took the baffle out of my turbo intake pipe

nick-barnes07

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took the baffle out of my oem turbo charge pipe earlier as i had to fit a new lamnda to my downpipe , and it made a noticable difference , seems like the car spools up a bit quicker and there is a deeper note to the exhaust on full throttle , dont know if it has been posted before so i thought i would post it , definately worth doing , only took me 20 mins ,
 
Why is the baffle in there in the first place? It surely has some function?
 
i think the baffle is in there to restrict the noise a bit , there are plenty of bits on cars that can be modified , the baffle is at the top of the turbo intake pipe where it gets bigger , you have to cut it out ,
 
the baffle is not replacable , but the charge pipe is , places like mij performance and gt tuning sell chrome charge pipes without the baffles in ,
 
You mean the metal boost pipe not TIP, the TIP is made from rubber and goes from your airbox -> turbo
 
the metal pipe chucks air to the intercooler so i would say its a charge pipe not a intake, it ain't taking anything in, the intake is the rubber pipe from the air box
 
sandip said:
the metal pipe chucks air to the intercooler so i would say its a charge pipe not a intake, it ain't taking anything in, the intake is the rubber pipe from the air box

it definately made a difference when i took the metal baffle out ,
 
had a look today, how did you cut it out? what did you use? easy to take everything apart just wasn't sure how and what to cut it with
 
my mate done it with a air line , and a saw that run of the air line , took him less than 20 mins , you would be there all day if you were to do it by hand
 
Nick if it aint too much trouble do you reckon you could take a snap of your fine work
cheers m8
 
Ok i've just done this mod.
Beginners BEWARE this mod its not easy with the incorrect tools .... infact it quite brutal.

I used a hacksaw, 2x drill bits one long bout 5mm and one 3mm short, a hammer and a chisel.
Check out the pictures.
What you need to do is cut off the very edge of the end lip only about 3mm so that you leave the lip remaing for the clamp.
After that the baffle lip will show, hammer this off ... its cast alloy and breaks easy. Then you need to drill down the baffle frames (this will make sense when you there doing it) drill down at half inch spaces all around the pipe to weaken the baffle frames. BECAREFUL not to drill the side of the charge pipe!
Then pretty much just break it to pieces with the hammer and chisel.
Hope this helps ...... im off to test drive now. Will post back later with what i expect to be insignificant results.
Cheers
ps pictures were with cam phone so not the best

Image021.jpg

Image022.jpg

Image023.jpg

audis3_3.jpg
 
Performance Increase ......... Na i dunno possibly a small amount, the car did seem fast today.
So the VERDICT: if your bored and want to fill in a couple hours then go for it, your may gain a little ..... and every little does add up i spose.
 
would filling the baffle holes with a chemical metal work? instead of completely butchering the pipe, or would the heat be to much as a product i know (JB weld) says its stable at very high temps.
what you lot think?
 
no way man filling in the holes restricts the pipe size
i should have taken a pic of the finished product cause its not butchered at all it came out well looks completely oe inside.
all i was saying is that your have to be a bit of a butcher to get there.
get it done you'll see
 
can you imagine if some chemical metal came loose and got into the engine
 
Yeah nasty! Guess i should have mentioned CLEAN THE PIPE before installing. I used carb cleaner and the hose to wash it right out, then left it to dry before putting it on my car.
Really you would have to be stupid to put it straight back on with out cleaning it though!
 
You'll get a fairly evil roar off the charge pipe when you've removed the sliencer.

I did mine years ago and smoothed out and polished the insides...and when running 1.85+ bar boost, it gave a really evil rushing-air type sound.

Can't say I got a gain out of it either...
 
HTC said:
What a completely pointless mod. When did AS.net become chav central :)

I don't think it's pointless...
But only if you are really pushing the limits of the K04.

Removing any restrictions in the charge pipework (removing the sliencer/restrictor from the chargepipe, fitting better flowing ICc, smoothing out the TB etc) will add up to giving smoother airflow and less pressure drop / better throttle response in high boost applications.

A lot of work for a little gain though...unless you really are pushing the limits of the K04.
 
