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  1. #1
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    Repolishing car advice

    Hi all I've got a a4 cab in blue when I brought the car I payed and had the car treated with autoglym which made the car look amazing. I hand wash the car regually and take good car of it. I've had the car 2 years now and I've started to notice the rain doesnt run off the car in some places like it did.

    I want to give the car a good treatment of wax and protector to bring back the high gloss shine and protection. Im not sure whether to stick with the auto glym polish and treatment or whether to use other products because I want a really high gloss shine on the car and if I do how would this affect the life shine ect?

    There's also alot of stone chips on the front of the car so at some point in the future when I've saved some money I want to get these sorted but the question should I get the stone chips done before I treat the car or can these be done at a later date??

    Last question is that I've noticed that down by the wheel arches there is white patches on the paintwork which is salt from the roads I've tried to wash it off with hot water but it doesn't seem to shift it. Does anyone know how to remove the white patches without damaging the paintwork ??

    Any advice on what products and how to go about it woe be most apriciated :-)

    Thanks

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  3. #2
    cloughy's Avatar
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    Just get the touch up kit from Audi (about £9)to sort out the chips, it does the job very well

    ironX then clay bar to get rid of the contaminates

    If your not looking for correction just a good polish and wax then autoglym SRP would be very good as a polish that would fill in the swirls as would poorboys black hole

    then a sealant/wax over the top

    I've started using CG blacklight which is very impressive

    I use collinite 476 wax over the winter as its very hard and durable

    So many options and opinions in this area but that's my 2p

  4. #3
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    white patches? oo er missus! lol
    seriously tho get some pics up as i am curious!
    i like having a shiney motor so even if thinking of a respray to your stone chips i still like to have a shiney motor! so i would polish and wax anyway, as the prep work alone for paint will remove anything you have applied and once the fresh paint has cured after a month or two then the whole car would need re-doing again with polish and wax!
    regarding products, everybody has there favourites and there are so many to choose so i wont even advise as its all about the money your willing to fork out ultimately!
    what you need to do though is sort out your products you need, sort out a regime and do a thorough good job!
    i love spending a full day getting it done!
    a good starter is, wash car with a detox wash! to remove old products, (use the 2 bucket method and a mitt) no yellow sponge lol so 1980"S
    dry car with a decent towel, (no chamois these scratch) and so 1980"s
    clay the car with a decent clay bar kit, to remove surface contaminants stuck to your paint prior to polishing,
    polish car,
    wax car,
    stand back and admire!
    repeat twice a year!


  5. #4
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    ok this sounds a bit daft, but whats the difrance between polishing a car , and waxing it?
    my a4 cab in dark blue looks lovley, but thers a few swirly marks here n there, and the odd stone chip on the front,i wash it and wax it a LOT using mer wash n wax, and mer car wax
    i also use water-less car wash, (showroom shine) and this makes it look ace, i wonderd if i am doing somthing silly and have to use a polish or somthing, as i thought waxing and polishing was the same thing??

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    Polishing actually removes a fine layer from the surface, i.e removing swirls etc and waxing protects and makes it shiney and provides a water shedding protective bead coating!


  7. #6
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    ok now i get it,
    whats a good (but not too expencive ) polish

  8. #7
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    thats the million dollar question my friend!
    whatever suits your pocket i think!
    i just use whatever is on special at the time! lol!


  9. #8
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    I was the same mate, with so many products on the market its hard to know what to get? lol

    But for me my first port of call was to wash the car using a good quality shampoo, I also removed any tar deposits. My next step was to use Meguiars Quik Clay Kit, as many people will tell you this is a must if you have the time it makes all the difference as it removes dirt and contaminants gathered on your paint work. I then gave the car a good polish using Autoglym Super Resin Polish followed my a coat of Meguiars Gold Class Wax.

    Below is a few links to the products if you need them and a few snaps of my hard work after completing the above process (Excuse the mobile pictures):


    Meguiars Quik Clay Kit:
    Meguiars Quik Clay - Clean Your Car

    Meguiars Gold Class Wax
    Meguiars Gold Class Liquid Wax - Clean Your Car

    Autoglym Super Resin Polish
    Autoglym Super Resin Polish - Clean Your Car







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  10. #9
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    Cheers everyone

    Point Audi the car looks sweet :-) and chez I'll put some pictures up
    Later

    So I think I've got this right I'm going to do this when I've got a full day to spend on the car

    Give the car a good wash with autglym car shampoo using a mit removing the tar and two bucket method

    Then clay the car

    Then wax the car with autoglym wax

    Then polish it with autoglym resin polish

    Then treat the whole car with autoglym protector

    How does that sound ?

    My only concern is that I payed for the autoglym life shine when I brought the car does this mean that I shouldn't have to retreat and polish the car ?? I don't want to undo something that shouldn't be touched

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  11. #10
    Juicy Jen's Avatar
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    Life shine doesnt have an endless time scale and to be honest there are better products on the market that offer better results.

    The process is
    Pre-wash using snow foam (if you have a pressure washer and sf lance)
    Rinse
    Wash using the 2 bucket method, a decent shampoo and lambswool wash mitt
    Rinse
    Decontamination using clay, ironx, tar remover (depends on how far you want to take it)
    Wash using the 2 bucket method to remove residues from above
    Rinse
    Dry using a microfibre drying towel
    Polish
    Seal / wax

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  12. #11
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    Cheers juicy Jen

    I wasnt sure if life shine was a long term treatment or not thanks for clarifying

    That treatment sounds like a plan the only other question I've got is is the wax the final thing to do and does it protect the car or is it advisable to use the autoglym protection ontop of the wax?

