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  1. #1
    AHV
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    Question Best detail routine for Phantom Black Metallic

    I love cleaning cars and my neighbours must think I'm nuts but hey, whatever floats my boat. Even with this commitment to cleaning, I've never really done any detailing.

    Looking through this site and various retailers, I can see why I've never tried, there are multiple products, from multiple companies, and even one brand can have numerous polishes, pads etc etc. I've nosed around Juicy Detailing and even here I can not get my head round which of the products best suit my paint finish, what order do I apply them in, using what tools. As a example there is a detailing machine polishing kit that is the same price as kit 3, but which would be best for the Phantom Black.

    If anyone could help me out as to which products, the order of application and the kit I should use on Phantom Black then that would be brill. Currently, 35k on the clock, swirl marks in the sun, some stone chips showing up as pale specs across the bonnet, and almost the effect of sandblastings just behind the wheel arches, probably from being driven fast on dirty roads. Will probably be bringing it to AITP so perhaps could have a nose and give some advice.

    Thanks in advance

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  3. #2
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    Car Care Advice | Detailing Advice | Polished Bliss

    Awesome info on there mate.
    Not too sure on products for black (not sure it changes much with car colour) but for how to's etc. Gleaming!

  4. #3
    moag's Avatar
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    If you want to remove swirls and paint defects then you need to consider buying a rotary or DA machine polisher as audi paint is rock solid. The problem with machine polishing is that everyone has their own opinion on which products and technique are best, so you will get lots of different recommendations with regards to products etc!

    General consensus is that a DA polisher is safer for those who haven't machine polished before, however it will take longer to achieve the same results as you will with a rotary. Rotarys spin faster, generate more heat and its a lot easier to damage your paint, however they work a lot faster than the DA.

    Pad choice will depend on which type of polisher you choose. For DA I use the orange and white hex logic pads with the megs 105 and 205 polishes. For rotary you will be able to use a pad with slightly less cut to achieve the same results. For best results on black you will want to use a glaze before applying wax or sealant - poor boys black hole or chemical guys ez creme would be my recommendation. Then wax/sealant - theres hundreds to choose from and everyone has their own opinions, for black I would use chemical guys black light or one of the dodo juice polishes.

    Some other things you may want to consider - clay bar, tar remover, fallout remover (Iron X or similar), all purpose cleaner, wheel cleaner etc

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  5. #4
    Juicy Jen's Avatar
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    The process that you should look to follow is:

    Pre-wash using snow foam
    rinse
    wash using the 2 bucket method, a decent wash mitt and shampoo
    rinse
    decontaminate the vehicle using products such as Iron X and clay
    wash using the 2 bucket method above
    dry
    polish either by machine or hand
    glaze
    sealant or wax or both - which ever you prefer

    hope that helps you get started....

    The difference between kit 1 and 3 is the pads as 1 is hex logic and 3 are 3M pads.....

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  6. #5
    AHV
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    Thanks for that, you can tell I'm new to this by the next question.

    What is the 2 bucket method, and I guess if you get seen using a sponge you'll be shot?

    When dry ing do you use a microfiber or chamois?

    Does the snow foam come as a special tool?

  7. #6
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    Here is a link explaining the wash process and 2 buckets:

    Car Washing | Articles

    When using a sponge (the standard 50p ones) what you find is that any dirt on the car remains on the top of the sponge which you then merrily wipe over your paintwork, this in turn causes scratches and imperfections which we generally describe as 'swirls'. However with a lambswool wash mitt the dirt particles go into the hair length of the mitt taking them away from the paintwork, thus minimising damage. You then rinse the mitt in the rinse bucket and the dirt particles fall to the bottom and get trapped by the grit guard.

    For drying - a similar theory to the 50p songs in regard to using a chamois. As it's flat any remaining dirt will be rubbed into the paint, however if you use a large Microfibre which we class as a drying towel you can prevent this happening. Again there is a method to drying which is rather than rub or drag over the car, lay it flat and pat dry. Now this might sound quite time consuming however you get into a rhythm of doing this and it takes no longer than rubbing and helps to reduce imperfections as much as possible.

    The wash/dry process is the most important to master as this will prolong the condition of your car.

    For snow foam and pre-washing we use a specific lance that connects to your pressure washer. Depending on the make you have will depend on the fitment you require. Here is a link to one of our snow foams kits:

    Snow Foam and Lance Kit | Pre-Wash Foam | Washing & Drying | Juicy Detailing

    This is a link to a video on tha main pre-wash page showing you snow foam in action:

    Pre-Wash Foam | Washing & Drying | Juicy Detailing

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  8. #7
    AHV
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    Thanks Juicy Jen, all I need to do now is get the kit, hopefully they'll be some traders at AITP for me to nose at. It'll also be good to get some advice off other members as to the best approach to cleaning my motor.

 

 

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