Two steps really...

The air opens up to fill the chamber, then has to squeeze back into the pipe size...although it does that standard as the silencer is perforated.

Opening up the resonance chamber is what gives the additional noise, I think.

I see your point about the step though...which is why I smoothed out and polished the inside of the pipe to minimise turbulence.
 
i've done mine this morning. simple took me 30mins instead of hacksawing the edge i just used my grider and ground off about 1mm and then drilled one hole and the rest just smashed up into little bits! LOL
seems to spool up quicker but i can't here anymore noise. less of a whoosh more of a groan now. hitting 21psi peak on my boost gauge and sitting at 18/19psi. nice
 
Yeah it does leave a lip about 4 inchs down the pipe. But on the plus side your opening up the inlet of the pipe by 3/4 of an inch. Over all its got to be better, debatable if its werth the time though.

and HTC you have got no right to make that comment. All sorts of interesting mods have come up on this web site, some of them good, some of them not it's up to the individuals opinion. Dont go calling people chav's from the comfort of your computer room chair!!
Especially with a Yellow 1.8t!
 
242spot said:
and HTC you have got no right to make that comment. All sorts of interesting mods have come up on this web site, some of them good, some of them not it's up to the individuals opinion. Dont go calling people chav's from the comfort of your computer room chair!!
Especially with a Yellow 1.8t!

HTC has got every right to say what he thinks, just as you have.

I also agree with him to an extent, however not about this thread but there are definately other threads that scream Chav to me.
 
god_thats_quick said:
HTC has got every right to say what he thinks, just as you have.

That's the truth...
I just wish everyone would accept that...opinions are opinions.


I also agree with him to an extent, however not about this thread but there are definately other threads that scream Chav to me.

Sadly, that's also the truth...
The standards are dropping on here...
 
people have got every right to express what they think on a forum , but it is not a chav mod , putting 20" spinners is a chav mod with a 5" exhaust tip
 
As with most modifications of this type ie - ported throttle bodie etc . No gains in bhp are ever found but small benifits in throttle response are generally noticed , So considering its free and you have the time i can't see why its pointless but dont expect to much ?
 
stevess3 said:
As with most modifications of this type ie - ported throttle bodie etc . No gains in bhp are ever found but small benifits in throttle response are generally noticed , So considering its free and you have the time i can't see why its pointless but dont expect to much ?

I don't agree about the "No gains in bhp are ever found" bit...

I gained 1.5 BHP peak by porting my 2.0 16v ABF throttle body...swapped it back and forth on the dyno, got 1.5 BHP each time.
Now I know Dyno accuracy is only a few %...but swapping it in gave 1.5 BHP more, swapping back to standard, 1.5 BHP less.
I'd say that was a gain.

Not much...but you do sometimes see gains.

You put a corrado VR6 TB onto a Golf VR6 and you'll get 3-5 BHP with no other mods.
 
Ess_Three said:
I don't agree about the "No gains in bhp are ever found" bit...

I gained 1.5 BHP peak by porting my 2.0 16v ABF throttle body...swapped it back and forth on the dyno, got 1.5 BHP each time.
Now I know Dyno accuracy is only a few %...but swapping it in gave 1.5 BHP more, swapping back to standard, 1.5 BHP less.
I'd say that was a gain.

Not much...but you do sometimes see gains.

You put a corrado VR6 TB onto a Golf VR6 and you'll get 3-5 BHP with no other mods.
I got a good gain with bored out corrado throttle body instead of stock one on my 2.9 mk2 jetta,golf version is shockingly restrictive,whats that big lump about?
 
Ahh...the 'ramps'?
It speeds up air flow ar small throtte openings to make the transition from closed throttle to slight throttle smoother...but it robs top end power.

I've removed the ramps from my ABF TB...that was the gain of 1.5 BHP.

I've done 3 or 4 Golf VR6 TBs...going to a Corrado VR6 TB which is also a different shape (more in line with the airflow) and removeing the small ramps on it gives 3-5 BHP on all the cars I've tried it on....but it feels like much more with it's better upper rev range pulling.
 

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