I personally think all these bright coloured wheels and stickers are a done and dusted theme, they're like a "look at me" type thing.
I agree which what someone else said earlier, subtle black stickers, and a black cage would look a lot better, but that's just my opinion.
Bit more progress, just doing an hour or so each night.
Got a new cambelt and slipped that on, I just whipped the old one off and new one on being careful not to move anything, but Tuffty said I should give it a spin over and check the timing. I was convinced it hadn't moved, but when I span it round, it was a tooth out!
D'oh! PT was right again. he has a nasty habbit of doing that!
Reset the timing and made sure it was correct, fitted the pulley and covers and dropped on my newly painted rocker cover.
Hardly a work of art on the rocker cover, but it's clean and one colour, mainly :laugh:
I also took the chance to paint the block in black engine enamel whilst it was all in bits.
Also stuck a new master cylinder on this evening as I had a snapped bleed nipple in the old one that wouldn't remove, and removed all the aircon hard lines around the bay to tidy things up a bit more :)
Cam cover looks good as does the engine all in black. What paint did you use por 15?
Going to bash its back doors in!!!!!!!
Really though, it should be going in next weekend if all comes together, will only take me a few days to get it run in as I'm going to go for the hard break in method, then I'll use it for my 500 mile / week commute to iron out any bugs.
Quick stop at the bodyshop to have the damage repaired, then it'll be on it's way to Hinckley to see if Wellys 344bhp will ever be beaten!
can't wait :yahoo:
nick, is your drive plate on your clutch sprung?
Sachs list unsprung (solid plate) only on stock dims, and their sprung one they say is only for use with their cover plate... as its thicker..
Were you looking for complete or just drive plate?
Ah ********. cheers Bill. I was just looking for a drive plate, as with so much money going out on the build I just can't stretch to £300+ on a complete kit.
Mine is a single mass flywheel, so it's a sprung plate. Was hoping I'd be able to get a sprung paddle plate as I've already got an expensive exedy pressure plate.
I believe the sachs standard VR6 clutch is rated to 300lbft, and I do have an uprated pressure plate, but I was just wanting to ensure it's not going to slip when we crank the boost up.
What would you advise?
hmmm, prolly be ok.. just not for launches I think.. once clamped ok.. but it will burn up on launching being organic
OK cheers Bill. I'll just go ahead and fit a standard Sachs plate then for now, and IF I do get issues I'll save up and upgrade in the future.
Does anyone know if it's possible to just buy a standard SACHS organic 228mm sprung plate? rather than a full clutch kit?
Can have a measure of my paddle plate if you want mate? As far as I know southbend have utilised standard dimensions? Also was cheap £180 iirc ;)
yours is S3 size though isn't it stacey? 240mm? if you could check that'd be great.
Mine is 228mm :(
Can get the standard VAG replacement plate on its own yeah. Exchange though so a small charge of £15 plus vat would be put ontop if you havent got an OEM old unit to return.
what's the damage on a replacement plate Jason? It's a VR6 clutch from an AAA engine. I've got about 6 million old plates I could exchange as I've been through so many!
£57.60 inc vat with surcharge returned from me. Retails at £106.92 inc vat with surcharge returned.
Epic fail on size differences but they do a lot of kits and most of there gear is made to order iirc (think they originally started out with custom clutches for tractor pulling) so probably will be able to knock something up ;)
Prawny, don't worry about the clutch too much mate as chances are you'll be fitting another new gearbox within the next 6 months :moa:
Jason that sounds awesome mate. I've dropped Southbend an e-mail on the off chance that it'll be cheap for a paddle, but I'm not holding out much hope so I'll give you a shout later on!
What make is the OEM plate?
No idea tbh. The only clutches that have branding on ETKA are around 05-09 but i`ve only ever seen LUK or Sachs being used within VAG. Grip force seem to suggest OEM VR6 clutch is Sachs
Thanks a load for all your help Jason / Bill. I think I'm now sorted though.
After speaking to Stacey yesterday, I dropped Southbend a line via e-mail, and they are able to supply me a 6 paddle 228mm sprung drive plate for a very reasonable cost :)
Going to have to get used to a snappy clutch I guess!
Have to say this is an amazing build thread had to sign up here to follow this.
I planning a similar project with my mk4 golf v6 4motion soon to be turbo'd over the winter.
How are you planning on keeping it MOT legal as from what i gather the new regulations don't allow the removal of airbags, fixed bucket seats and the removal of seat belts and seat belt pre tensioners.
