Hi, I'm new to this forum and would like some advice from you guys in the know about audis. I have an audi 90 quattro which has decided to shatter its n/s rear bearing, any idea how to DIY as I know its expensive to have it done at a garage...
Audi 90 quattro wheel bearings..
- Thread starter patb
- Start date
Rev-head
Registered User
Could not be **** typing out so copied from other web site( off Quattro)
If i were you see if you can get garage to do the job of put the bearing in as you will need a press get in level and when taking out bearing collar use a flat door pin punch
Happy Reading /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/book.gif
From: James Dupree Subject: Re: How to replace Front Wheel Bearings?
I never did a late 100 but did many 5k. Remove wheel, Brake caliper, Rotor and dust shield. You can leave the brake line attached to the caliper but you HAVE to hang the caliper with wire (coat hanger works) so there is NO tension on the brake line or hose. Remove large nut (or bolt) from outer CV joint where it goes thru the hub Remove pinch bolt for ball joint (This next part was the tricky part for me, a helper is a really good idea) Using 6 foot long pipe to pull down on control arm and disconnect ball joint from bottom of strut. Pipe goes in front of the strut base, over the sway bar/track bar, and under the sub frame. Pull down on the end of the pipe to pry the control arm down. I floor jack handle works but is a little short for my taste. While still holding down on the control arm with the pipe pull the strut base out away from the control arm. Careful of the ball joint boot, they tear easily. (the boots are available separately) Hopefully the CV joint will pull out of the hub, you may need to drive it out or push it out with puller. Once you have pulled the base of the strut out far enough you can let the control arm up slowly until the tension is released. I then take a 6 inch long 4x4 and slide it up between the strut and the inner fender to hold the strut out away from the control arm. Now you have access to the hub and wheel bearing to make use of your tool. Pull the hub out (The tool I had could be used to pull the hub out of the bearing.) Inner bearing race usually stays on the hub and will have to be pressed/driven/pulled off the hub. Early struts had a circlip on each side of the bearing and you could remove both of them and press the bearing out which ever way was easier to you. Latter struts have only and inner circlip and the bearing has to be pressed out toward the inside and back in from the inside. Remove the circlip or clips on the inside and or out side of the wheel bearing. Press the bearing out (use your tool according to it's instructions) and press the new bearing in. If this is an early strut with both clip be sure to install a clip to press the bearing up to as a stop. Reinstall the last circlip Press the hub back into the bearing (make sure the clips are in place before you press in the hub!!!!) Reassemble the suspension.
If i were you see if you can get garage to do the job of put the bearing in as you will need a press get in level and when taking out bearing collar use a flat door pin punch
Happy Reading /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/book.gif
From: James Dupree Subject: Re: How to replace Front Wheel Bearings?
I never did a late 100 but did many 5k. Remove wheel, Brake caliper, Rotor and dust shield. You can leave the brake line attached to the caliper but you HAVE to hang the caliper with wire (coat hanger works) so there is NO tension on the brake line or hose. Remove large nut (or bolt) from outer CV joint where it goes thru the hub Remove pinch bolt for ball joint (This next part was the tricky part for me, a helper is a really good idea) Using 6 foot long pipe to pull down on control arm and disconnect ball joint from bottom of strut. Pipe goes in front of the strut base, over the sway bar/track bar, and under the sub frame. Pull down on the end of the pipe to pry the control arm down. I floor jack handle works but is a little short for my taste. While still holding down on the control arm with the pipe pull the strut base out away from the control arm. Careful of the ball joint boot, they tear easily. (the boots are available separately) Hopefully the CV joint will pull out of the hub, you may need to drive it out or push it out with puller. Once you have pulled the base of the strut out far enough you can let the control arm up slowly until the tension is released. I then take a 6 inch long 4x4 and slide it up between the strut and the inner fender to hold the strut out away from the control arm. Now you have access to the hub and wheel bearing to make use of your tool. Pull the hub out (The tool I had could be used to pull the hub out of the bearing.) Inner bearing race usually stays on the hub and will have to be pressed/driven/pulled off the hub. Early struts had a circlip on each side of the bearing and you could remove both of them and press the bearing out which ever way was easier to you. Latter struts have only and inner circlip and the bearing has to be pressed out toward the inside and back in from the inside. Remove the circlip or clips on the inside and or out side of the wheel bearing. Press the bearing out (use your tool according to it's instructions) and press the new bearing in. If this is an early strut with both clip be sure to install a clip to press the bearing up to as a stop. Reinstall the last circlip Press the hub back into the bearing (make sure the clips are in place before you press in the hub!!!!) Reassemble the suspension.
Thank you rev-head, I'm gonna have a crack at it tomorrow when I can get the necassary bits etc. Good forum this !!!