Changing from Variable interval oil services?

[Nessy]

Apologies if this has been asked before, but the search function at the moment keeps throwing up a 'database error' whenever I try and use it!
The family have just acquired a 2000 A6 2.5 TDi (160k miles) that has been maintained all its life on the AVS servicing system with the long-life oil.
Looking at the fsh that came with the car it is apparent that this has equated to an oil change every 20k miles or so.
Now, not being used to this system (and being a bit distrustful of such long service intervals tbh) I was thinking of giving the engine a flush and using Synta Gold fully synthetic oil instead , with changes every 10k.
Are there any reasons why this shouldn't be done?
This is my first experience of the V6 diesel, so any advice welcomed!

Thanks.

[fjtwelve]

Definitely go for the 10000 mile interval. Your engine is in the age group for a batch of defective camshafts, and the problem is exacerbated by long life oil changes.
As far as the oil brand is concerned i use Shell, but read up on the posts by Oilman on here, very informative.
Not sure which engine you've got (150/163/180) but I would work your way around changing all the filters. Clean the MAF. Run a VAGCOM check. Check when all the drive belts were last changed, you should be due a change anytime now if they've been done on time. Any funny noises from the front end are likely to be wheel bearings/CV joints/suspension bushes. Not particularly expensive to fix. Shock absorbers if original will be way past there working life at your mileage. Replace - you'll be amazed at the difference in ride quality. Tyres - i found Continental to be the best mix. Goodyears are good but wear out. Pirellis/Dunlops not so good. You may be approaching the end of the brake disc life by now, take a look.
When you're happy everything is in order, chip it. Get rid of that low down sluggishness. Enjoy. You'll find your A4 is nippier around town but long runs the A6 will be better every time.

[Nessy]

Definitely go for the 10000 mile interval. Your engine is in the age group for a batch of defective camshafts, and the problem is exacerbated by long life oil changes.
As far as the oil brand is concerned i use Shell, but read up on the posts by Oilman on here, very informative.
Not sure which engine you've got (150/163/180) but I would work your way around changing all the filters. Clean the MAF. Run a VAGCOM check. Check when all the drive belts were last changed, you should be due a change anytime now if they've been done on time. Any funny noises from the front end are likely to be wheel bearings/CV joints/suspension bushes. Not particularly expensive to fix. Shock absorbers if original will be way past there working life at your mileage. Replace - you'll be amazed at the difference in ride quality. Tyres - i found Continental to be the best mix. Goodyears are good but wear out. Pirellis/Dunlops not so good. You may be approaching the end of the brake disc life by now, take a look.
When you're happy everything is in order, chip it. Get rid of that low down sluggishness. Enjoy. You'll find your A4 is nippier around town but long runs the A6 will be better every time.

Thanks for the reply, would have replied sooner had I realised there had been a post,lol.
Called into my local VW dealer the other day from where I get most of my service parts from (much cheaper than the Audi dealer up the road!!) and bought some Quantum Platinum oil (which has apparently now replaced Synta Gold) , so will do services every 10K methinks.
Car has a huge history file, luckily all belts and water pump were only done 8K miles ago , its 'only' a 150 bhp Tiptronic auto but drives as smooth as silk, intend to do all the filters and an oil service when I can get the time!
Checked it with my Vag.com lead and no fault codes were found, have a non-functioning oil temperature gauge on dash so I think the problem might be on the dash as would have thought the temp sender on engine would have thrown up a code if it had been faulty?
Have just fixed the (apparently) common problem of no puddle lights /interior lights on drivers door due to a sticking microswitch on the door lock mechanism but am a bit stumped now by an oil leak from underneath of engine.....
Doubt if it is the engine breather as it was only replaced about 20K miles ago, but as the V6 engine appears so big without too much access around it it's hard to know exactly where it's coming from.......its coming from above the alternator so not very easy to see......

[fjtwelve]

I use my local Skoda dealer as they can do/supply most things the Audi dealer can, and their labour rates are about 2/3 of Audis and i got 10% discount last time i went in - we now take both cars there.
Any oil leaks i have had have been from the cam cover seal and the head gasket