Good job on building such an inspirational car.
As for keeping it MOT legal, it seems that the recent worries were all a bit OTT, and it's actually years away from passing, if at all.
Airbag removal will be outlawed next year anyway I believe, but with a common sense clause: it's allowed if it's done for a purpose.
ie: if you have a road going corsa with a full interior, and a momo 280mm non airbag wheel - FAIL.
If you have a track car, clearly prepared for motorsport use, with a fixed FIA approved seat, roll cage, and FIA approved harnesses, the airbag clearly serves no purpose any more, and it's allowed to pass at the testers discression.
By the time the law does come into force, I should be able to afford a B5 RS4 and a trailler to tow this around anyway :)
Well thats good news then. As really want a road legal track car and using my 4motion would be a great base. Best start getting a move on with the engine build then.
aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah. We're talking about two different sets of regs.
You're talking about the recent changes, which I think you're right, are in effect already regarding airbag removal and fixed seats. tehy're the ones that are subject to common sense.
The laws Jardo was talking about, and I thought at first, are about banning all mods totally. it's speculation that's years off at present.
My word, he's right!
Not to mention that Mazda are Japanese; I think you might be getting confused with the Kia Rio Nick was thinking of part exchanging the A3 for.
I asked my MOT tester last week about the Airbag rules.
His answer was if its not there he cant test it. So if the airbags hanging out of the steering wheel and the dash light is on, its a fail. If there are airbags fitted but the dash light doesnt do what its supposed to (ie come on then go out), its a fail. But if there are no airbags installed, and no light on the dash, then its a pass.
Dropped my turbo off with Dan (Beachbuggy) this evening.
When I was up at Bills we had a look at the turbo, and we all agreed that whilst there was almost no side to side play, the in/out play in the thrust bearing was more than you would want / expect after just 4000 miles on the car.
Not wanting to rebuild it to see it start to fail again after 4000 miles, I got chatting to Dan, who has found a new bearing kit which includes an uprated thrurst bearing with a much larger face on the thrust washer, which should help things loads under high boost.
Dan will be rebuilding the turbo this week and having it all balanced up, and because he's a top bloke, I'll have it back before my clutch arrives from the states, so it won't delay the build at all :)
So as nick said he dropped the turbo off at my work today, and after 6 hours on standby it was quite nice to actually do something today!
Anyone that has had a new turbo will know that there is always a little in/out play. Until oil has pressured the thrust bearing it moves but once its been pressuried it should go.
The thrust bearing is basically made up of a thrust washer, a thrust plate and another thrust washer, which is basically attached to the front oil seal. These act together, to stop the turbo internals from wanting to take off. The turbo is almost a jet engine and wants to move, only stopped by the thrust bearing. as the turbo spins up it moves back and as it slows moves forward. This is normally done against the thrust plate, cushioned by oil.
In stock form, these parts take punishment but are capable of doing so, when you increase boost the punishment increases and can in some case cause the thrust plate or one of the washers to wear, this is where the in/out movement occurs. As this happens the movement gets greater and results eventually in the rear oil seal not working and the turbo failing.
Now in the case of Nicks turbo it has been supposedly fitted with the uprated kit, which is basically a larger thrust washer and thrust collar, along with a modified thrust plate. this will spread the load over a greater area and reduce wear.
However, and this still has to be confirmed but it looks like while the thrust washer was changedfor the uprated part, so was the thrust plate but the thrust collar is still stock! The modified thrust plate would work well if the thrust washer modified as well as the oil channels have been enlargened but with a stock thrust collar it's pointless! all the oil spills over the edge and has cleared resulted in the thrust plate been worn. It is .2mm so far which is enough to give the excessive movement.
Now the question is really have CR fitted the wrong part or is it just a badly designed uprated part! The other uprated kits I have seen and the one I now use all have bigger thrust washers as well as thrust collars which makes sense.
Nicks rotor assembly is being sent off to be rebalanced with a FULL uprated bearing kit and hopefully work this time..
I'm not saying this is another own goal for CR but either they fitted the wrong part or their kit isn't right! who know's but the reason the turbo has excessive in/out play for the mileage is a result of the parts.
below is a picture of the compressor wheel and also the uprated kit besides a stock kit, with the uprated on the left. you can see the larger washer but also the thrust collars being the same, possibly the extra work in the thrust plate.