Only the UK weather to contend with now!
Only the UK weather to contend with now!
hehe, hope it all goes to plan, i dont want to be fitting the old turbo to my engine and then have to take it off again in a few weeks/days!
I've got the use of the L200 from work so even if it doesn't get finished at the weekend it will get finished throughout the week. The turbo will be at Inters for you with a pretty pink bow on lol.
...as long as the Garrett doesn't explode that is!!!
Now i just need to convince the missus that while we're skint, going to Inters is actually a good idea :P
Inters is always good but if you can't make it then I can always post.. don't worry I'll still put a bow on it.
I decided to replace the oil feed that I was planning to use for the Garrett turbo because on closer inspection it was very poor quality.
I went for Earl's performance Super Stock oil hose, X2 push fit -4AN hose ends, X1 -4AN to M12x1.5 adapter to bolt into the oil cooler and a -4AN to 7/16x24tpi to bolt into the turbo.
I also ordered some stainless protective braid to cover the hose with from Ebay.
It is sprung yes as i ordered an RS4 clutch and that was and obviously its the same style.
Over the past week or so I have made steady progress with the Garrett turbo conversion..
I started by removing the air box, MAF, intake pipes, recirc pipes, heat shields, DV valve and any other associated parts..
Then I removed the turbo, water feed & drain, oil feed & drain..
The first attempt to remove the exhaust manifold didn't go to plan. I couldn't get enough purchase on the centre studs (they were actually Allen bolts as it would've been almost impossible to install it with studs and locking nuts) and eventually I had to grind the manifold away to get some heavy duty tools on it. The manifold had a large crack in it anyway so was destined for the bin..
I started to install the new manifold and one of the studs pulled clean out of the hole. The thread had been re-coiled previously and the coil had become loose..
Luckily Mark came to the rescue and posted me a re-coil kit the following day so I installed a new coil/thread.
For the second time I started to install the new manifold and one of the studs sheared off and got stuck in the head :( I had to drill the stud out but luckily already had the re-coil kit so used it for the second time.
Third time lucky and the manifold went on correctly..
I then installed the turbo, routed in the new water and oil connections, TIP, MAF and temporarily the downpipe..
I still need to bolt the downpipe on, cut the current exhaust and link them together. The dump valve needs installing and I'm planning on making a couple of brackets to add a bit more support for the turbo as it is currently relying on the manifold flange only.
Fingers crossed she'll be running for GTI International on Sunday...
Oh yeah I also need to insert the ports/connections for the N75 boost control valve, one on the TIP for the recirculation and one in the boost pipe.
Gonna drive to GTI on wastegate pressure on the stock ECU?
If you've fitted the MAF you'll need to fit the matching injectors or you'll run mega lean and pop codes.
Might have to bodge the old MAF back on for now as there's no chance of getting the injectors cleaned and fitted in time.
You could always buy one of the ultrasonic cleaners from maplins and do them yourself like a lot of people have done on the 8L A3/S3 side of the forum have done.
Yeah I might give it a go but just haven't got enough time to get it done before Sunday unfortunately.
You've had like 2 years preparing this conversion, and havent had time to clean the injectors? :detective2:
Only takes 15 minutes i think people said. Other than obviously going out and buying one lol
Fitted the Forge dump valve on the cold side yesterday..
As long as it's not raining too heavily this evening I'll get the exhaust cut and linked to the down pipe.
I have now completed the install and overall I'm pleased with the outcome :happy:
Everything went together well (I won't say easily because that would be a lie) and after an initial scare of an odd metallic sound and smoke that appeared to be coming from the turbo hot side I am now pleased with how the turbo is functioning.
The metallic sound turned out to be one of the downpipe clamps catching a heat shield when the exhaust warmed up which was vibrating through the exhaust to the turbo; this was easily solved by rotating the clamp.
The smoke was a mixture of left over oil on the turbo and the gasket between the turbo and exhaust manifold flanges which had a chrome type finish. For some reason the actual gasket was producing smoke for a good half an hour of use, once whatever was causing the smoke on the gasket had burnt off the smoke cleared.
