I am so looking forward to seeing this beauty running
Chop chop !!!
Are you looking to attend any shows with her once she is done ?
I am so looking forward to seeing this beauty running
Chop chop !!!
Are you looking to attend any shows with her once she is done ?
Shouldn't be long now fella :thumbsup:
Dude you should have come over, you would have been more than welcome, we try to remain approachable as possible, always space for another mind and point of view mate.
Aragorn isnt a million miles from you tbh, he is in Cleaveleys.
I was going to, It was just as I arrived and sort of just got lost amongst the crowd really. Didn't actually stay that long. I have met Aragorn, I picked up some gearbox flanges from him. Turned out I didn't need them but this happens! I'm sure we will get the opportunity to meet again though me thinks. I'm hoping to get to at least a few events this year!
Dude, amazing car and loving the latest write-up. Hopefully one day get to see it at an event.
I received some good news today in the form of a DHL tracking number and an email containing my V1.02 firmware update, that's the 034 order finally fulfilled! Happy days. Should get the coolant system & exhaust finished off this weekend and small little bits are arriving everyday now. Fetching 4 new rear caliper carrier bolts tomorrow from Audi so should get the rear brakes on this week. I should get this rolling very soon, I think I now have everything I need on the way and I'm starting to get nervous!
I opted to run this Torco oil during the break in and the NGK BKR8EIX plugs gapped at 0.75, I will resist the urge to turn the key until I intend to drive it, those first few minutes / miles are the most crucial to engine break in. This oil will only see the inside of an engine for 30 minutes tops before being drained. I will then switch to a cheap 30 weight mineral oil until its done 1000 miles or so, then the motor & clutch should be bedded in for some dyno time on moderate boost & timing to a sensible redline to further bed the engine in, a 1000 miles after that I will add a water/meth pump in the absence of E85 in my area and see what this baby can do!
lets hope theres no leaks then lol
I've got a box of M10x1.5x40 here, they're also 12.9 class as opposed to the Audi crap.
Get the bl**dy rears on cant wait!
If you hear some hooligan in the street running anti lag any time soon Dave, t'will be me!
Managed to fetch the bolts from Audi and set to getting the rear brakes fitted. All fitted and they look the badgers nadgers! I'm well happy with them, as always the camera doesn't do them any justice, just got to hurry up and use them before the weather turns them to crap.
Dave I can't thank you enough for all your help with everything brake related on my car, you are a legend. :icon_thumright:
And back on all fours, feels better to see on the ground.
I've now received everything from 034 Motorsport, the coolant port fitting is now fitted and I quickly made up the turbo feed hose. Fluids will be going into the motor tomorrow! The V band flange will need a visit to a lathe before I can finish up the exhaust, I was very tempted to take a grinder to the male lip on the down pipe flange and remove the problem, but I resisted and I will do it the right way.
I've waited along time to make this simple hose!!!
Fitted to the coolant flange at the rear of the cylinder head
Turbo end, I also finally put the V band clamp in a more aesthetic position.
That's it for now.
They look fantastic mate, it was a good/right decision to go OEM, must have felt good just to fit them with no issues about fitment.
****** to the cost mate we're here for a good time not a long time!!!
They do look great dont they!
Coming together now bud!
I'm well chuffed with the set up and they do look the business. Fitting was obviously a quick straight forward affair. Hoses will be needed though, I will have to knock up a drawing of what I need and email it over as the coupe is dead again and I ain't fixing it anymore! I will check what the fronts need tomorrow night and fire some pics over your way
Just read through this entire thread, that's some really nice work you have done! Especially on the brakes! GT40 Calipers, yes please!
this thing is just awsome,
keep up the great work mayte
I'm busy fitting the wiring into the car at the moment, I think the ECU is going have to live behind the battery which means I need a smaller battery! The ECU is set up and ready to go and the wideband controller is finally fitted after its open air calibration. This weekend should see some monster progress to get this thing ready to test drive, just loads of little bits need finishing off and fitting!
Anyone know which is the fuel pump relay?
372 if i remember right
Cheers fella, I suppose It would be easy enough to test, just pull it out and turn the key, if the pressure gauge don't move, bingo!
