Telephone signals

jojo

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Is it possible for BT(or any telephone service provider) to reduce the telephone signal?

I've recently got a problem with my caller id at work, it's worked fine for 6yrs up until 2 weeks ago, so I thought my caller id module had broke. No problem, I purchased a new one off fleabay, and still the same problem.

The thing is, I have a telephone, caller id module and computer all hooked up to the same line, but only the caller id module can't pick up the number signal. If however, I disconnect the phone, it works again. I've tried a different phone, and it's the same problem.

Anyone got any ideas? Really need it all to work to keep things running smoothly at work.
 
Can you not just get a phone with caller id built in, so you can do away with the seperate caller id module?
 
1) How are all these gadgets physically connected to the line? (How many actual sockets, how many splitters (and where)?)

2) Do you have an NT5 master socket? If you've more than one socket an NT5 is larger than the others, and the face is visibly split in two portions - the actual socket and two screws being in the lower portion.

Problems like those you're having tend to be down to voltage drop somewhere - that could either be between the pole and your place, or somewhere in your internal loop. NT5's can and do fail (or are toasted by lightning etc.), and they cause all kinds of weird s**t when they do.

Let us know...

Rob.
 
Can you not just get a phone with caller id built in, so you can do away with the seperate caller id module?

The module keeps track of calls throughout the night, keeps memory of last 70 numbers.

1) How are all these gadgets physically connected to the line? (How many actual sockets, how many splitters (and where)?)

2) Do you have an NT5 master socket? If you've more than one socket an NT5 is larger than the others, and the face is visibly split in two portions - the actual socket and two screws being in the lower portion.

Problems like those you're having tend to be down to voltage drop somewhere - that could either be between the pole and your place, or somewhere in your internal loop. NT5's can and do fail (or are toasted by lightning etc.), and they cause all kinds of weird s**t when they do.

Let us know...

Rob.

Where do I start Rob, it's kind of complex, but I have tried to plud the caller ID unit directly to the socket, then run the splitters after it, and still the same problem. I'm curious if the phone is at fault? As my spare one is the exact same model, but I've never had this problem before until recently?

Wiring in the building is prehistoric though, and the computer has no problem recognising the caller id.
 
Is your main socket one like this:

http://www.binarybob.plus.com/matt/nte5.jpg

...If it is, the first thing to try is remove the two screws, and you'll see a 'service' socket behind the plate...

Plugging straight into this will a) bypass the rest of the loop in the building, b) bypass the electronics in the face-plate (as it's in your other hand/on the floor!) which do the jiggery-pokery to the voltage on the A&B wires, and add the 3rd ring wire.

Plug-in to that and test (preferably ADSL filter first, then CLI box, then splitters for phones etc.) - don't rely on it as a permanent solution though - and be careful (although there's no great risk - pins in position 2 & 5 will have ~50v on them).

Let me know what you find (or if the socket isn't an NTE5 type)

Rob.
 
Is your main socket one like this:

http://www.binarybob.plus.com/matt/nte5.jpg

...If it is, the first thing to try is remove the two screws, and you'll see a 'service' socket behind the plate...

Plugging straight into this will a) bypass the rest of the loop in the building, b) bypass the electronics in the face-plate (as it's in your other hand/on the floor!) which do the jiggery-pokery to the voltage on the A&B wires, and add the 3rd ring wire.

Plug-in to that and test (preferably ADSL filter first, then CLI box, then splitters for phones etc.) - don't rely on it as a permanent solution though - and be careful (although there's no great risk - pins in position 2 & 5 will have ~50v on them).

Let me know what you find (or if the socket isn't an NTE5 type)

Rob.

Yes, socket looks like the on as pictured, I will give it a bash tomorrow, as I'm taking a day off! lol
 
OK, give things a go plugged-in to that service socket.

IF everything work's, either a) an extension socket (or wiring to it) somewhere inside the building (if you have any) is the problem, OR (more likely) the face-plate of the NTE5 is goosed.

The good news is that if it's the face-plate, you might even get away without having to replace the whole socket. Most 'pattern' replacements are close enough that the plug on the back of the face-plate will line-up with any other base - genuine BT or other-pattern; I can't guarantee it, but you'd be unlucky to get one that doesn't fit. BUT, the bit you might want to take notice of, is the number of contacts on the 'plug' bit, there'll be either 4 or 6 copper contacts. You want to make sure the new one has the same number. If you get stuck, late-model BT spec will have 4 contacts, more of the pattern copies will have 6 rather than 4, but you'll find plenty about in whatever style you need. Any specific questions, let me know, and if you need the info rapid, you've got my number.

Also, if it turns out a) you were unlucky and need to replace the entire socket, let me know. There are matters of legality and fiddliness to deal with; also, if using the service socket doesn't fix the problem, we need to think about what else could be the problem (and realistically would have to start looking toward the pole/branch).

Rob.
 
Joey if you get stuck & Rob's not about, give me a shout as I was a system installer.

Sounds like a REN issue to me tbh if the CLI unit works when other devices are unplugged.

Tell me this, if you plug in another handset in place of the CLI unit, does that ring at all, thats with everything plugged in as originally & a phone in place of the unit?
 
Sorry for the late replies guys, I've had my hands full of late, and can't work on it during opening hours, just incase I break something. Anyways, I took on board what Rob said with the wiring getting toasted by light, which I guess is heat related, and realised my router was sitting on the wire. I moved the router out the way and after an hour, it started to work again!

The wiring for my shop is prehistoric, so maybe due a rewire of some systems, and a relocation of a few things also whilst I'm at it.
 
Guess if the copper is that out the sheathing was crap too lol, anyway good result.