JMB RetrofitsChris Nott
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  1. #1
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    1996 black a4 paint

    Hi, i've recently bought the above car and it needs paint restoration. The black looks as if its been waxed numorous times (badly) and has buffer scratches here and there. i'm afraid if i t-cut it too much i might get thin on paint so i have a few questions....

    What's the best black paint renovator to use?

    I'm new to detailing so can anyone give me a step by step guide of the best product to use from shampoo to polish?

    Whats best to use on a few hairline but deep scratches without having the entre door resprayed?

    Cheers

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  3. #2
    A3Tom's Avatar
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    You need to have a read of this,...

    Recommended products/routine for solid dark Audi's

    Its pretty much all you need to know about getting a good finish on your black A4

    T
    2000 Audi A3 1.8T Sport - Custom Code Phase 1 remap / Custom Stainless Catback Exhuast / MKII 18" RS4 Reps / Wietec Ultra GT40mm / KW ARB's / Forge TIP / Forge 007 / Green Panel Filter / EBC Greenstuff pads / 312mm S3 front brake upgrade / Aero Wipers / LED Interior Lights / LED Side Repeaters / Face Lift Rear Lights and covered in Dodo Juice

  4. #3
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    Hi, g'day there.

    It'd be handy if you could post a few pics of the car?

    If you're working by hand, there are a few products you might want to take a look at. Personally, Dodo Juice Limeprime / Meguiars Ultimate Compound and AutoGlym Super Resin Polish.

    Reading some of the Polished Bliss FAQ's could be a good starting place..

    Also, not sure if this is any use to you, but, I've wrote a bit of a Dummies Guide to washing and maintaining the finish.. check it out, let me know if its of any use to you.

    and remember, pictures!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmeh View Post
    Hi, g'day there.

    It'd be handy if you could post a few pics of the car?

    If you're working by hand, there are a few products you might want to take a look at. Personally, Dodo Juice Limeprime / Meguiars Ultimate Compound and AutoGlym Super Resin Polish.

    Reading some of the Polished Bliss FAQ's could be a good starting place..

    Also, not sure if this is any use to you, but, I've wrote a bit of a Dummies Guide to washing and maintaining the finish.. check it out, let me know if its of any use to you.

    and remember, pictures!
    Ok will do, i'll post some up tomorrow of the damage. Thanks for the help and i'll make sure i'll leave some feedback for your guide.

    Cheers!

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    I've got some pics of the car and paintwork





    I know it's mostly a close up of my phone but if you look closely you can see the fine scratches that cover the car



    These scratches look a lot worse in the picture and are not down to the metal



    This scratch is down to the metal though but not very thick



    And this is a scratch on the dash, any one know how to make it look a bit neater?

    Cheers

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    Jimmeh's Avatar
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    ouch! I see what you mean fella.

    It's worth giving the above ago, by hand, but, if i'm honest, you'll benefit most from having a machine pushed round with the appropriate pad/polish etc.

    Not sure on the plastic interior scuff, sorry
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    do you think it'll have enough paint left on it to machine it?

    And how much do you think roughly a proffessional would charge?

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    Theres no sure way to tell apart from using the PTG (paint depth guage) to work around the car.. you say it's got a few 'buffer' marks around the car, obviously had some work done in a previous life.. you're being wise in not going in guns blazin' with the likes of T-cut though.. Try SRP - contains slight abrasives but, is filler heavy. (which is deal IF the paint is a bit on the thin side)

    Prices, pfft, anwhere from 250 - 500 really.. (and beyond..)

    Depends solely on the amount of work required, and, how 'far' the defect 'chasing' will go.
    Last edited by Jimmeh; 28th September 2009 at 22:13.
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    A3Tom's Avatar
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    I'd say that needs a good machine polish, even then it wont be defect free but it'll look a million times better.

    For a start though I'd suggest a meguires quick clay kit to get the paint super clean and then some Autoglym Super Resin Polish and Scratchx coupled with elbow grease. This is based on 'high street' products to get you started.

    T
    2000 Audi A3 1.8T Sport - Custom Code Phase 1 remap / Custom Stainless Catback Exhuast / MKII 18" RS4 Reps / Wietec Ultra GT40mm / KW ARB's / Forge TIP / Forge 007 / Green Panel Filter / EBC Greenstuff pads / 312mm S3 front brake upgrade / Aero Wipers / LED Interior Lights / LED Side Repeaters / Face Lift Rear Lights and covered in Dodo Juice

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    500? I think i'll print off the guide and roll my sleeves up.

    Cheers for the advice mate

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    Quote Originally Posted by A3Tom View Post
    I'd say that needs a good machine polish, even then it wont be defect free but it'll look a million times better.

    For a start though I'd suggest a meguires quick clay kit to get the paint super clean and then some Autoglym Super Resin Polish and Scratchx coupled with elbow grease. This is based on 'high street' products to get you started.

    T
    Ok will have a look for the meguires clay kit on ebay now. I have autoglym paint renovator, is that the same?

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    Noooo, no no no. A clay bar lifts contaminents off the bodies surface (prior to polishing..) Ever felt the car and thought it felt a bit 'rough'? It's burried under years of fallout, sap, rail/brake dust and crud that has settled on the paint, and, wont be shifted on your usual wash..

