Also cheers again bill you got a more promising reply than when I spoke to them ;-)
Also cheers again bill you got a more promising reply than when I spoke to them ;-)
I would'nt go as far as to say promising...
their latest response to me is how many do I wish to purchase.... which clearly is none.. and that they only come as part of the full kit, which I am not interested in.
Let war commence if they continue to not support product they happily sell.
I have warned them on significant -ve feedback for them if they dont do the right thing.
its actual timing, so the map its running on.... with anything additional added
Ok, so bumper off for the million'th time!
Here's a little video of the AEM valve just leaking away:
I tried changing the nozzle and checking the spring inside the valve but it made no difference at all :(
Think it's quite conclusive that the valve is shagged!
Lol nice vid. Well surely a one way valve is only going to stop boost going back up towards the pump, it's still going to let water out in the direction of the nozzle, wherever it be with the pump pushing, or the engine vacuum pulling. The pump should be the resistive component, stopping the vacuum pulling it through.
Its a check valve, not a one way valve, so i presume it has a crack pressure when it is supposed to open...
It's supposed to hold it shut until it has sufficient pressure to push it open, the piston that seals it shut has 4 tiny slots cut in it so when there is sufficient pressure it can get through then pushing it open bearing in mind its a 200 psi pump iirc ;-)
Water would still drip out of the nozzle with the pump on or off. This is syphoning straight out the tank. The only way to stop it was to raise tue nozzle above the tank but boost pressure would still draw out the fluid then.
Google gave me this:
Is it possible you have the 'older' style of check valve, maybe
He has the new built in one...
Last night I also decided to check my Haldex connector pins. Something is not quite right, it looks like something may have been replaced at some point. Here's the pics:
This is the metal plate that holds the connector. This looks brand new considering most i've seen are as corroded as the rear diff :think:
You can see how corroded the surrounding metal is:
Here's the plug on the back of the plate:
The pins look brand new, I suppose that it's just been sealed well but the other side of the plug casing was all cracked!
Apparently if the pins have been replaced before then the repair kit comes with yellow wire so you can tell that a repair has been done. I cant see a yellow wire in this instance:
So at least I now know that my earth strap and haldex connector are fine but I still get the odd communication issue when in VCDS!
Replacement cables from Audi are yellow but you can get individual pins to connect your current cables.
If they got new pins and a new plug. You would not notice yellow cables.
Is there meant to be tape around the cable protector?
It does look very clean, like it been replaced.
that plate often looks better than the surrounding corrosion... clear anodised perhaps..
neil: anything posted on the aem forum to you?
send that video link to xenonlv and see what they have to say...
they need more peeps moaning to them that this is actually happening to take note
I've emailed him, see what he says.
I've got an inline check valve sat at home from the Aquamist kit I bought that was sh!te. I might pop that in-line and see if the dripping stops.
He's replied already!
Said I need to return the valve to him (in Essex) then he can send out a new one :yahoo:
Well I've been in contact with a nice chap called Henry from AEM in America about the crappy check valve and I've just received this email:
I’m having one assembled and tested for you. It should ship tomorrow probably priority mail and you should receive it in 6-10 business days.
I'm also sending mind back to the eBay seller and he's sending me a replacement too. Double bonus.
I like Henry
Did Xenonlv respond to you?
Stacey came to see me tonight bearing gifts. It was nice to see you again mate but I have to say i'm a little disappointed that you wont be able to come to the Ring this year due to the fiancée curbing your spending :( ;)
Stacy dropped off the mani and AEB head for me:
I didn't bother with pics of the head as everyone has seen an oily head before so I'll wait till all the work has been done on it.
I did strip it down a bit, removing inlet mani and exhaust mani, rocker cover and all the loose cut off hoses that the seller had left attached. It will be getting dropped off at the head shop for work to be done on the 28th of Jan.
You getting excited .....:)
Like the freddo....:icon_thumright:
Taz's were welllll better than freddos!
Pretty shiny metal. I do like theses pipes.
Why the 28th of jan?
Do it now.
Needs to be more interesting things in the 8L section (And the B5 but thats a different thing all together) and more builds.
Cracking progress though mate.
Can't wait for more.
28th of Jan is when I'm next in Cambridgeshire so I can drop off the head and pickup a big box of parts from Jason at the same time ;)
None of it's getting fitted till Easter so still a while to wait unfortunately.
On the plus side I'm currently building a LNM team for the job. Tam is a definite and Stacey will come if he's not working. I'm also trying to organise a special guest appearance from "mr head" himself, Welly ;)
I got a question or 2 for the people in the know!:
The AEB head hasn't got a VVT part on the cam chain tensioner so i'm under the impression that I need to put my BAM unit and cams into the AEB head when fitting it? Has anyone got any info on how to time it all up afterwards?
Fit your followers, cams, VVT, chain etc as you know its history... valves/springs etc I am not sure on... depends on the mileage of the AEB head really but there can be differences between the valves and fittings on 20v heads... the valves are all the same length but I have seen the collet grooves to be different on heads before so if you choose to use your BAM valves then use them as a set... if you are having the exhaust valve guides replaced then the machine shop may well want the valves you are going to use to ream them to the right size...
This was a non issue on mine as I fitted Supertech valves...
Try this for starters :)
VWVortex.com - FAQ : Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation
Tuffty, I know it's in your thread somewhere but if I go in there I wont come out for days ;)
This is the list for the head shop:
- New Exhaust Guides
- Valves Cleaned & Relapped
- New Valve Stem Seals
- Head Skimmed
- Pressure Test
I can give them any parts from my BAM engine unfortunately as I need my car right up until the swap. The milage of the AEB was a lot let then my BAM so I'm hoping that the Valves and springs are all in good shape. I'll see what the head place says. If I have to buy valves and springs then i'll bite the bullet.
Personally i'd keep the AEB valves and springs/retainers, and transfer the cams and followers from the BAM head when you come to swap it on.
That way you can have the valve seats cut and ground with the AEB valves before the car is dismantled. If you wanted to use the BAM valves, you'd need to remove your BAM head, and take all the valves out and send them off with the head to be sorted, which means downtime for no real gain.
Make sure when you come to it, that you mark all the followers, and make sure they go back in the same place they came from. The head rebuild procedure is well documented in ELSAWin, and probably the haynes too. When i did mine, i bolted the head down to the block bare, moved the engine away from TDC, and then fitted the cams, timed up the chain, then pulled the bottom end back round to TDC before installing the timing belt.
Should be ok mate... if they are doing that amount of work I am sure they will let you know if there is an issue with the parts...
Was the AEB head from a running engine or left to sit a while? I would still use your BAM followers for now and use the cams, VVT and timing chain... get a new tensioner gasket set (comes with the half moon seal) and replace the cam seals as they will be more like Bakelite than rubber...
You need to use the multi windowed cam pos trigger wheel on your BAM as AEB's come with single windowed ones so easier to reuse your cams and at least you know they are right for the car... there are subtle differences between cam sets but I have never managed to find anything definitive as yet to explain what...
Also, FWIW, when i took my head in, i asked for the exhaust guides to be replaced, and the bloke phoned me up and said he'd seen more play in new guides than what i had in my existing ones and suggested i just leave them as they are. That was a 120k head too, so its probably worth checking the guides first rather than just throwing in new ones?