Thread: Watermarks?

Hi Guys,
I haven't had my S3 for long (picked it up used, it's a 2008) and I've just noticed that at a certain angle the paintwork is absolutely covered in what appear to be watermarks.
I have tried to photograph them, you could just about make some of them out here, but they are all over the white paint.

I have tried a bunch of products including quik clay but nothing seems to be shifting them.
Any advice on getting rid of these would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,
Nick

Looks like tree sap marks to me, but if you have washed-clay'd-polished & waxed it should be gone.
The next thing really is to use a machine polisher/DA on it.
Then you would have to start over ie wash-clay-machine etc etc

That's what I'd be trying

Pat

I tried that after my post Pat. Used my ebay buffer but no joy
I think im going to need something a bit stronger!
Is there anything I can use that will strip all contaminants (but save my paint!)

Cheers,
Nick

could try claying the affected area with a more aggresive clay as im guessing you used megs quick clay? which is fairly mild
autosmart tardis (dont let this anywhere near your clay as it will break it down)
or some IPA diluted if this done work then afraid itll more than likely need polishing with a rotary and various compounds to shift it

it doesnt look like on the pic but you can get simular marks from a bad repair where filler was used and not primed correctly leaving was known as contour maps but like i said this doesnt look the case on yours
Dar

Originally Posted by drmole

could try claying the affected area with a more aggresive clay as im guessing you used megs quick clay? which is fairly mild
autosmart tardis (dont let this anywhere near your clay as it will break it down)
or some IPA diluted if this done work then afraid itll more than likely need polishing with a rotary and various compounds to shift it

it doesnt look like on the pic but you can get simular marks from a bad repair where filler was used and not primed correctly leaving was known as contour maps but like i said this doesnt look the case on yours
Dar

I'm also thinking the next step would be compounding & then working through the stages but if that doesn't work then I would wet'n'dry.
I hope you can sort this out with out visiting a bodyshop!

Where are you based?

Pat

Thanks guys, appreciate the responses.
Here is another image, perhaps a little clearer than the last as I have managed to land focus on the actual spots/marks.
Like I said, these are ALL over the paintwork, on the bonnet, the roof.. all panels basically. You can only see them at a certain angle but they are very noticeable when you do!


Yes Dar I did use the Megs quick clay, can you recco an alternative?

Ill order some Autosmart Tardis now.

Am I right in thinking I just spray this on, rub in, leave for a while and then wash off? and then proceed to clay, wax etc?

Pat can you explain compounding mate? I am also based just outside of Hell (Hull)

Thanks for your help guys

I'm down in Devon, would have liked to see this in person.
But never mind, ok on to compounding, I personally use poorboys products which start off like this :-

SSR3 (heavy)
SSR2.5 (medium)
SSR2 (I skip this one)
SSR1 (light)
EX-P (sealant)

I've never had any problems using these products & they have sorted out some real problems I've had.
I've only wet'n'dry twice to which the problems was bad!

Pat

Thanks Pat, So you think I should try the Tardis and then move on to your method?
What do you use to apply those with?

Cheers,
Nick

mate you dont really want to be using an ebay special buffer on any car never mind an S3 mate. if we had the car in we could take readings etc on the paint to see what can be worked with but id go

Menz PO106fa first to see what that would do and if it wouldnt shift then id go stronger on it such as 85RD 3.02 and that will get rid of it, you will be surprised at if you use the right product and correct technique then you will get the paint looking spit and span and better than showroom. if you havent used a rotary before then dont use it on the car as there is a good chance of burning through which will require paint. try and get a proffesional or atleast someone who is competent with a rotary mate.

yours is a similar problem i had on a black B7 A4, the owner found marks that he couldnt get rid of but i was able to remove.

Thanks twiggy, I dont use that buffer at all, I just tried it on a small area to see if that would shift the marks.

Where can I buy those products mate? and how should I apply them?
I did a search for Menz PO106fa but no joy

Cheers,
Nick

get them from here but these compounds need a rotary or a DA to be applied, can be applied by hand but to get the real benefit it needs heat which the machine produces.

Menzerna Polish | Menzerna Car Polish - Clean Your Car

Cheers
Are there any rotary/da's you would recommend?

Or would it be cheaper to take it to a bodyshop/detailer?

I've got a MEG's G220 DA which is all I need really.

As for taking it somewhere that's really up to you.
You could take it to a detailer & see what they say.....

Pat

Yeah I'm just thinking if I'm looking at £200 for a DA and then further products that Ill only use once to fix this problem...

Is that Autosmart Tardis safe to use on both paintwork and glass?

Originally Posted by Oreo5000

Yeah I'm just thinking if I'm looking at £200 for a DA and then further products that Ill only use once to fix this problem...

Is that Autosmart Tardis safe to use on both paintwork and glass?

I'm not 100% sure with the Tardis.

