wouldnt an mbc in parallel with the N75 solve this problem?
wouldnt an mbc in parallel with the N75 solve this problem?
How much is machined out? Do they do it on a normal lathe with a boring bar etc? And where exactly from on the turbo?
@ Rich196, 1.7bar on a stage one is just not right! I'll take it back as at those boost levels all you're doing is pushing loads of hot air and that just isn't going to last long(turbo or even rods) Was your car mapped on a rolling road?
I am 100% confident in the map and who did it. I was explain the risk of running higher boost and that its a case of seeing how well the turbo lasts, and I was happy with that. This really was just a question to find out what hardware changes would best over come my marginal overboost.
factory cars overboost....... to put it into prespective.. they overshoot their programmed boost..
So after a few hickups, leaking gaskets and clutchs going I have finally got a tune I'm happy with.
The following graphs are logging using ME7logger and the map was tuned by myself having spent the last year learning the ins and outs of the ME7 ecu.
I've been running the car at a sensible boost inbetween tweaking the maps and understanding what the different maps do, there is definately more to give with the engine. More importantly the hybrid turbo is giving good results which I knew anyway but it's good to see it in black and white.
Spec wise the car is a hybrid k04, xs power manifold, blue flame dp and cat, B5 tip, 550 injectors, Ie rods, Small port head. ME7 BAM ecu upgrade.
As you can see I have either a boost leak or the N75 maps can be tweaked to make actual meet requested.
Please also bare in mind this logger is far more accurate than VCDS and has a far higher sample rate hence the up/down lines as it's logging the m/s values.
airflow is fecking good considering the boost.
So is that hybrid making around 315bhp? And thats not even with a largeport head or ragging the nuts out of the hybrid?
Looks impressive mate....:icon_thumright:
So with a largeport head and more map playing whats the most you think the hybrid of yours would achieve?
And althougglh it may suggest 315 from airflow this mifht not transfer to the dyno.
My car suggwsts 238 and i very much doubt it would produce that with my oem map.
19psi is very low for a hybrid is-t it? So theres quite a bit to come in boost alone surely.
Hopefully though is I can get the duty cycles sorted and the Actual to meet the requested I should be luck.
rl_w will solve your problem :)
i need to pull my finger out and get mine fitted so i can give u some more feed back but this is a good wright up, top work :thumbsup:
Beachbuggy thats really awesome work. i was searching the net for how to disassemble a K03s turbo and came across this and learnt so much more. i was looking to rebuild the K03s myself to standard spec to learn and not pay rediculous fee's. but you have got me thinking now.
so the compressor housing is not big enough to take machining for a larger wheel, but the the exhaust turbine can be upsized? is that right? im from camberley!
K03s compressor will take the k04 comp wheel but it leaves the inlet for the turbo soooo thin it's scary and I wouldn't want to use it, even putting the tip on and doing up the jubilee clip would distort it and run the risk of damage. It works out just as cost effective to buy a make a k04/k03s comp housing so you get the benefit of the k04 comp housing and the k03 outlet giving a stock looking turbo, this in turn allow a bigger comp wheel to be fitted.
Turbine housing comfortably takes the largest wheel available but it's then limited by its small size ( turbine housing)
if you need I can supply everything you would need to build what you wanted.
so its best to leave the compressor side and increase the exhaust turbine on the K03s?
i think i need a new chra as the in-out play was alot.
took it apart and its pretty badly worn. the exhaust turbine wheel has worn down on the heat sheild cap, the compressor wheel has worn down on the compressor housing. the cover that i cannot get off is worn a bit also i think where the bearing has ground in from the in-out play. the shaft is ok, it didnt have up or down play.
i just need to get the compressor cover of the compressor housing to get the compressor wheel out. then i can assess.
this is sealed in isnt it?, so should i refit it all then tap the compressor housing off?
thats a yes to tapping it apart.
whats the verdict? i think the back plate from the compressor housing is damaged as the area where the bearing contacts is worn/grooved as is the bearing part which is against it.
technical term coming..
i think its fecked
... your welcome :D
all stripped down, parts with screwdrivers pointing at them are worn. also need turbine/shaft and compressor backplate.
how does the rear oil seal on the shaft seal in the chra? mine is awol so cannot work it out. is it with the circlip which is still in the chra?
Holly cow! That is worn! Your rear seal probably snapped, it's a piston ring type seal that sits in a groove on the turbine and seals against the inside of the chra, that is only part of it as sealing is also done by back pressure in the turbine housing keeping the oil in.
Oddly, boost isnt meeting requested, but the waste gate duty cycle isnt anywhere near maxed out.
Looks like the Boost PID just needs some tuning?
I don't think was the best example to be honest, I see your point though. This was actually done after I had tested the setup with a spring to assist the actuator which then held 23psi without issue, do to be honest I wasnt too concerned on the n75 map as I knew it wouldnt hold the boost so never put the n75 map back to stock. I'm pretty sure I had change the I and P to dampen down the overshoot, but decided an MBC was the safer option anyway which is where I am at now. I've just bought some 1 bar actuators to make up on stock brackets so hopefully that'll be fitted in the next week or so.
can you post your timing advance curve (in addition to the CF values already posted)? Also, this is an AWD 6spd manual, yes? If so, i'd love to compare FATs times with you. What's FATs? It's this:
Here we go, the logging software does fats as well so I have included a picture of that as well., I have no idea whats good or whats not.
Its an Audi S3 AWD 6 speed manual
please explain FATS :(
3.39 seconds (in 3rd I presume) is already good. That's about what I'm seeing as well now with the warmer weather. And I'm going to guess you are running straight pump gas -- no WMI. FATs is an excellent metric for improvements and modifications. I find it to be unflinchingly cruel about bringing me down to earth when I thought I've just had a good run. Despite the various disappointments, I'm still striving for a clean sub 3.00 in warmer temps.
how can we do a FAT's test Doug? Sounds interesting, and I'd love to see how mine compares to the S3 boys on the same / similar spec turbos
Damn. I've just downloaded the same FATs calculator as you have above, and realised two things:
1. the only logs I've done on my hybrid were flat out through the gears logging IAT's, so my 3rd gear pulls following a second gear pull don't start until 4600rpm
2. my 5 speed is useless for a FATs comparison against you guys with a 6 speed :( so it's pointless. I was thinking 3s sounds VERY fast to get from 4200-6500 in 3rd for me, but i'll be doing another 20mph at the top end of 3rd!
Oh well, nice idea whilst it lasted. Could still be a handy reference for me for performance checking though
overall gearing, which includes the gearbox, gear used, wheel/tyre size will all effect the times when comparing different cars...