I'd say a good compound and that should come out. As people above had said I won't repeat, only thing I'd add is that a rotary machine isn't "that" hard to use, as long as you watch what your doing and mind the heat of the panel you will be fine, always start with the least aggressive combination so you remove the least amount of paint as possible. And if you can get a hold of a practice panel try that to get the feel for it before attempting on your car. I personally just went straight for the rotary had no experience and have been fine, read/ watch plenty of videos/info to know somewhat what todo and I've have had amazing results from it so far.
its lil hard to explain but basicaly the machine works by working in the compuond using heat as a DA ossolates it doesnt generate too much heat like a rotary that doesnt ossolate you need heat to break the compuond down but its fragile balence too much heat can break the compuond down too fast then the heat starts to break down the paint/laquer and you end up with burn marks or in worse cases may even burn rite thro the paint into primer resulting in a trip to the bodyshop either way. they key is take your time listen to the machine and feel the resistance while working along the section of the pannel go slow get used to the machine weather it be a DA/rotary but also a paint depth gauge will also reduce the risk of burn thro as u know how much u have to work with.
Originally Posted by ivor1
My A4 Detailed and finished with Zymol Glasur
A4 S-Line SE 220BHp with full Black pack With black badge (rear one still to fit) two tone Leather, Bose, phone prep in centre arm rest, IPOD conection RS4 pedals suede gear knob handbrake and steering wheel R8 oil Cap
thanks for the further explanation!
Thanks for your help guys, and a big thanks to Jen!
I have now completely cured this problem, take a look here:
Paint looks brand new again - Thanks Juicy Jen! (and Dodo Juice!)