with all the best will in the world, you could go to town on checking / reinforcing the welds on the relentless, but half of them crack across the wall of the pipe where the material is thinner due to the bending process :(
Don`t they double butt these tubular`s?
Guess that's wishful thinking lol but for the price you cant complain, besides if it does crack i`ve got a few guys i know who can fabricate an exact copy of this with heavier tubular`s. Maybe a Titanium version and sell my own copy :thumbsup:
I suggest you do some more reading up dude... Relentless 'issues' are pretty well discussed on this forum (and others)
Oh i did read up on them and are renowned for fitting issues but they say the V3 is better, if you believe that lol
AUDI TT S3 STAINLESS RACE MANIFOLD AND DOWNPIPE COMBO version3 | eBay
With modifying cars there's always gonna be bumps in the road, pun intended lol but if your modding your car and are worried if things will crack, break down, not fit or need a slight tweak then maybe you should stick to taking the bus to work as this come with the territory.
You never know, My manifold lottery could be fine with mine, who`s to say my manifold needs a opening up? Fine as the 5 axis CNC my brother uses at work will sort it or i`ll make a Titanium version as its cheap to butcher the V3.
Plus Tubular manis look cool as feck and probably provide more power which is the point in up grading the mani in the first place:)
K04 tubular manifold for 1.8turbo
More welds there to "crack"
Yes i`ve considered that too but its a associated risk i`m willing to take on.
And the cost to me will be peanuts as it`ll be me that`s taking that head off, Plus my Octy 4x4 will get my around while the heads off
£200quid a time for genuine at retail? £180ish on trade. Unless you get some cheap crap from euros or something.
found this for all you guys that dont like the V3
A very interesting read.
Whats that proving?
We all know they flow well. Then we found out the V2 flowed even better because they compromised the flow trying to make it stronger and more reliable. Now the V2 manifolds are sought after massively. The V3 has to be ported too ideally.
Still doesnt dispute the fact they`ll crack and they`re a tw&t to fit.
If material A were claimed made to a spec, which was supposed to withstand X degrees for example, and it was found to be failling, it would be rather interesting to see if Material A was infact what it was claimed to be, or possibly a lower grade, which might explain an unexpected failure rate....
Not everyone is out to get you dude....
Yeah spark arc test or more scientific, spectroscopic analysis... which costs a few quid...
Well the day has come. Finally got started on pulling the engine outta the S3.
So far i haven't needed to drill any seized bolts but am not holding my breath lol
Drive shaft bolts was a pita to remove but did come out in one piece:)
And this is where i left off today.
Is it necessary to remove the sub frame to get access to the prop shaft bolts?
ooo do tell:)
Just three bolts... access is from the tunnel... just have to jam something up between the prop flange and the tranfer box while you undo them... awkward but not difficult..
does this idea involve removing the to Cat gain access through the tunnel?
How you have it now, its so easy to get to the 3 bolts from the front and reach down...just get grinding with the engine.....lol
10MM 12 point for reference...
Cheers for the reference Dave
Still waiting for IE Tuscan rods and ARP stud kits for the head and main to arrive but got the new OEM oil pump,pick up line, chain tensioner and OEM head gasket.
I'm hoping to get the engine out tomorrow as the drive shafts are already separated and most of the wiring has been tagged for identification and disconnected so it just be gaining access to the prop shaft flange and un bolting and it should fall out lol
Now that i remember i might just remove the sub frame as it could do with a clean and paint as its looking a bit rusty but that will require further work to remove the rack and a few odds n sods
Wells today was another successful days work.
Got the engine out and got the snapped bolt that holds the dog bone to the sub frame as some body must of just reused the old stretch bolts and surprise surprise they snapped when i was taking the dog bone off.
Seems to be a tradition on here so heres a pic of me in the empty engine bay:)
And the crack propagation in the turbo hot side and manifold so thats fit for the bin
The clutch friction disc looked like its worn squint
They do that... thats slipping the clutch in pulling away etc...
Like flex in the friction disc upon first contact?
Identicle cracks to mine.
Great engine bay pic. We really need to get a thread of these going....
Lol when I pulled the engine I kept think there's some thing I'm forgetting.....ah yes the engine bay mug shot:)
AEB head for £90. Worth a punt for the big port head?