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  1. #281
    jcb
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    custom fab? must have been pricey

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  3. #282
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcb View Post
    custom fab? must have been pricey
    Cheaper than Audi's 13,5 kilo item.

  4. #283
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    Removed the wiring harness, ready for modification. Includes removal of the auto box ECU / connector, replacement of the main ECU connector with the VEMS one...



    Flywheel fitted to S8 motor...



    6 speed gearbox trial fitted, to determine timing reference...




  5. #284
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    Timing sensor location...



    Engine's on TDC, in theory the 2 missing teeth should be close by. But, it would appear the 60-2 teeth location is different between auto and manual cars.

    Each tooth is 6 degrees. The sensor location on the transmission is 11 teeth before the timing reference. The orange paint denotes the sensor location with the transmission removed.

    So, the EMS will be mapped to recognise the settings...




  6. #285
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    Awesome project, all I can say is that your car looks meaner in real life and lower also. Often see it when I am biking to work.

  7. #286
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    Spot on loving the work... just had my engine apart. Isnt there a spacer plate that sits between the box and the block on manual cars?
    Ming Blue A4 B5 RS4 Replica (SOLD)

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  8. #287
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    Great, awesome, amazing job !....

  9. #288
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    i think the spacer is to accomodate the dual mass flywheel?

    Do you have to shorten the input shaft on the gearbox when bolting it up without this plate?

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
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    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
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  10. #289
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    The timing ring looks bolted on, can you not remove it and replace closer?

  11. #290
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    Quote Originally Posted by Byzan A4 View Post
    The timing ring looks bolted on, can you not remove it and replace closer?
    Timing ring is not bolted on.

    It's in the correct place, and machined directly into the flywheel.

  12. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by aragorn View Post
    i think the spacer is to accomodate the dual mass flywheel?

    Do you have to shorten the input shaft on the gearbox when bolting it up without this plate?
    Spacer is for DMF, yes.
    Not required here.

    The stock propshaft has enough plunge to acommodate the tranny without the spacer, which is 11,2mm.

    But just in case, I have an RS4 propshaft too.

  13. #292
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    Quote Originally Posted by tombee View Post
    Awesome project, all I can say is that your car looks meaner in real life and lower also. Often see it when I am biking to work.
    You live local to me then?

  14. #293
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    Yes I do mate.. Ipswich.. I don't have a Audi any more tho I have a E34 M5 but looking to get a S4.

  15. #294
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    Hmm. Haven't seen any M5's lately down here.

  16. #295
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    Quote Originally Posted by Siena View Post
    Hmm. Haven't seen any M5's lately down here.
    She doesn't come out too much.. Maybe could meet up to see each others cars.

  17. #296
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    Quote Originally Posted by tombee View Post
    She doesn't come out too much.. Maybe could meet up to see each others cars.
    That'll be cool.

  18. #297
    jcb
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    re using the flywheel bolts? thought they were stretch items...

  19. #298
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    They're not stretch bolts on the S8.

  20. #299
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    The S4 / RS4 bolts with 17mm hex head are stretch items.

    S8 with 15mm hex head are not.

  21. #300
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    Quote Originally Posted by Siena View Post
    Spacer is for DMF, yes.
    Not required here.

    The stock propshaft has enough plunge to acommodate the tranny without the spacer, which is 11,2mm.

    But just in case, I have an RS4 propshaft too.
    Ohhh crap, i have just installed my SM flywheel and retained the spacer plate will having it on damage my new clutch? or should i take it off ASAP?
    Ming Blue A4 B5 RS4 Replica (SOLD)

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  22. #301
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy.B View Post
    Ohhh crap, i have just installed my SM flywheel and retained the spacer plate will having it on damage my new clutch? or should i take it off ASAP?
    Spacer plate?

    How thick is it? If it's thick enough, it wouldn't damage your clutch, it'll just mean your clutch slave cylinder piston will have further to travel, before it actually pushes the pivot arm.

    It could also cause difficulty in engaging gear, as the clutch pedal will reach its stop, long before the actuating pivot arm does...

