The left hand side of my shelf has all my food related stuff as you probably have noticed.... But I do swear I have actually got tools in my work cupboards ;)
Been having more issues with the throttle body, to the point it threw a wobbly 4 times in 20 miles, so have now bought one off of eBay for £25 posted and can hopefully start running meth again ;)
I will hopefully try running the dv off of the new tb as it still doesn't open quick enough all the time which causes an obvious noise and you can see the inlet temps spike, although it only seems to happen when letting off when the turbos spooling up
Am hoping that the bigger diameter nipple and 6mm Id pipe will flow enough to open it quicker??
This is a pain with WMI. Luckily mine hasn't been working long enough to eat a TB lol
even comes with a 10 minute warranty
can you actually see what the meth has doen to it, or is it unoticable?
i've not heard welly has been through one recently, was his just the one? because i thought it was a bit of speculation as to whether wmi was the cause.
I know that since it first started playing up it's gradually got worse but Tuesday I eventually took it apart and cleaned the tracks on the circuit board with some electrical solvent and has been fine since
I physically haven't seen any water or anything in there when I think welly found his full before?
It would suggest that something had been deposited on the circuit board on mine at some point and WMi seems the obvious thing but there isn't any concrete evidence of this apart from I would have thought it would help the seals deteriate quicker?
just a quick daft suggestion, is there no way to bodge some sort of silicone around the TB so the water meth mix wont get in to it, surly there must be a hole that could be siliconed up to not let the mixture in.
This is why I looked at a TB sandwich plate after the TB to attach the nozzle too but I was told that the mixture wouldn't be able to atomise as well into the charge airs being so close to the inlet mani.
Silicone isnt really an option but once I've got the new one I will be looking to see if I can replace the o ring to fix it
From what I've read the closer to the inlet you get more of the meths properties (less knock/higher octane) where as the further away you get more of a cooling effect which will also reduce knock slightly through lower IAT's
Would quite like to try 2 nozzles....one at throttle body and curious to how a small one just after the turbo would work as this is when temps are at there greatest??
slappy did a bunch of tests on his TT spraying pre and post and direct, so worth asking him how he fared.. It was contrary to what the mainstream suggest, but he did it with logs etc so actual data and results - which i dont recall I'm afraid
Had remembered seeing a thread on it somewhere but couldnt remember where?
I suppose it may be beneficial if still running a really inefficient intercooler setup and things get muchos hot but if your Intercoolers already efficient then not going to gain anything like said ;)
Even atomised meth fluid shouldn't eat the TB too much. It's probably more likely to do with the strength of the mixture you're running. I know for a fact you like it strong cause that pre mixed bottle you gave me was pretty potent ;)
I usually mix a 20 litre container at a time and it's conveniently marked in 2litre increments and do aim for 50/50 or somewhere abouts, maybe that bottle i gave you wasn't mixed after all??
Also been meaning to ask what water pumps are flavour of the month as know people all went for ones with metal impellers as the plastic ones broke up and then iirc was it the metal ones that have now been discovered to have duff seals??
Share the knowledge guys ;)
I've gone for an airtek plastic impeller pump this time.
i think it was tuffty and Welly that were talking about the metal impeller ones being off balance and leaking through the spindles, so I went plastic this time around after 2 metal ones previously which both weaped through the seal a tiny bit.
I hope I'm not running 100% meth :faint:
I have a plastic water pump mate. All the new ones from VW are plastic now.
The new OEM pumps should be plastic impeller and of a new design... most if not all of the pumps I have seen destroy themselves are originals from the factory... not yet seen a replacement go
Okey dokeys oem plastic it is but I've been told that there's a few part numbers when was compiling my parts list, the number I've got is 06A 121 012 GX and was told that you can exchange an old one for about £25?
Cheers for the help guys ;)
On a completely random one just updated my tapatalk and found that there's a "like" button :)
You`ll have to pay the £25 until you give the old one back then you`ll get a refund. Its not refund you £25 from the retail price :p
Yeah did kind of gather that but have got 2 old ones in my cupboard now from stripping blocks :P
Will they take both and give me £50 lol ;)
Sadly not lol. Got a month to return.
TBH even if they hadnt changed the design, its not like the plastic pumps break after a year is it...
they last 10 years or so, and if you change them with the cam belt you'll never have an issue with them.
I've unfortunately just fitted a metal pump to my A4 due to it dying and me having to quickly get a replacement from ECP, so no doubt i'll have to take that apart again in a few months and fix it when it starts leaking.
