Badger5Chris Nott

42 Visitor Messages

  1. View Conversation
    I didn`t remove any fuses while removing the door card and from what I can remember I may have had the ignition on, therefore the amp may have been live. I hadn`t tested the sony`s until i had fitted them into the door card and installed in the car..stupid i know..just assumed they`d work straight from the box...i`ll be testing the others before install just to make sure. My door card is in but not sitting correctly, so when i re-fit i`l check the wiring and see if the connectors are fully engaged. (was a rush fitting as it was starting to rain)
    Is it ok to switch the HU on to try and test the new sony`s without risk of damaging them? or should i wait until theyre wired from the new HU when the Bose amp is bypassed?
  2. It must be a fault at the amp then, even if you wired them back to front they would still work, you'd just get a bit of bass cancellation from the other speakers. Are you sure the Sony's are working? What happens if you refit the old Bose speakers? All I can think is that you may have been working on the wiring while the Bose amp was turned on, but that's a long shot. Nothing else should have blown the output stage on the amp unless the Sony speaker is shorting/faulty.
  3. View Conversation
    I cut and isolated the OEM tweeter leads separately (close to the connector block), and crimped onto the two cables for other speaker.
  4. What did you do with the existing wiring running to the OEM tweeter?
  5. View Conversation
    Yes the Bose speakers were working, the cable from the Bose amp to the female connector in the door is OEM. The sony tweeter (4 ohm) with capacitor inline (+) is wired in parallel with the 2-way sony speaker (4 ohm) using the sony supplied cable, which i have then through crimped onto the OEM male connector. I checked and tested for continuity from the male pins to each respective terminal on the speakers - all ok. I also noted that the polarity on the Bose wiring differs from that of sony`s and changed over.

    Sony

    Red +
    Red Black -

    Bose (noted from speaker markings, not from a wiring diagram so I may be wrong)

    Green -
    Green & Black +

    Cheers

    Gaz
  6. No, the only effect of using a higher impedance speaker is that you get less power delivered from the amp. the fact you're getting no power at all means either your connections aren't connecting, or you've shorted out that channel on the Bose amp somehow. Was the Bose speaker working before? Are you using the original wiring, and if so how have you connected the Sony speaker?
    Cheers, Andy
  7. View Conversation
    Alrite Andy, just a quick one.
    As part of my audio upgrade which you have been helping me out with (post in ICE forum), I replaced the original Bose speaker and tweeter in my drivers door with a 4 ohm impedance sony`s. (All other speakers and HU factory standard (symphony & bose 2 ohm). To check they were working, I turned on the the HU on to test but got no sound what so ever, even when fading all of the sound to the front right. Is this normal due to an "unbalanced load" or because the bose/nokia origanal amp is still in circuit supplying the speakers (soon to be bypassed).
    Cheers
    Gaz
  8. hi andy u had any takers for your new stealth sub tryout?
  9. The normal interface is a 13 pin socket, but it's quite a way back in the cubbyhole past the rear seatbelt reel. Sounds like the previous owner had anaftermarket changer and used an additional interface to get it to work, thus the phono plugs. If you trace the phono plugs back they should plug into the OEM lead further back in the cubbyhole (towards the front of the car).
    To connect an iPOD you just need an xcarlink or Dension ICELink. This plugs into the changer port on the back of the HU and fools the HU into thinking a changer is connected, so allows the iPOD to play via the line in connections, so no loss of quality.
    Cheers, Andy
  10. Hi andy, i am wondering if you can help me... i have a a3 ts year 99. the guy that had it before me has taken the mutli changer from the boot... i had a look at the cables that are left and all i can see are 2 phono leads. Can you tell me what these are for as they dont look like the ones i need to replace the changer.

    The more reseach i do, i am thinking that if i can connect my ipod into my concert unit i would do this rather than install a new changer as my ipod is where all my music is... can this be done whilst keeping a good sound quality.
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