Got till AITP for me to bring any thing up to you.
not if I find it first you filthy devonian!
But it's only wafer thin spacer
Stop worrying :p
stop being a vagina, the weight a 5mm alloy spacer will add is no more than my left testicle.
dare i say this but, dont halfords sell little cheap spacers like that?
everyones after 17 x 8 wheels now!
and prawn, you can stop whoring for once and let us have some!
How much one wheel and/or wheel + tyre weigths? 1mm of (aluminium) spacer weights about 40 grams so You can calculate with that..
It not just about the weight of everything. A spacer is changining the position o the wheel and effects the feel of the steering.
Plus add in a set of longer bolts even for a 5mm slip on spacer..My front wheel fell off (thankfully only doing like 15mph) with running normal length bolts and 5mm slip ons due to only catching about 3 threads on each bolt. Never again!
The wheels I am looking for are OZ Superleggera (7.2kgs), OZ Ultraleggera (7.7kgs), or Team Dynamic Pro Race (8.9kgs). These wheels are all under 10kgs each without a tyre so there will be a significant weight saving which does make a difference to acceleration, braking, and handling.
Yep, I know.. Stock S3 17" + 245/45 Pirelli summer tyre was 24 kg, my winter wheels (Kosei 7.5x17") + 225/45 winter tyre 21.5kg and current summer setup, 8x18" Ultraleggera + 225/40 Hankook 18.3 kg. Really made difference for handling! Also the tyres can have almost 2kg difference between manufacturers and models in same size.
Spacers are only a problem really if:
a) They're not properly installed (not enough thread (bolts too short) or not torqued correctly) or;
b) They're ****e cheap ones that don't stayed centered (and so result in vibrations)
Out of interest does anyone know what ET I can run with 8J wheels? Will ET38 clear 4 pot callipers and the suspension?
I'm not looking at other options and I will sell these wheels.
It's not the ET, more the spoke design, when it comes to brake clearance. As I've found out recently. Not sure on the clearance suspension wise but 8.5" + 225 at ET20 is near enough flush with the wing...
If you're looking at what I think you are, the TD 'off the shelf' wheels, then forget it.
Call Rimstock direct. tell them you want PR1.2's for trackday / motorsport use, and they will make you a set, to what ever width, offset, pcd, and centre bore you want.
The off the shelf rims are all in crap sizes, and use spigot rings. Call rimstock direct and get exactly what you want.
Considering most people run RSTT's with a 15mm rear and a 10mm front spacer, I'd be looking at getting some 17x8's in ET20 or 25 on the S3
£100 each + the VAT from Rimstock mate so not THAT bad, but I do see where you're coming from.
if it's second hand wheels you're looking for, forget PR1.2's entirely, off the shelf sizes are 17x7 et38 only in 17's, which would be ****e beyond beliefe on your car.
havn't you still got your S3 wheels?
Nothing wrong with a spigot ring really though, if you plan to sell the wheels on later to be used on a car with a larger center bore then it's helpful. They're not really a negative. Really all they do is distribute load if a wheel were to come loose at some stage. Instead of failing sooner, you get a vibration and get a warning and with conical wheel bolts/nuts its less of an issue.
That said, 57.1mm (S3/A3) is seemingly the largest centre bore size for a 5x100 bolt pattern so you should be fine if you want to sell them on later.
in a track use sitation, I'd say no spigot ring is always preferable to having one, whether it SHOULD make a difference or not, I just think it's better without.
Fair enough. I know a couple of guys that compete using them but I guess it's personal preference.
I think I'm going to forget wheels again for the short term. I think Prawn has the best idea. I can contact Rimstock and they can make me any size and offset combination I want of the Team Dynamic Pro Race wheels for around £100 a wheel. They even do them in green out the box so I wouldn't need to refurb them.
In the mean time I think I need to get my engine work finished. I'm currently getting prices for Genesis/Bosch 550cc injectors and adapters then I'll be looking for a mapper.
Good lord! They're not shy!
You might have more luck finding 630cc - there's always loads floating about on VWVortex.
Don't want scope for extra later then? ;)
That's certainly true of the older low impedence Bosch injectors but more modern designed injectors can often be mapped to idle as well, if not better than stock. I have a mate in the UK that runs 1000cc on his evo fq and the idle was better than my stock S3 :) The problem is it takes longer to map those conditions of course so it's often missed. I had my old N/A engine mapped a few times until light throttle and idle was spot on. Flat out is the easy part :)
My K04 is currently scaring most hybrids and 1 BT comes to mind too ;) If I get my way and end up stripping the interior to save some weight then this car will be very capable indeed.
then when you DO bang a hybrid on there it'll be a proper monster! hahaha.
Get 550's dude, capable of running your ko4 nicely now, and a hybrid later on down the line.
Ah man, I'm going to have to grow up at some stage too and buy a house (not here!).
Yeah I must say that's an awesome time for a K04. I'm not sure how the guy here got a 13.7 on an otherwise stock stage 1 k04 + dv! He's super human.
I'm only going GT2871 because he's gone Precision 6262 (massive), otherwise I'd stick with the K04 too for a while I'm sure before a GT30 or something. It's quick enough for me most of the time!
Isn't Welly running monster injectors scaled to work on his ko4 hybrid map still using uni settings?