Who doesnt to be fair lol
Some pics of the S3 backbox I got last night:
Going to get some 3" pipe and an axle grinder and mock up the "Westek" version 1 ;)
Westek VS Karltek
coming to a show near you soon....
Looking good Westy. Looks like you got a good buy.
I tested my WMI on the way home today. I turned the full pump wheel to max (39psi I think) so it was out of the range of what my car can produce. Half pump was currently set at 10psi so I left it there. It was quite happy on half pump over and over again.
I pulled over and adjusted full pump into my boost range, about 19psi and set off again. As soon as full pump kicks in the controller errors.
I have a post up on AEMs site but no response yet.
thought we dont talk about wmi anymore??
dont blame you.
alot of ball ache for little gain?
but then wellys, tufftys, danes were trouble free werent they.
hang in there
Don't think anyone has had a trouble free WMI install yet! Welly had issues with the pumP and its covered in glue, plus he's on his 3rd throttle body now isnt he? Don't think tufty has his working at the moment, and. It sure abouts Dane, perhaps his worked!
Either way, I'm not bothering with it for now. Seems like just something else to complicate things
I need to do some logging and see if the WMI on half pump is actually good enough for the power I'm running. It might be fine just to leave it coming in at half at 12 psi? Id like it to run 100% properly but it may be adequate at half.
I have run wmi for years.. no issues
snow performance kit on badgerwagen currently which replaced the aquamist on there before
wmi definately works
on badgerwagen when first fitted i could add 12 degrees more advance and it remained cold intake after full race durations.
i have run wmi for yeARS
I'm sure it works an absolute dream when it's working. I need to go over all my wiring and double check everything.
Once I've got this thing working it might be the final piece in the puzzle to achieving 300bhp.
Reply from the AEM forum. Quite interesting.
Check the integrity of your ground and power connections to the pump. Doesn't really make sense that the controller would be detecting a short at higher duty cycles because the current draw actually decreases as duty increases. The current inrush is much higher when you run the pump at "partial throttle".
Ey? Are they saying that the pump uses more power when pumping at the lower speed/duty. That defys the laws of physics surely?
I wouldn't ditch the wmi, it's having teething problems but will be great when it's sorted
Oh I think what they mean is that the surge is greater if on lower speed. Is there just one live going to the pump?
Could it be that you need bigger gauge wiring between controller and pump because they're so far apart and the controller senses the resistance in the wire as overload?
Ive run one for a long time... injectors dont max out. Its an 11 year old car and is only on its second fuel pump.
Yes there are more expensive ways around it... There is more than one way to skin a cat in the same way as there is more than one route to the 300 mark
No real issue except there is no real need to use one... everyone seems to think there is but there isn't... its fine if the map has been scaled to take this into account but they do put strain on OEM fuel pumps when there is no need to fit them...
If you have been running one for a while then fine but its really not necessary to fit one
Been posting up on the AEM forum and it looks like 15amp wire is fine:
Does anyone know what the recommended gauge/ampage wire should be used for the pump live feed?
I'm using 15amp cable as I was advised that 15 or 20 amp should be fine. I might try some 20amp cable instead.
Not sure what gauge "20 amp" wire would be but 14 awg wire is generally recommended.
14 gauge pure copper wire. Rated at 15 Amps, 125v, 60hz.
So wire should be fine but I'm going to go over all my wiring next week and double check my earth and live feeds.
You could run a temporary live feed from the battery through passenger window to the pump just to try it out shouldn't take long to knock up that way ;)
You have not pulled a few of the copper strands out of the wire for your stash westy?...:)
Me and a friend tidied up some scrap cable and got just over £300 for 40m ;)
If you used some cable of that size definately doubt you'll see any volt drop but might weigh you down a bit ;)
Was only joking about that size mate ;)
The stuff I stripped out and scrapped was about 20mm diameter
I did some logging and saw lows of 9 degrees AITs with ambient being 4 degrees so I can see the effect that just using water is having! I am however noticing a fair bit of water in the boost hoses:
So, the live feed doesn't seem to be the problem unless the wire i'm using isn't up to the job. It's rated at 15amps so I doubt that.
Next port of call is the earth.
Can anyone think of a way I could get at least 10PSI into the AEM controller boost line without a compressor? I was thinking that using something onto my spare tyre would work but not sure where to get the parts to make one. I also thought about one of those garden sprayers where you can pump it up to the required pressure then fire the air into the boost line.
Could probably do it at work with the little airgun thing they put on the airlines on saturday morning and you could collect the parts and hopefully bring the seat too lol. But depends if you wanted to come into bedford and also wait that long to test it.
How big is the diameter of the line?
Hope you can get this sorted mate, any more news from AEM via the forum?
Also, ompressor and air line finally needed? :eyebrows:
Bill uses a bit of kit similar to this...
Amazon.com: Hand Vacuum Pump w/Gauge: Industrial & Scientific
Something like this would be ideal
Though the above is expensive if you only want to use it once.
Edit: too slow and the one tuffty linked to looks good.
I'm going to look at the earthing wiring tonight on my AEM kit. At the moment its attached to the main in car earth under the dash by the steering column. Is there any alternative earthing point I can use for testing?