    I think the Paint Renovator is quite rough? (abrasive?!) can anyone help me on this.. I have it, but, barely used.

    *EDIT, apologies if you were asking if the paint reno was the same as SRP/scratchX (i thought you were asking about the clay lol)
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    Clay bar suggested because looking at the paint as it is....I'm guessing it needs one prior to polish going anywhere near it
    2000 Audi A3 1.8T Sport - Custom Code Phase 1 remap / Custom Stainless Catback Exhuast / MKII 18" RS4 Reps / Wietec Ultra GT40mm / KW ARB's / Forge TIP / Forge 007 / Green Panel Filter / EBC Greenstuff pads / 312mm S3 front brake upgrade / Aero Wipers / LED Interior Lights / LED Side Repeaters / Face Lift Rear Lights and covered in Dodo Juice

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    Do i don't i clay it?

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    Do. Definately. (sorry if I'd confused..)
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9 below zero View Post
    Do i don't i clay it?

    Yep, give the car a wash and then clay it, then give it a rinse off and start with the polish.

    The clay will lift all the bonded on crud that the wash doesnt shift, leaving you with a lice glassy surface to polish
    2000 Audi A3 1.8T Sport - Custom Code Phase 1 remap / Custom Stainless Catback Exhuast / MKII 18" RS4 Reps / Wietec Ultra GT40mm / KW ARB's / Forge TIP / Forge 007 / Green Panel Filter / EBC Greenstuff pads / 312mm S3 front brake upgrade / Aero Wipers / LED Interior Lights / LED Side Repeaters / Face Lift Rear Lights and covered in Dodo Juice

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmeh View Post
    Noooo, no no no. A clay bar lifts contaminents off the bodies surface (prior to polishing..) Ever felt the car and thought it felt a bit 'rough'? It's burried under years of fallout, sap, rail/brake dust and crud that has settled on the paint, and, wont be shifted on your usual wash..

    I think the Paint Renovator is quite rough? (abrasive?!) can anyone help me on this.. I have it, but, barely used.

    *EDIT, apologies if you were asking if the paint reno was the same as SRP/scratchX (i thought you were asking about the clay lol)
    Autoglym paint renovator is fairly abrasive but is ideal if using it by hand, in localised areas, you just have to keep checking your paint regularly and gradually apply lighter pressure. If the paint is scratched like that over the entire car, you will be there for days trying to correct it mate and the results would probably not be great. If you want the best results i would suggest investing in a machine or biting the bullet and paying someone to do it.
    Jimmeh would advise you better than me on this subject but have you tried a glaze (eg. poorboys Blackhole) this may mask some defects cheaply.
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    Quote Originally Posted by A3Tom View Post
    Yep, give the car a wash and then clay it, then give it a rinse off and start with the polish.

    The clay will lift all the bonded on crud that the wash doesnt shift, leaving you with a lice glassy surface to polish
    So i wash it first with a cup full of car shampoo mixed with warm water...

    Then i clay it...

    Then use the autoglym paint renovator...

    Then I polish it with what make polish?

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    Alot of it, you're going to have to pick up yourself. What works best for you.. etc

    Only you know the condition of the car, it's a case of reading around (www.detailingworld.co.uk) and picking up hints and tips as you go.

    Read this to get some ideas - Recommended products/routine for solid dark Audi's

    PERSONALLY, if I had no access to anything other than 'off-the shelf' products (halfords etc) I'ld choose AutoGlym Super Resin Polish. Maybe a couple of coats..

    I did an S-Type Jag last year sometime.. I worked SRP by DA and the results were fantastic (filling abilities.. ) let me dig out the photo.
    Last edited by Jimmeh; 29th September 2009 at 17:27.
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    Ok thanks mate, i'll post the results ASAP to see if i'm on the right path

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    Okay. Take one very tired looking Jaguar S-Type:




    Wash (by whatever means necessary)




    and clay..




    Now, this is where AG SRP came in (albeit by a polishing pad and DA (good results ARE possible by hand.. you just have to put the effort in))

    So, take one very hazed (and water spotted) bonnet. Then polish half of it with SRP:



    50/50:






    Polish an (overly large, oops lol) area on the tailgate:



    and reap the rewards:




    The n/s rear quater, very badly swirled:




    But again, after a couple of passes with SRP:






    But please, do not be fooled. SRP will only correct/mask SO MUCH of the damage.. Take this mark on the upper rear quater of the n/s wing for example..



    It was a keying mark that the owner asked I pay special attention too..

    Now although SRP tidied it (And the surrounding areas) up, it wouldn't shift it, because it was pretty deep:





    Still visible, and tbh, quite bad.

    It took a couple of hits of a stronger compound to remove on a polishing pad.. SRP alone wont 'win it all'.


    Here is the car after:









    Perfect? No. But, a damned sight better.

    We all know of Audi paint to generally be quite hard. So, have a play, examine and see how you go.
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    impressive.

    I'm going to go by hand first and 'feel' the car.

    Then when I lose my head i'll unleash fury on the stubborn marks with a machine.

    Then i'll go and see a professional to fix my attempt at a detail.

 

 

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