But as for buying all the detailing gear, I would & I have.
It's really up to you, I wash my car every weekend & detail as & when. Basically I love having a car, shiny car lol

Pat

Yeah, I'm the same to be honest Pat, just wondering what to do about this particular problem that's all.

What's your process (inc products) for wash, polish, wax etc?

Cheers

I just detailed the outside of my S3 a few weeks ago & this is what I done

1. Snow foam then pressure wash
2. Tardis lower half of car & rinse
3. Two bucket wash (lambs wool mit)
4. Clay hole car
5. Clean wheels
6. Two bucket wash & dry car
7. DA hole car from SSR3 to sealant
8. Autoglym HD wax 3 coats

I would have removed the wheels & cleaned, clay'd & waxed but as I've just put new on there was no point.

As you can see I have OCD when it comes to my car lol

Pat

Thanks Pat
How do you apply the snow foam?

Any recommendations for clay?

Just out of curiosity why do you use all 3 compounds, if you start with the hard one isnt that the best you can do?

Do you use any products to 'touch up' in between this big process?

Cheers

after looking at again tardis prob wouldnt work i suggested it as i thought like pat at first it may be tree sap
think ur gunna have to get a DA/rotary on it mate and some different poilihing compounds
we could do a satage 1 correction on it if you like?
drop us mail perfectreflectiondetailing@yahoo.co.uk

I've already ordered some mate, just 500ml, so i'll give it a go and if that doesnt do anything I'll pick up a DA.
What would you recommend as the cheapest DA/rotary?

theres loads of choice mate comes down to choice n budget i wouldnt get a rotary untill u get confident with a DA as you cause serious problems/damage with a rotary without the proper training, you can do the same with DA but its alot less aggressive just take ur time and listen to the machine if it sounds like its struggling ur prob applying to much presure so back off a bit and work the compound in but dont over work it hope tha makes sense lol
sorry about the tardis but hey it wont go waste in ur detailing arsnel lol

Originally Posted by drmole

theres loads of choice mate comes down to choice n budget i wouldnt get a rotary untill u get confident with a DA as you cause serious problems/damage with a rotary without the proper training, you can do the same with DA but its alot less aggressive just take ur time and listen to the machine if it sounds like its struggling ur prob applying to much presure so back off a bit and work the compound in but dont over work it hope tha makes sense lol
sorry about the tardis but hey it wont go waste in ur detailing arsnel lol

That's why I've stayed with the DA as the rotary is hardcore.
So as said if you're going to buy a machine buy a DA & leave the rotary polishing to the pro's!

Pat

cheers Pat
the DA is like origional golf GTi it cocks its rear wheel to let you know ur on the limit - so a warning
rotary is like a TVR little too much throttle and ur having supper with the grim reeper - no warning

Best DA for £50-£100?

Do you guys also use the DA for wax? or just hand apply and microfibre off?

strange thing DA's are more exspensive maybe because they are safer to use thus in demand more
this is a good one tho CleanYourCar DAS-6 Polishing Machine - Clean Your Car
also keep eye in the personal sales section on here and on detailing world one always pops up and u may have few extras with it ill check
DW for you and let u know
DAR

Originally Posted by drmole

cheers Pat
the DA is like origional golf GTi it cocks its rear wheel to let you know ur on the limit - so a warning
rotary is like a TVR little too much throttle and ur having supper with the grim reeper - no warning

I'm liking the way you put that!
Very true tho, that's way I've stayed well away!

Pat

Hope I'm not crossing any boundaries on Audi sport by putting this link but you can save yourself some extra pennies here

Kestrel DAS6 Dual Action Polisher | Dual Action Polishers | Polishing Machines | Juicy Detailing

The photos look alot like marring from previous claying so if you've clayed again on top it will not remove the affected area, therefore the only way to remove these marks are by machine polishing. The DA is a forgiving tool and if your into keeping your car clean then it's an ideal step to take. You can apply pre-wax cleanser, glazes, polishes, liquid waxes and sealants and in fact obtain a better overall finish as it lays down an even layer of the product that you can potentially achieve by hand.

Even as a pro there will always be a time and a place that I use my da over the rotary. It is quite likely that you should not need a polish that is too aggressive and I'd suggest doing the polishing in a well lit environment as white is a pita to work with.

Originally Posted by Juicy Jen

Hope I'm not crossing any boundaries on Audi sport by putting this link but you can save yourself some extra pennies here

Kestrel DAS6 Dual Action Polisher | Dual Action Polishers | Polishing Machines | Juicy Detailing

The photos look alot like marring from previous claying so if you've clayed again on top it will not remove the affected area, therefore the only way to remove these marks are by machine polishing. The DA is a forgiving tool and if your into keeping your car clean then it's an ideal step to take. You can apply pre-wax cleanser, glazes, polishes, liquid waxes and sealants and in fact obtain a better overall finish as it lays down an even layer of the product that you can potentially achieve by hand.