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  13. #12
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    for a start get some decent products from Jen.

    polish by hand, use Prima Amiga or SRP.

    then wax on top, try purple haze on your colour it will look great!

    But critically, wash with a decent shampoo first, mitt and 2 buckets.

    re cleansing, iron x and clay the car.

  14. #13
    _G_
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    the autoglym system is designed to be topped up every 2 years to maintain it with an autoglym maintenance coat/procedure.
    this is the most annoying thing about it... because when it starts to wear off it comes off in drips and drabs i.e. patches where rain does not run off, rough patches of surface and even white residue like patches in some cases. In a way it is money making... because you could take the easy way out and cough up £££ for a years worth of paint protection... or you could spend the money/even save the money by getting some decent products and having a good car cleaning routine... paint protection systems are just a waste of money IMHO.

    to remove this you would first need to cut the entire car with some good compound like 3m fast cut... sometimes washing the car with hot water too can help to soften up the autoglym system... you may notice this... hot (not boiling) water is always a safe alternative to removing some waxes and polishes... but after this you do need to give the car a good wash too.

    to get the best finish i would first of all cut/compound the stuff off... then go about the clay/polish/wax of your choice. think about spending on some decent products and having the regular routine... Jen's routine is a good way to go!

  15. #14
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    what about stone chips, and the odd sckraaatch, coz i got a few stone chips on the bumper and bonnet, and some t0553r, has put a nice big scratch just above the rear arch, bless them, i realy did want that, yeh right!!
    is there anythiing out there that dose get rid of such things, not just say "WONDER SCRATCH REMOVER" and not actualy do sod all?

  16. #15
    _G_
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    With the stone chips... I recently purchased the Chipex kit... it seems pricey for what it is but it arrived the next day and its great:

    Car touch up paint - colour match guaranteed

    Just put in your paint code... can be found in your audi paperwork/or on the car itself... usually by the spare tyre there is a sticker... mine is LY9B (solid black)... so you need the paint code to order it. Except I found the polish they supplied a bit harsh so I used my own.

    Stone chip repair:
    What I did to clean out and do a proper repair:
    1. Swissvax mechanical paint repair (cleans out the chip) but if you don't have the budget for this then that is your choice
    2. Chipex
    3. Polish of choice, I used Dodo Juice Blue Velvet
    4. Finished off with Poor Boys Black Hole Show Glaze

    Job done! The chipex kit comes with instructions and can be used on scratches...

    With the Scratch... if you can run your nail over it and your nail catches then its deep and will need filling/paint. You can try do this with your chipex kit but be warned you need a steady hand and it only really looks good for repairs on scratches that are about 3" or less in length... otherwise it just shows where you have repaired it.

    If your nail does not catch it then you may be able to polish it out... by this you can try the above mentioned steps you would use bar the paint repair kit i.e. polish it, wax it and glaze it OR in some cases you can use a compound to cut the surface slightly.

    Does that help? Any questions give us a shout.. I'm sure folks have lots of other things they can recommend.

  17. #16
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    thanks that helps a lot, i think the scratch will need a trip to the bodyshop, is it a little deep. the chips are ok, but 1 or 2 are a little deep as well, so me thinks i better get saving up

  18. #17
    _G_
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    yeh could do a bodyshop jobby but a good service like chipsaway or something may be able to do it for a decent price... get some quotes and recommendations if you can unless you have a bodyshop in mind. may be some before and after pics on this thread of your repairs?

  19. #18
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    thanks once again, i never thought of chips away, or any mobile service,,,
    just go to show you a problen shaired and all that,,,, p s. sar this on the bay for £13. is it any good

    then theres tihs 1, what woud you lot go for

  20. #19
    _G_
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    1. The poor boy's is a Glaze and it is great to put on a car to fill minor swirls and minor scratches. Then you can wax on top of that to seal it in and add some more protection to the paint / depth to the colour. It can also be used to protect scratches for a while i.e. that deep scratch you mention. As part of your routine you can then apply the polish or glaze and then wax every 6 weeks or every 2 months... its entirely up to you... I tend to clay the car every 6 months as well... a pressure/machine wash usually strips off existing polish and wax.

    2. The Meg's kit there is more for paint correction. So if you had lot's of swirls, holograms etc. Sometimes you can get swirls from improper washing/drying technique or not knowing how to use a rotary buffer/Dual Action Polisher. In some cases it can also help with orange peel effect paint.

    This video sums up swirl/swirl removal well: Scratch Removal & Heavy Buffer Swirls Paint Correction - NWAS Auto Detailing Seattle - YouTube
    It gives you an idea of a common paint problem but even the guy in this video does not have 100% technique so it's not a follow me guide!

    I would only get the second kit if I was looking into removing those defects that just dont polish out or wax out. The wax can mask and fill a lot of these defects and protect the paint but if you really want to remove some defects then its time to cut the paint using some decent stuff. You need to have a good polishing technique and decent equipment so you don't add to the problem.

    It is always useful to look into a decent clay bar kit as well to prep the surface and remove decontaminants from it.

    JJ has some good products on her site:

    http://www.juicydetailing.co.uk/cont...d=16&TreeId=27

    I may switch supplier for some of my products and give it a try. My supplier is starting to let me down with products not being in stock and then delaying delivery of everything I need. Anyhow...
    Last edited by _G_; 19th April 2012 at 18:16.

  21. #20
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    I managed to get some light scratches out of the front bumper using my DAS6 + CG Hex Logic Orange pad and Megs #205. It took about 4 sets and a lot of effort. I had a go at some scratches on the back of the car which seemed light but won't budge. So looks like I will need the Megs #105 as well. The paint is rock hard!

 

 

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