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  1. #1
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    Just purchased '98 A3 and need advise on stereo direction *newbie*

    hi all, firstly wanted to say hi, I'm amazed at how much information exists in these forums. There's certainly a lot of Audi enthusiasts out there.

    Just purchased a black A3 '98 model 1.8 turbo. Even though I haven't physically picked it up yet I'm already thinking of what to do with the stereo and any bit of advice is greatly appreciated.

    I have an Alpine head unit, about 2 years old, plays MP3s. I have two 4 channel Alpine V8 amps, previously I had one running the fronts bridged (4 into 2) and the other was running the rears on 2 channels and the sub on the other two channels bridged. Also have an Alpine Passive EQ with time correction, etc. I have a pair of Boston splits, a pair of Infinity Kappa 3ways and a pair of oval 6x9s, not sure of the brand. Ohh and a JBL 12" sub in a box. Happy to spend my next 3-4 weekends running power cables to the boot etc. but I would like some direction from you lot that have gone down this track before and have overcome some hurdles along the way. I dont want to spend any more money on the stereo unless I absolutelly have to. This kit has rocked before in other cars, probably would be overkill in a little A3.

    Can't wait to get it, I should be picking it up tomorrow!

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  3. #2
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    Welcome to the forum.
    Run power to the boot or as far as the rear speaker panels. You can install one amp either side behind the rear panels if you want a tidy install.
    There's a spare grommet to take power through the bulkhead, passenger side, high up underneath the splash guard for the wipers in front of the pollen filter, very close to the front wing. You need to pierce it with a sharp coathanger or right angled drill (as space is limited). This drops down into the passenger footwell, behind the glovebox. I'd remove the glovebox as it makes life a lot easier running power and also installing the HU.
    Most of the trim is held on with metal spring clips and the odd screw here & there. When removing the rear speaker panels ensure you open the rear windows and pull up the rubbers running along the top of the panels. The panels are secured with about 6 metal spring clips, remove the door sill trim first then work your way up the door pillar. If they've never been removed before then they will be quite stubborn to free up. Also remove the rear seat bases to give you more room (flip them up and simply push the 2 securing arms together and then lift out).
    The front speakers are only 4" with a 1" tweeter. You will need to make or buy adapter rings to fit anything aftermarket. You can squeeze 5.25" components in the front as long as they are slim units approx 50mm depth and ensure you replace the tweeters. If you use the original wiring then don't use the tweeter wiring as it has a hi pass capacitor buried in the wiring.
    The rears are 6.5" coaxials and there's loads of room. Bear in mind all speakers are screwed to the flimsy door panels so you won't get the best out of any speaker in these locations, so the sub has to do alot of the work.
    For the HU you'll need a fascia adapter to fill out the gaps left by the oversized Audi HU, an active aerial amp (as the Audi HU has one inside it). The power ISO will plug straight in but the perm live & ignition on live are wired in reverse so you'll need to swap them over.
    You'll need to rewire the rear speakers as they run off a puny 2x20w amp inside the tupperware sub in the left cubbyhole in the boot.
    There's nothing overly complicated in the A3 just a few quirky things to keep you on your toes. There is masses of info on this forum as you've already found, so good luck.

  4. #3
    Reverse Gear

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    thanks AndyMac, I'll have a go and post my findings in here
    Cheers mate

 

 

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