Well done a couple of little things to the car or bits for the car over the last few days :)
Chamfered the bottom of the bores with the trusty dremmel
I also did a bit of work on the inlet Mani as have just bought some carbide burrs for the dremmel so fancied giving them a go and removed all the casting excess (sorry no pics)
Have fitted the throttle body and moved the dv onto the fitting on there which has improved it's response massively and am chuffed now can run WMi again ;)
I thought I'd also get the EBC plumbed in eventually but now have thought about it I'm not sure if it will work in parallel with the N75 like a MBC/bleed valve as the solenoid for the EBC is a 3 port valve, which vents the actuator to atmosphere when trying to increase boost (by the looks of things that is?) so if the N75 try's to open the wastegate it could then just be vented out the exhaust of the EBC valve and I pressume the same would happen the other way round but the EBC trying to open the wastegate and the N75 just venting it into the TIP??
So for now I've plumbed the EBC in by itself so I can get it set up properly as got a trackday booked and up and coming as had a £100 voucher I was trying to save till I got the more egt friendly set up on but it is about to expire so use it or loose it ;)
Once got it all set up properly I will try it in parallel and see how it all behaves
I have over the last week or so experienced some slightly higher boost levels with it holding as high as 1.7 bar but when changing the wastegate piping found the cause :faint:
The pipe had been moved down the back of the head previously when was working on something and got forgoten about but you can see how much the oem heatsheild does as have only cut a small slot (down right behind the head) in it as the wastage was to tight to the head and all the pipe was fine apart from an inch or so that sat above the little hole
you can never have too much heatshielding.
Yeah will be welding something back in place of the inch or so lump I cut out for this setup
What you think about the EBC in parallel bill being that the solenoid is 3 port unlike a MBC bleed valve? Am wondering if they will try and work against each other?
Well been playing with the boost controller for a good few days now and can't get it to consistently hold the boost throughout the rev range?
My aim was to get it running what it is mapped at (1.55 bar) and then set a couple of reduced amounts as well as setting up the overboost function for a couple extra psi in short bursts at the press of a button
I've played with the duty cycle and gain levels but not getting much better consistency, if you pull through lower gears it will hold 1.5-1.6 but tails off up towards the last couple of thousand to 1.3 ish but problem is when in higher gears loaded up it holds 1.8 which not happy about as will just shoot egts up for little gain
The controller I'm running is gizmo ms-ibc if anyone has had any experience with this particular one or knowledge from others is more than welcome
On a plus side I've just got a nice tax rebate as wasn't getting the correct tax relief on my pension......so hopefully should see the build moving now and will be ordering my crank and rest of oem bits in the up and coming days as well as sending Andrew my head :)
Took the car to a friends today to have the geometry looked at as not been checked since had the front subframe off as well as doing various other work
I used to have it set up with 2 degrees negative camber on the rear and just over 2 degrees on the front but obviously things were a bit out especially on the rear, had managed to get the front relatively even
We had issues with the rear passanger side tie arm which the adjuster seems to be seized as the locknuts move freely but cannot budge the adjuster, I've got a horrible feeling that the previous people hadn't done the locknuts up properly and has deformed the threads?
We got a couple of bits better aligned or at least even, even if it's a bit to much for now, will have to take the tie arm off and free it up as well as maybe repair the threads if needed then will set it all properly
What would people reconmend getting everything set to for fast road/track as the car is being driven hard more often than sensibly
My friend has said he's willing to set it a bit more aggressive for the up and coming trackday and return it back to something more sensible FOC afterwards
thats alot of camber for fast driving anyway. bit of toe out on the front is also a good idea. i have 0.05 both sides, feels lively and quick.
i do get alot of inner tyre wear though, mainly because i do alot of long straight driving with it toe-ing out
I need my Geo setup as well, if i come up and see you can you take me to your mate?
Cheers for the replies guys think I may tone the camber down a touch especially on the rear once that tie bars been freed up think I may keep a reasonable amount of front camber as should hopefully keep good turn in and front end grip? Also don't think I will be able to back the adjusters off to much to get it much lower on the passengers side front but will see, will try the toe as said karlos and see how she goes ;)
If anyone else is interested they (station tyres in witham) will do front alignment for £30 or full alignment for £50 but don't sting you for each individual adjustment like certain places I have been to before wanting >£200 for full set up ;)
Well the inevitable has happened just thought it would last longer as the last one lasted well over a year and this one has been a mater of weeks, but it does show that my one from qst is nomex or there is big differences in quality
The two types side by side
I've got a spare length of the ASH silicon as was cheap that could use as a back up but as it's not lasted that long have cut a length off of the other end at the top of the old elbow
Was hoping it would be enough to see me until I change it all over to the new set up but with the up and coming track day at Bedford will have to shield it in some way or form
Got the head all packaged up and sent off today so hopefully ball is rolling with the build again :)
Have been going through what is hopefully some of the last few bits to order over the last couple of days, got all my charge piping ordered for the TIP and L shaped charge pipe from the turbo (cheers bill as always for advice on sizing etc) ;)
Then after seeing a thread on plugs this morning it has got me thinking what plugs do I need?? Will 7's still be cold enough or should I know step up to 8's?