Yeah thats what i meant was trying to type fast while on my toilet break :D suppose new design turbos should always be a little better than the old ones but yours really does look like a good all round turbo.
Love the thread, how much are you selling the spacers for?
Hopefully the GTX3071 is similarly awesome after reading all that. I've just noticed TSR now do their manifold with a downpipe. Looks like they've changed the design:
TSR Garrett Tubular manifold and 3" downpipe
Not cheap mind you.
Unbelievable isnt it lol.
The Things we would do for a decent priced set of wheels fred.
I will get packing!
What would it cost to get them imported privately?
8 grand??!? Fml
£2400 for 4 sets based on the above prices, plus a guess quote of £1600 from fedex for collection and delivery.
The grand total is £4000.
Split that 4 ways, its £1000 each.
EDIT: that was based on the wheels being 10kgs but if they are 5kgs, the price drops to £900.
Takes the total each to £825.
no idea how accurate this is but its keeping me entertained.
EDIT x2: that's also a 4 day delivery time. lol
Before you get carried away, mine were bought from a guy who brought in about 10 sets or something, he has a few race cars and had extra. They were originally for a WRX but were still boxed and never used. They originally came from Rimstock in the UK. When I got quotes locally for 18x9s, it was $2000 for 4 landed. I wanted anthracite originally (matches silver cars better imo) but I'll settle for gloss black at the price :)
pin received from Bill.
Again, huge thankyou to Bill and Tuffty.
Pin went in all nice and snug.
This is a vid to show how these pins fit, and the play on the rod, feels very nice and tight but with neccesary movement
And then i put the rings on this rod and piston, marked around the piston where the gaps should be just incase i forget. 120 degree spacing.
started porting the inlet mani while i wait for the other wrist pins:
gasket matched, as will the inlets on the head.
Lookin good Karlos....
Cracking work mate :)
This is worse than the first testament..........CRACK ON LAD....;)
Looks like a smart job on the porting mate, All the little bits help :)
Were you not tempted to get AGU runners welded onto your AMK plenum?
A custom inlet is something i deffo want for mapping. But initially this port matched amk one will do for getting the car running and broken in.
cant be ****ed with this anymore
took old engine out the car anyway, woopeedoo.
get home and wanted to put the piston and rods in like so, didn't have a ring expender so just clamped the pistons up and put the rings on carefully:
then whilst looking at putting the new oil pump and chain on etc, and getting the crank bolt off (which wont undo!)
I noticed this:
3 teeth missing of the oil pump drive gear!
so, whats my options?
The one from IE???
crank out I guess, which means new main bolts aswell.
Bad luck buddy, bad luck.
Did you not see the teeth in the sump or in the drained oil?
This is on the new engine, not my original one. Just hadnt spotted it.
So il need the gear from IE, this needs pressing on, so a case of taking it somewhere, plus new main bolts.
sick of coming back to southport to get virtually nothing done, really am sick of it. Tiny little problems that mean MORE downtime, MORE money. Its wearing thin. I dont have the ****ing time or resources. Going to have to travel back to southport alot this next week, and just truck on. Sick of living in one location, car being in another, and parts and engine in another.
Bad luck matey :(
Contact jase he can get the oil pump sprocket as he got mine for the stroker crank
May get away with doing it with tge crank in the block, need to undo the crank bolt (can post you my bodged up crank holdy tool thing once finished goubo's engine), take the seal flange off and that will give you access
I got a used 1.8T oil gear you can have, it was on my fsi crank. I removed it before throwing the crank away.
Your price = free + postage to UK
Shout if you want it :icon_thumright:
Really bad luck there.
Hope you get it sorted soon....I know how it feels having your car in bits and waiting to get it running.
All the best.
thanks for the kind words guys.
I stupidly snapped at my dad today, after getting ****ed off with it and moaning about having to now source this and that, hes an old school mechanic and was saying oh we'l just put these main bolts back in. When its not there money its easy for them to try and cut corners, but im trying my upmost to do it all properly and by the book, so as to minimise potential failures.
Its all a mental drain, i thought i had everything sorted so i could get flying. Theres no turning back anyway.
Scullies, il have a word with jason first on monday, think it may be easier and a faster turn around. Im unsure what postage might be you see, unless you know? By the way thats very kind of you.
One thing ive come to hugely appreciate in starting this, is you lot and the people on the forums, this would not be happening if it werent for the help of all those ive dealt with when theres been problems. To think, i initially wanted to just put rods in my original engine and whack a turbo on the head and reinstall. Ha.
Like I keep saying to people with troublesome hybrids and BT builds.... should have stayed K04 ;)
Reesy wishes he had.
Got an apy crank you can have if you cover postage super-k
I got Stacey mainbolts and pulley and some other stuff for about 24 quid or something like that. I'll do my best on Monday and let you know. Let me know if you need anything else
Forgive me if this is a daft question / statement here SK, I've not read the entire thread to every last detail, so I may be mistaken.
If your crank is still in the block, I'm guessing it's a stock unbored block that's just had a flex hone.
Might it not be cheaper / easier / quicker for you to just buy another short engine and use that for the build instead? Seeing as you've not assembled anything yet.
£100-200 on a short engine and you might get back £60 for the pistons selling them on. perhaps an easy escape route that'd save more work and effort? Might even get a few other bits with one that you could sell on to return funds.
Sometimes it's easier and less hassle to just move onto something else, when it's stock and easily sourced lump.
Either way, good luck with it mate. Stick at it, it'll all be so worth it in the end.
Chin up Karl... I know how you feel mate... this kinda sh*t happens all the time... I have been there myself on more than one occasion (this very weekend in fact :()
Always a ballache when having to do a build like this on a tight budget etc... that has bitten me on more than one occasion...
Feel for yah dude...
Thinking about it, props to you for spotting that! I bet 90% of people wouldn't have noticed and would have cracked on and found out the hard way!
I have 2 engines prawn, the one i took out of the car, which still has gearbox on it and pistons still in it etc, that block was trashed from the piston melting incident, and needs probably a 0.5-1mm bore job to be useable again.
So i bought a short block, which was just block and crank, and that was prepped ready for everything, then i spotted the oil pump gear, and thats where im at now.
So we have my new engine that wouldve been built at my dads house, and my car and old engine at my mates garage. Hope that explains things.
And i guess in a way, i do feel glad to have found it. God knows what problems it could have caused, the chain was snagging slightly on the sprocket.
Crank is out now anyway, old gear will be pulled. And main caps/bearings will be kept in there old positions. New bolts tho.
Il just need some pointers on getting the new gear on. IE say to heat theres and press it on, would that involve a machine, or once its hot will it preas on by hand??
ok thats fine, i have a place i can send stuff like that to.
Mine wasn't to hard to get on once heated, I just used a soft drift with a hammer to aid it and went on nice and easy
Sure youll be all sorted and back on track in no time ;)