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  1. #1
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    Upgrading from Bose in 8L S3

    Sorry to redo something to death: This post is a bit of a beast - sorry.

    I didn't look on here before buying my 20th Dec 2000 8L S3, and went for Bose as I assumed it would sound sweet - and it is in fact quite poor.

    I am not looking to spend serious cash, but I am looking to slowly replace various elements to improve sound quality, etc. Basically, I was wondering whether the following plan of action works - or whether I need to take anything else into account:

    1. Stopping bose equaliser
    I snipped the greenish wire labelled G on rear of HU. I assume this is the gala wire (there was no bose labelled wire), and that I'm not hearing things if I say the treble has increased?

    2. Replace HU with aftermarket
    I don't want Ipod or cd changer - but I would like MP3 readability and bluetooth phone. I'm considering the Blaupunkt Hamburg MP68 - display changes nicely to red. In order to fit such a unit I believe I will need:
    http://www.nexxia.co.uk/Car_Stereo_f...ts/Audi/A3.htm
    My facelift car is registered as 20/12/00 - therefore I in in a quandary on which fascia adaptors I need? Aftermarket HU has 3 x pre-outs, so I guess cheaper wire adaptor is an option?

    3. Replace Front speakers
    Front passenger speaker suffers from intermittant buzzing at all frequencies. I intend to replace both front speakers first off, both to lose this fault and improve sound quality, before seeing what else could be the problem.
    I understand I will need speaker adaptors - which I understand will allow me up to 5.25" speakers.
    Can I buy tweeterless speakers and plug them into the crossover - therefore using the existing tweeters?
    Are there any aftermarket component speakers where the tweeter can be positioned inside the existing door card tweeter housing?

    4. Replace sub
    I have an Alpine 1600 active sub - but I'm told it will be too small for an S3 -- is it worth me testing it out -
    Otherwise, I would prefer amp to be hidden as per existing Bose amp, so an Andymac stealth effort seems like the best option -- Andymac, what is your fully fitted quote on that again?



    Thanks for any help.

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  3. #2
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    1. If your system is Bose factoy fit it should have the Bose pin identified on the diagram on the HU, however I guess the HU could have been swapped out due to volume issue which plagues all Concert units. The Bose pin is shown below, but you should hear quite a dramatic difference in both bass and treble when snipping the wire.

    2. & 3. If going aftermarket with the HU then replace all speakers and bypass the Bose amp. No one I know of has had a good experience trying to get better sound from the A3/S3 Bose system by just upgrading the HU, and the process is plagued with problems like interference & popping.
    When replacing the front components you must replace the tweeters as they are shockingly bad. They aren't even Bose. They are the same shyte Nokia/Isophon crap used on the non-Bose system. Most 2 way components come with 1" tweeters that simply pop into the stock locations, if smaller then just wrap them in doublesided foam tape.
    The issue with the fronts is the main driver depth which can only be about 55mm, so ensure they are slim units. Most companies do these like Rainbow 230slx's or the cheaper Hertz Dieci DSK 130's, which should fit nicely even with the thicker MDF adapters (recommended). The flimsy plastic Autoleads adapters are only good to use as a template for MDF ones and are to be avoided.
    4. Replacing the sub is a must, and yes the feeble Alpine unit won't give you much unless you have it strapped to your arse.
    If you do nothing else then the stealth sub is the best single upgrade as it not only provides tight punchy bass, but also relieves the cabin speakers from trying to produce anything approaching mid bass.
    The stealth sub includes Alpine T505 300wrms amp hidden behind the rear speaker panel, 18mm MDF enclosure replacing the tupperware unit, JL Audio 6.5" sub and 40amp power cable & RCA, fully fitted (4 hours) = 340.
    You can also sell the Bose sub on ebay for around 70.
    I'd go with this wraparound fascia adapter rather than the 2 part units which never fit properly.
    http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/faci...or-p-4444.html
    "How to tear apart the ties that bind, perhaps fcuk off might be too kind"
    Alex Turner

  4. #3
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    Cheers for that Andymac

    Considering the variety of wiring adaptors - which one do I use as a starting point if I'm bypassing the bose system? I guess there will then be some rearranging of wires - or at least adding new speaker wires.

  5. #4
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    Thats the point, you don't need any wiring adapters, just a standard ISO speaker loom (2.99 from Halfrauds or Maplins) in order to plug into the new HU and 10m or speaker wire to run back to the Bose amp to pick up the fronts & rears. The Blaupunkt unit uses the same bizarre pre-out plug as the stock Audi HU, so if you do upgrade the sub you'll need the Blaupunkt 6ch RCA adapter to give you standard RCA's for the amp. The 4ch version only gives you front & rears, the 6ch gives you a sub out.
    http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/blau...le-p-5469.html
    "How to tear apart the ties that bind, perhaps fcuk off might be too kind"
    Alex Turner

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    I'm doing some planning for the sub install.

