or take the stalk off and return it as faulty.

I can see them saying that as it wasn't professionally fitted I have to take responsibility. However, as I have mentioned there is nothing externally that I could have broken and it hasn't been forced or anything.

Cheers

Neil
 

Similar threads