Spent the afternoon running all the looms properly through the car, I've hunted down the wires in the original wiring I need to connect to, which is only the fuel pump relay, the tach, coolant temp for dash, ground, +12V & switched 12V. I traced them back to the connectors under the ECU which simplfies the connections and makes it possible to strip out the looms should I have to. I would like to fit a clutch pedal switch for flat shifts & launch control/Anti lag for when I get brave. Would you believe it there is already a bracket to mount one so I will look for the original part in ETKA and get it ordered. Just need another hour or two in the morning and I should have the wiring done.
Hopefully I will get a battery to fit in there!
sooooo close now! bet you cant wait.....well i cant lol
Makes me feel like a child at Christmas all over again, I'm so tempted to fire it up just to hear it! Shouldn't be long now though, I still need to organise or purchase a decent video camera to capture all the action, I'm nervous now to be honest.
Loving your work mate, did you weld a bead on the ends of the charge pipes where they connect to silicon? Just in my experience any charge pipe not bead rolled or equiv has a tendency to pop off under boost... even with t-bolt clamps...
Cheers for the heads up though fella
Right then this it! Car has a few little things to finish off, I'm off work tomorrow so the car will be in one piece by the end of tomorrow ready to shake down come hell or high water, I have the flood lights on standby in case it turns into an all nighter. The car is in for 4 wheel laser alignment down the road first thing Saturday morning, when I get it back I will be firing it up and taking her out!
Here are some random pics of the current state.
Yep they are my intercooler pipes in half! Back to the drawing board for a quick mod for better intercooler placement and the addition of the bead rolled ends, they look much better then my attempts.
I have decided to take on the tuning myself now, I had lined a guy up to do this for me. But I came to the conclusion that if this thing is going to be tuned damn near perfect it would take alot of hours & dough, plus the fact I thought I was missing the point of standalone, I have been lurking on motorgeek for a while and I've realised its easier than I thought (plus the fact tuning is really, really expensive for some reason!). I can gain access to a dyno which should save me a bunch and I will learn loads by doing this, It may end up costing me alot to learn but hey I guess its the name of the game and education has always been expensive! lol
Next post will be a vid hopefully, wish me luck. :kissmyrings:
GL, tho i am sure you have all bases covered, and she will fire up straight away
Started up after a cough & fart first time, no leaks & it appears as if everything is wired correctly. Once up to temp I set off for a drive but there was a big clunk in the rear near side, I'm guessing one of the CV's isn't happy so I'm going to check it out tomorrow. Weird thing is you can push it around without a problem and it doesn't make a noise, I hope it can be rectified easily without the need for parts.
The Supertech valve train ain't half noisy either is that normal anyone know? In any case I think a peek under the rocker cover is in order before I start it again to check it looks OK, I guess there bound to be louder with the dual springs and increased seat pressure. The motor was making good vacuum at idle which is always a good sign and is rock solid at 950rpm and had a nice burble to it. I will get a vid tomorrow of it running, I was kinda frantic today as you can imagine, dashing between the laptop and the engine! Its a big relief to finally see it run, I will sleep well tonight!
Some random pics, still needs tidying up a bit
And my temporary filter! The HSK one I have wont fit onto the turbo, I can feel a cold air pipe joining the job list!
Woop, well done that man.
I love the er air filter.LOL
nice one! look forward to hearing it all running
Should hopefully get one tomorrow and go for a spin tomorrow night, I will try and get some footage for you guys, does sound nice just idling. I took a look at the top end and everything looks fine, there's plenty of oil so I guess the valve train is just a bit noisier because of the hardcore set up.
CV's replaced and I have been breaking the motor in gradually, the noise I thought was the valve train is piston slap! Apparently its normal for JE's to slap at idle, and when I think about a 4 thou clearance is gonna do that, just didn't think about it before hand so was surprised! I've been out and about though, only seen 5psi this far and it absolutely flies! However cylinder 1 is now squeaking!?! It started on Saturday and its getting worse, the motor needs a fair amount of throttle to make it idle as well, so something is tightening up, I've pulled the motor & gearbox this morning, the block is on the stand and everything looks good so far, there a few high spots in the bores, but I suspect the small end/ wrist pin is causing the noise. Integrated Engineering didnt offer the rifle drilled rods when I ordered mine, this is to help this problem as mine relies on oil falling in the hole at the top of the rod to lubricate the pin! Anyway I'm going to pull the piston in cyl 1 now and see whats up, luckily the oil didnt have anything alarming in it so looks like I may get away with this one!