    Going down a different route at the moment than the usual as I want to get some more punch. Looking at a custom fibreglass box fittin the lh rear corner, using the current sub/stacker location. Will extend out to be in line with the rear hatch opening, so only minor boot space loss.

    Will be flush mounting the amp on this.

    My calcluations indicate that I should have enough room to run a decent 10' sub whilst maintaining a factory look.

  7. #6
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    I'm interested in fitting a 2 channel, or mono amp to power a sub in the boot.
    I want to remove the Bose sub, as it keeps distorting under certain music, and put an amp in its place to power a new sub I'll place in the boot.

    Does anyone know where can I take the feed from for the amplifier to power the sub?
    Work commute:
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    Backdraft Big Turbo Silver S3, Supersprint, Eibach lowered, QST rear tiebars, SPA boost gauge Sold
    Lotus Elise 111R also Sold

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  8. #7
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    You'll need to run a power cable, but everything else can be taken off the Bose sub plug:
    "How to tear apart the ties that bind, perhaps fcuk off might be too kind"
    Alex Turner

  9. #8
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    Thanks a lot Andy.

    Is this the plug that goes straight into the current Bose Sub?
    Work commute:
    Honda CBR 1000RR
    169 kg & 170 bhp - eeek!

    Backdraft Big Turbo Silver S3, Supersprint, Eibach lowered, QST rear tiebars, SPA boost gauge Sold
    Lotus Elise 111R also Sold

    Wanted: Honda powered Lotus Elise S2

  10. #9
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    Yes the black one with a pink clip.
    "How to tear apart the ties that bind, perhaps fcuk off might be too kind"
    Alex Turner

  11. #10
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    Sorry for digging this one up again....
    2 things: I have an S4 with bose and i think it has had a replacement stereo. It needs another new one as the display is on the way out but anyway....
    I've tried cutting the "bose wire" to improve the sound as indicated in post 2 on this thread, but i didn't notice any difference. Could it be different in my car?.... here is the diagram on the top of my stereo:



    Is there anoter wire I should cut. It still says "BOSE" when I turn the stero on, should this sto if I cut the correct wire?.

    Second thing.... I have a Bluetooth car kit that was installed by the previous owner that works fine but the mute wire is not connected. I think it it earth switched from the kit but on the stereo there is 2 mute connectors! Which should I use?
    Thanks in advance!
    Last edited by confusionhunter; 7th March 2009 at 18:01.
    Cheers.
    Mark.

    2.7T S4, A3 Tdi 110, Polo G40...

  12. #11
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    The Bose on the display of the HU means nothing, it can be turnd on or off using VAGCOM regardless of whether you have Bose fitted or not.
    The Bose EQ wire is the GA (GALA - speed sensitive volume on non Bose equipped vehicles) wire on the diagram above.
    If you didn't notice any difference then I'd suspect you don't have a Bose sysem but the replacement HU was from a Bose equipped car which is why the VAGCOM setting is there.
    Easiest way to tell, as you have the HU out, is to see if you have a brown front speaker ISO connector on the Audi HU wiring loom. If you do then it is not a Bose system as Bose are fuly amplified and don't run any speakers directly from the HU.
    "How to tear apart the ties that bind, perhaps fcuk off might be too kind"
    Alex Turner

  13. #12
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    OK doke, Ive snipped the right one then.... I do have a brown Connector but only 2 pins are connected. There are two thin blue and two thin brown cables that seem to be connected to the "LF" pins, but thats it. I disconnected the brown plug altogether and the stereo still sounds ok, plus its got bose written on all the speaker covers... so im guessing it is the bose... This time however I did notice a better bass and treble responce. Before I had the terble cranked right up in attempt to hear the front tweeters but found myself having to turn it down to plus one, so either It didnt work straight away ir i had cotton wool in my ears!!!

    ANy idea on the mute? just try either?
    Cheers.
    Mark.

    2.7T S4, A3 Tdi 110, Polo G40...

  14. #13
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    You do have to turn the HU off once you've snipped the wire for the change in EQ to take effect. But it should make quite a difference - it's not a subtle difference.
    The mute is usually always on the big red plug, so I'd start there.
    "How to tear apart the ties that bind, perhaps fcuk off might be too kind"
    Alex Turner

 

 

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