Even as a pro there will always be a time and a place that I use my da over the rotary. It is quite likely that you should not need a polish that is too aggressive and I'd suggest doing the polishing in a well lit environment as white is a pita to work with.

didn't know you were on here too jen welcome if i haven't already said it i say welcome to so many people can't keep track lol

Yeah I'm here! Just been that busy lately I've slacked a little with some forums

Originally Posted by Juicy Jen

Hope I'm not crossing any boundaries on Audi sport by putting this link but you can save yourself some extra pennies here

Kestrel DAS6 Dual Action Polisher | Dual Action Polishers | Polishing Machines | Juicy Detailing

The photos look alot like marring from previous claying so if you've clayed again on top it will not remove the affected area, therefore the only way to remove these marks are by machine polishing. The DA is a forgiving tool and if your into keeping your car clean then it's an ideal step to take. You can apply pre-wax cleanser, glazes, polishes, liquid waxes and sealants and in fact obtain a better overall finish as it lays down an even layer of the product that you can potentially achieve by hand.

Even as a pro there will always be a time and a place that I use my da over the rotary. It is quite likely that you should not need a polish that is too aggressive and I'd suggest doing the polishing in a well lit environment as white is a pita to work with.

great advice Jen but the link doesnt work my end tryed few times now

Thanks Jen,
I'll get that DA ordered!
What product would you recommend to tackle this if it is what you think?
Cheers,
Nick

Will the Juicy Detailing Machine Polisher Kit 2 going to be everything I need Jen or should I order the DA on it's own and then some specific pads and products?
Any advice much appreciated!
Cheers,
Nick

Originally Posted by Oreo5000

Will the Juicy Detailing Machine Polisher Kit 2 going to be everything I need Jen or should I order the DA on it's own and then some specific pads and products?
Any advice much appreciated!
Cheers,
Nick

hey Nick
id say yes kit 2 would suit ur needs but drop Jen a mail to confirm before ordering
Dar

Thanks Dar,
This might be a stupid question, but can you use the DA on your glass? My windscreen suffers from swirl marks a plenty!

I bought kit 3 from juicy back in September. Service was awesome, within 2 days I had a massive box turn up on the doorstep. Cant just stop at the polishing kit though, I also bought bucket and grit guard, clay and lube, shampoo, wax, ipa, and some super shiny oil dressin, and left the computer nearly £300 lighter. Now I've got another list ready to order. It's definitely addictive but worth every penny.

Originally Posted by drmole

great advice Jen but the link doesnt work my end tryed few times now

Works my end bud....

Originally Posted by Oreo5000

Thanks Jen,
I'll get that DA ordered!
What product would you recommend to tackle this if it is what you think?
Cheers,
Nick

thanks for the emails Nick we'll get you sorted

Originally Posted by Juicy Jen

Works my end bud....

yeah i reloaded the page and it worked then Hun

Nick
you can polish Glass but u need a certain compound ill try find the link n get bk to you mate

Just had a huge email conversation with Jen. best pre-sales service I've ever had. I've hit the bank account hard and ordered a whole bunch of products, I'll report back when I put them to use!

hi guys you say the da sort of lets you know when you are nearing the limit what exactly do you mean, i know its easier on the paint?sorry if i am bein a numb nut

I'd say a good compound and that should come out. As people above had said I won't repeat, only thing I'd add is that a rotary machine isn't "that" hard to use, as long as you watch what your doing and mind the heat of the panel you will be fine, always start with the least aggressive combination so you remove the least amount of paint as possible. And if you can get a hold of a practice panel try that to get the feel for it before attempting on your car. I personally just went straight for the rotary had no experience and have been fine, read/ watch plenty of videos/info to know somewhat what todo and I've have had amazing results from it so far.

Originally Posted by ivor1

hi guys you say the da sort of lets you know when you are nearing the limit what exactly do you mean, i know its easier on the paint?sorry if i am bein a numb nut

its lil hard to explain but basicaly the machine works by working in the compuond using heat as a DA ossolates it doesnt generate too much heat like a rotary that doesnt ossolate you need heat to break the compuond down but its fragile balence too much heat can break the compuond down too fast then the heat starts to break down the paint/laquer and you end up with burn marks or in worse cases may even burn rite thro the paint into primer resulting in a trip to the bodyshop either way. they key is take your time listen to the machine and feel the resistance while working along the section of the pannel go slow get used to the machine weather it be a DA/rotary but also a paint depth gauge will also reduce the risk of burn thro as u know how much u have to work with.

thanks for the further explanation!

Thanks for your help guys, and a big thanks to Jen!
I have now completely cured this problem, take a look here:
Paint looks brand new again - Thanks Juicy Jen! (and Dodo Juice!)