I'm only running on actuator pressure at the minute (N75 boost control is unplugged) with the standard MAF and injectors. I will hopefully soon fit a new clutch and then try to find a suitable tuner. I will be fitting Bosch red injectors and swapping to my 3" MAF housing when tune time comes.
The car runs well and sounds good; I will get some more engine bay shots later and hopefully some kind of video too.
You putting a heat shield in there mate for the green induction filter thats a knats cock from the turbo?
No I don't think so. I'm going with the theory that the only time it'll be sucking in warm air is when I'm standing still and as soon as I accelerate/begin to move the engine bay will be flooded with cool air.
Yeh it'll be fine i recon, especially if you duct some air from the front scoop into the area.
Your ignition amp needs a heatsink or you'll fry it, take the original sink out of the airbox and fit it to the bottom of the amp.
I also wouldnt be driving it hard at all, as your fuellings likely to be quite a way out, especially up the top end of the rev range.
I was in two minds about the heat sink but I will take your word for it and bolt it back on tonight.
Yes, I will be leaving my lead shoes at home until she's been mapped.
Thats a far cry from "dont put an induction kit on because of heat soak" so many bods preach on here. Never been one of them and I agree with your reasoning Lee.
Well it's got two chances lol. If there's a noticeable influence from heat soak then I'll look into the options but there are plenty of massive power cars out there with little or no kind of heatshield so we'll see...
I went for a proper drive last night and all seems to be ok.
I have added a bracket to support the ignition control module (now with heatsink reattached.. cheers aragorn) and the N80 valve. I have also added some heat wrap to prevent the cables close to the turbo/downpipe from melting..
I now need to find a tuner. JBS say that they can do it using Custom Code stage 3 mapping (custom tune) but the price on the steep side.
I am going to contact R-tech tuning for a quote etc. They would be ideal as they are only a few miles away from my house.
I think rtech are where i'd be going, and its one advantage of FWD!
AFAIK they dont have 4WD rollers yet.
Yeah, I'd imagine they'll be able to sort me out.
Be good to know if they can sort you out. If they can do these older ECU`s without worries that`ll be straight where im going.
Even if they don't work with our ECUs I'm certain that they work with ME3s so it'd only require a quick swap.
Could be wrong but i think a post came up the other week about how the later ecu and stuff started in 97 after a certain chassis number which mine luckily was just within so could be a go on the capabilities to chip and map. I hope that was the case anyway. Will try and find the thread/posts to double check.
EDIT: Was this one..
Yeah but they're still a chip out job.. The ME3 is flashable so from a tuners point of view would be easier to work with.
I think the main benefit of the newer ECU (97 onward) is that the chips are still available where as the chips for the older ECU are very rare now.
As long as you have the newer wiring loom then AFAIK the ME3 is a straight swap, so no real problem.
Aye i know its still a chip out jobbie. Fingers crossed Rtech can do it without changing ECU as thats who i`d most prefer to do it.
I am getting a fault code for mixture adaptation limit exceeded (ADD) so it seems that the injectors can't match the airflow (on actuator pressure only). My Bosch red top injectors should be back with me today/tomorrow and should be fully cleaned/serviced with before and after information; I will be fitting the 3" MAF and injectors to see if this overcomes the fueling issue until I can get it tuned properly.
Additive mixture is an airleak more likely
You'd get a Charge limit exceeded code (or similar) if you were flowing too much air mate.
I'd like to see someone put an air temp sensor near the inlet/air filter and actually prove if the under bonnet temps go down. Why would racecar builders/designers spend so much time and money to reduce inlet air temps.
Because in racing every 1/10th of a second counts.
If your trying to suggest that when driving along the road at 30mph, the engine bay is like a furnace, you need to stick your head out the window while doing 30mph and see just how much air is going to be flowing thru the engine bay, even at what is a pretty low speed.
I will measure intake temps when she's tuned up and compare to a similar setup with air box or heatshield to see what the difference is and then we'll know either way.