BALLS!!! changing the aux belt tensioner bushes (pivot bolt on PAS bracket) HELP 2.5

audi2.5tdi

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went to replace the timing belts and associated parts today to find the noise I have wasnt the aircon tensioner, but inface the bearing in the aux belt tensioner had failed causing the long serpentine belt to rub clean through the timing belt cover

it would appear that the "top hat" bushes have failed

now getting the parts is easy enough, but what i cant seem to do is remove the old threaded pin and bushes from the PAS bracket

anyone have any idea how this is done??

i think the bracket will need removing but after that i cant see how the pin and bushes are held in!

the cars a 99 2.5 tdi v6 AFB engine code
 
I'm just in the middle of this very task!
The bolt (27) needs a 13mm spanner, accessible (ish!) from the back. I bent one of my 13mm spanners to access it
However it is a locking bolt. Chances are if you can turn it, the whole lot turns.
The book says to shear the head.

I screwed in a longer bolt with two locknuts from the front to try and hold the bearing/bush (item 25) whilst I undid/sheared the bolt
I tried and failed, so drilled through from the front and then managed to shear the now weakened head using my lock-bolt setup in the front.

I then replaced all the parts, 22-27. £30 from Audi.
 
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I'm just in the middle of this very task!
The bolt (27) needs a 13mm spanner, accessible (ish!) from the back. I bent one of my 13mm spanners to access it
However it is a locking bolt. Chances are if you can turn it, the whole lot turns.
The book says to shear the head.

I screwed in a longer bolt with two locknuts from the front to try and hold the bearing/bush (item 25) whilst I undid/sheared the bolt
I tried and failed, so drilled through from the front and then managed to shear the now weakened head using my lock-bolt setup in the front.

I then replaced all the parts, 22-27. £30 from Audi.

did you have to remove the bracket from the car, or once the head of the bolt it sheared off does the sleve come out the front?
 
I didn't have to remove the bracket.
Where there was wear in the bush it was very thin. I tapped it inwards with a small chisel and collapsed it to remove it like a squished tin can. The aft bush came out with a well selected socket and hammer.

Putting the aft bush back was different!
I used various levers to get it in as far as I could, then made a puller with a long bolt.
 
so with the bolt snapped out the back does the threaded sleve push/pull out or is there something else holding it in? (apart from the thin bush) i cant see why with the front bolt removed, the tensioner arm removed why the whole sleve, bush and bolt out the back doesnt tap out the back of the bracket?
 
It's a daft design so it hits the block ! Had fun removing a sleeve on which someone could not be bothered to order the rebuild parts from dealer and made a mess of the whole bit- they tack welded the bolts and washers in place ! I had to replace the whole bracket in the end, could not believe someone can take all the time removing the bracket and bodge it this way !
 
It won't go back, but once the head is off the back bolt you can pull the pin (item 25) forward by screwing a bolt back in and a pair of pliers. There is a washer and seal (items 24 and 26) that will fall off at the back.

The problem with removing the bracket is (as far as I could see) is you will need the oil cooler gasket changed, with all the problems that may cause.
 
yeah i ordered that from TPS on saturday! along with all the shims, threaded sleve, new tensioner, all the aux rollers etc

think the cam covers are next, the whole block is soaked in oil! wither that or the head gaskets are toast!

the injector seals are not ever visable from the sealant thats been piled all over them!