  23. #302
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    Its the standard audi spacer plate between the box and the block for the 1.8T prob around 1.5mm thick IIRC. The clutch works very well and has no chatter or problems engaging / disengaging.
    Ming Blue A4 B5 RS4 Replica (SOLD)

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  24. #303
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    Ah, you'rs isn't actually a spacer.

    More of an engine backplate, so that's fine.

  25. #304
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    the thin dust sheild thingy? I cannot see it being a problem,dont worry

  26. #305
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    Thanks guys top advise
    Ming Blue A4 B5 RS4 Replica (SOLD)

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  27. #306
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    RS4 propshaft to enable fitment of S4 DSY 6-speed tranny...




  28. #307
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    Well guys, updates have been slow in coming along.

    I've been pretty busy, between setting up my business, getting the website set up, organising my "getting hitched" for next autumn, I haven't had a great deal of time for Outlaw.

    But, the hard work's almost over, haven't slept properly for 3 weeks.
    I can now focus on Outlaw. Anybody got front driveshafts for a 1.8T / V6 manual FWD?

    Still need to buy a clutch, then all the ingredients are at hand.

  29. #308
    jcb
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    I have two front drive shafts off my 1.8t minus inner CV's.
    kept those for the RS4 hybrids I am running to mate with the RS4 hub carriers.
    any use?

  30. #309
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    Lol, no. I specifically need them with the 108mm inners, to mate to the S4 6-speed box.

  31. #310
    A4 2.4 30V PES Supercharged

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    Quote Originally Posted by Siena View Post
    Lol, no. I specifically need them with the 108mm inners, to mate to the S4 6-speed box.
    Havent been on here for over a year now due to illness, thanks for making me smile, one hell of a project. I'm def getting a supercharger for my 30v now, you have inspired me thanks.
    A4 2.4 30V

  32. #311
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    Good to have you back, McKay. Hope you're better now.

  33. #312
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    I done a timing belt and waterpump kit on a B5 RS4 today.

    Has covered 93,000 miles, and had a stage 3+ clutch fitted at 68,000.

    The clutch feels very heavy, he hasn't gotten used to it in all this time.

    I've decided to go for a stock RS4 clutch for my car, will be ordering it next week.

    I still need a pair of driveshafts, off a manual B5 1,8T/V6 FWD. There've been enough cars breaking on here of late, someone must have a pair. C'mon guys!

  34. #313
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    My clutch turned up today - pressure plate, friction disc and release bearing.

    Also got a needle bearing, as the S8 was an outo, and had a steel bush inserted in the crank, to support the torque converter.

    Still after a pair of 1,8T/V6 FWD driveshafts, else I'll just have to purchase them new as well.

  35. #314
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    So come on Siena, when is the likely completion date of the project?

    These constant cliffhangers are killing us!!!
    Mo power, mo problems

  36. #315
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    BT, it'll be done once I have everything in place, I'll never pull a daily driver apart, untill every conceivable part is to hand.

    Getting married next year too, so that's definitely a priority.

  37. #316
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    Can the drive shafts be removed and still leave a car capable of being pushed in and out of a garage ?
    MY15 8V S3 Sportback with options

  38. #317
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    Yes, they can.

    Obviously, you couldn't tow the car a great distance without ruining the wheel bearings, but if the car's a breaker, it wouldn't matter.

  39. #318
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    Ok can you drop me a PM on how to remove them and I'll have a pair of V6 shafts off this weekend for you.
    MY15 8V S3 Sportback with options

  40. #319
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    Auroan, you need to undo the central hub bolt.
    Very tight, so needs to be done with the weight of the car on the wheels, and wheels firmly braked / chocked.

    Then with the car raised and supported, remove both front wheels.
    Disconnect both lower arms, and the uprights should pull away from the driveshaft splines.

    Next is the inner CV-to-transmission bolts.
    These are spline-headed bolts, and it's wise to make sure they are free of grit, so the spline tool can be firmly tapped into the heads. If the spline bits arent fully inserted, you run the risk of stripping the splines.

    Once all 6 per side are undone, you may need to lightly tap the inner CV's with a soft mallet, then they should crack free. Withdraw them from the outside, job done.

    You'll just need to re-connect the uprights to the lower arms, then the car can be pushed.

  41. #320
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    cool, lets see how I go on Sat !
    MY15 8V S3 Sportback with options

 

 

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