S3 Tuning from DTUK/Shark Performance.

Scott said:

I had my Mk6 GTI mapped by Shark and it triggered the TD1 code. After that, I had a replacement water pump, clutch, slave cylinder and other work. The dealership (and I believe VW UK) were aware of the TD1, and told me so, but still performed the warranty work without issue. I would be more careful in future, but it's worth baring in mind that the TD1 isn't the end of the world (at least, it wasn't for me) but I think a tuning box is now more desirable for me. I really need to see it being fitted and removed to 'sell it' to me though. I can't be ***** spending hours at the side of the motorway in the rain/dark if the car breaks down and needs recovering, in order to remove the tuning box before the car is recovered to an Audi dealership.

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It would take 10 - 15 mins tonrevert my MTM i think! i got a brand new cage and the sheer head bolts and little socket wrench in the car already. i might have to swallow the m-cantronic harness though

I've had the DTUK box fitted this evening and first impressions are very good. It is currently set to zero but I believe +2 was used to achieve the figures quoted, so I will have a play when I have time to do some testing and make sure it runs ok.

A few observations and questions:

I don't think the fitting is as simple as it's made out to be and removal will be equally as difficult. To install the plug at the front left (bottom) of the engine (sorry, can't remember what it's for), the car needs to be jacked, placed on axle stands, the engine tray removed and then the plug installed or removed as required. I've tried doing it through the engine bay and it would be very difficult in my opinion, although if you insist it's possible, I will give it another go tomorrow to be sure.

Apart from this, the rest is ok.

I thought of a potential workaround, which could be a connection mid way from this sensor to the box, which could be disconnected, leaving half of the cabling from the sensor/plug to the join/connection in place, and this can be looped back with a separate plug if the box/harness was removed. This would probably be ok for servicing/warranty work and wouldn't be as noticeable. .. if this makes sense.

ABYSS, do you know what figures (PS and Nm) were previously achieved on the default setting of zero compared to +2 ?

Are there any issues with increasing it to +1 or +2 .. e.g. if it runs ok now, is it likely to be affected by temperature increases in the summer and cause the car to go into limp mode. Is it safer for me to leave it as zero, or is it pretty much no risk, if it works ok straight away when testing? I'd hate to have problems in the future by pushing it too far, when the variables such as weather change?

Cheers,
Scott

Also, I know there are different programs available but there's no info on them (unless I've missed it)...... is it best to leave it alone?

Hi, I sure I read about teh TD1 code and it is triggers by the stored logs in the ECU of things like boost and PSI etc or something that have exceeded the "normal" that the spec of the diags tool is expecting. So even if there isnt a new map on the ECU the logs will show more boost, pressure etc surely? So still get a TD1?

Does this box trigger the code then? Or is it risk free as far as warranty work goes?

ABYSS said:

There's only one programme on the box Scott

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Thank you Andrew, and thanks for your advice earlier on the phone. Highly recommend!