FFS that sucks mate. So close yet so far...
I hope its a simple de burring/clearencing that needs to be done
Yeah not good hey, but I guess this is all part of the challenge, I will not be defeated! Chances are I'm just being paranoid and should have just revved the crap out of it until it went away but I wanted to know what it is! The bottom end rotates really easily on the stand, no tight spots and its stopped f**kin squeakin now! typical. Unsure weather or not to throw it all back together and just drive through it!?!
No good news unfortunately, its actually a bit embarrassing! But the bottom end is toast. After my last post I decided to open up the bottom end for an inspection before chucking it back in the chassis, it was obvious what the problem was. The bearings where completely hammered! The bloody oil pump was loose! I guess this is what happens when your phone never stops ringing and your forever stopping what your doing. Needless to say the crank was gouged really heavily so there was no rescuing that, the bearings were also knackered, even rods in cyl 1&2 have been so hot they must have been glowing in the sump! God knows how they didn't snap, there a nice colour now though lol, but useless and all finished off in only 2 miles.
So yes I'am an idiot and yes I have already paid the price, namely £500 worth of fresh sheets to rebuild it. On the brightside though, the block survived as did the pistons. I've also learned some valuable lessons.....
1. Turn your phone off and lock yourself in a room when building engines, distractions cause the mother of all balls ups!
2. I've Stopped hand tightening bolts in, I leave them sticking out until there torqued down now.
3. Tighten your f@cking oil pump down!
4. Get an oil pressure gauge.
So at the moment the motor is back in a million pieces, Ive spent a week cleaning out the mess and luckily none of it got into the head or turbo, just scattered itself around the bottom end. I have a new crank on the way (well actually a complete motor) This time I will hang on to the 2.0 litre block as its essentially the same as an 058 block just has a taller deck height, just in case. I've also ordered a new set, yes all 4 Integrated Engineering rods, I would have happily run the cylinder 3&4 rods again except Integrated Engineering don't have any in stock with comparable weights so some serious balancing would have been required. There also sending out some new bearings to get this thing back together. So all in all I dropped a big one, I guess im lucky to get another shot at building this motor. Should be back together & rolling in another week.
:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead::banghead:
Ah thats really bad luck,but its happend now and not much can be done about that,still glad to see you post all your highs and lows :icon_thumright:
Still fantastic project mate,cant wait to see some dyno figures!
mummy i want one pleassssse
Well its a Bank holiday today and I'm unfortunately I'm at work so obviously its the perfect time to update the thread! The block is now stripped of everything and is ready to go back to the machine shop for a very light honing, im looking for an extra half a thou clearance, this will change the piston ring end gaps slightly but not so much that I need to worry about it. I install the crank main caps when machining blocks to try and simulate the built up deflection caused by this, ideally a slave plate should also be torqued in place of the cylinder head but since I dont have one I will just have to crack on without it. I plan to gauge the current bore sizes tonight before honing is done.
Also since I haven't posted a picture of the required internal clearancing before here it is, you can see the rather severe chamfers at the base of each bore and the ground back crankcase walls, this is required so the con rods can actually rotate through the crank case, just shows how tight these 058 blocks are, this isn't required on the later 06A blocks but the cranks are harder to come by and usually cost alot more. My recommendation to anyone thinking of building a 2.0 litre would be to get your hands on a ABK block, it has a taller deck height, more structural ribs and allows the use of a longer rod (better rod/stroke ratio) and saves all this custom work. The 20 valve head will still fit on this block and is already tapped for longitudinal engine mounts so it will still drop into a B5 chassis. Obviously the pistons would have to be made accordingly as there would be a difference in the pin height to a normal 20 valve piston. If I ever properly crunch this current engine this is the route I will take.
Props on the DIY, err Fast Car got Murdered Out 350Z | Fast Car Magazine wrapped by Raccoon and only had good things to say. Best of luck with the re-rebuild.