what speakers sizes will fit in an '98 A3 1.8T Sport...?
I'm wanting to upgrade all the speakers in my '98 A3.
The front ones had already been upgraded by a previous owner, but they have done it unsucessfully! Result is they have killed the front Infinity speakers as the cones couldnt move enough so have fouled the door trim (hence the cones are fecked now!). I actually have another pair of these Infinitys i have fitted to my old Volvo 850 estate. i think maybee 5.25"? I forget the model number now, but anyways, i digress...
What im wanting to do is, install the largest speakers possible with the minimum of fuss (contradiction in terms possibly, lol).
I do really like very good quality sounds, but dont wanna strecth the bank balance to far to attain this (another contradiction, lol).
I believe my car has an Audi amp somewhere in it (as the rear speakers are much much louder than the fronts (even though the fronts sound garbage!)
My car has an Audi sub fitted (none Bose i believe). This is also rubbish!
I would ideally like to keep the enclosure, but upgrade the components (i think AndyMac wou could be the man here from what i have read somewhere on here).
Incidentally, i have already had an after market Pioneer DEH-5800P fitted (plays MP3 & WMA).
Yes you do have a amp this powers the rear and sub, the largest you can fit are 5.25 / 13 cm, if you want door builds or want to cut your door up the worlds your oyster.
personally id get a speaker that has a higher sensivity, with in 4 times your head units out put so if your head unit is 4 x 50w then you want a speaker that is 200w peak.
It depends on your music to the speaker and your budget, id try mtx, focal or jl all very good speakers, mtx comps start of at 100, focal 130 and jl at 230.
The problem with the front speakers is the available depth, the feeble door card they are mounted to, the position and the limited space available. Apart from that......
There is little point fitting expensive speakers to the front doors of an A3/S3 unless you are going with custom door builds. The benefit is far outweighed by the restrictions listed above. The Infinity kappa 50.5's are doubly difficult to fit as the cone extends quite a way past the cage, so you need deep MDF adapters to give you enough clearance.
Upgrade them by all means but don't go mad, your money is by far better spent on a decent sub or stealth sub which will relieve the front components from trying (and failing) to produce any mid bass. All you'll get is a very expensive cone flapping about in the breeze.
The problem with the standard "sub" apart from the feeble amp and cheap Harry Moss door speaker they've fitted, is largely the tupperware enclosure. So fitting anything else in it just doesn't work. Believe me I've tried.
That's why I developed my stealth sub, which is a custom made 18mm MDF enclosure which fits in the standard location and houses a JL Audio 6.5" proper sub. This then needs to be powered by a 250-300w amp mounted behind the rear speaker panel. Normally this needs to be a four channel amp with 2 channels for the rear speakers, but as you've already got a very capable HU then the rears can be powered by that, so you only need a mono or 2ch amp bridged for the sub.
I can supply just the enclosure, or enclosure, sub, amp wiring, installation etc, but the transformation is very impressive even with the standard HU/speaker setup. You get proper punchy bass and a much cleaner sound from the cabin speakers, which you can then drive much harder without distortion.
Many thanx for the replies:thumbs-up:
Would these be suitable for the front doors?
The depth might be a bit tight, they're misleading as you need at least 10mm clearance at the front as the cone surround protrudes beyond the front of the cage, in addition to the 58mm actual depth of the speaker. You've only got about 60mm available depth on the A3.
AndyMac, what speakers would you reccomend to use for the front doors & what to use for the rears then please?
Many thanks, Pete.
For the fronts it's really what you can fit properly, I fitted these Rainbows in my B5 A4 (which is a worse mounting challenge than the A3), and they're very good, particularly like the smoothness of the silk dome tweeters.
The Infinity's are a pain, and the crossovers are particularly bulky. The only easy fit option is custom fit Pioneers, specifically for the A3, which they don't do anymore.
The rears can take any speaker as there's loads of room behind the rear panels, but again you are limited in the amount of performance you'll get from them as they are mounted to the rear panel, not the bodywork, which is flimsy, and the position of them is also pretty poor. I fitted Alpine 6.5" coax units but didn't really notice much difference from the driving seat, but by then I already had the stealth sub so all the bass was handled by that, with the main sound coming from the fronts.
jl fit and so do mtx they fit nice if you take the rubber of the back of the magnet it is only there for looks not sound.
the mtx are great for the money and they do give alot more bass than infinity which is more of a vocal speaker and alpine's just dont seam to give the sound they should for the speck or the price.
May thanx all who have offered up their suggestions on this post.
But... im still confussed!
What have people allready managed to successfully fit to an Audi A3 please?
Brand & model numbers & price if possible please peeps
Many thanx, Pete.
What if i just got these?
Will these fit the front location?
Will these fit the rear location?
I realize for the rear these are 16cm & not 13cm. Will they still fit in the rear with a little modification & if so does anyone know what would be involved?
Say the word AndyMac & will order them right away!
Last edited by Pete69zx; 1st August 2006 at 20:48.
The OEM rears are 16cm anyway so not a problem.
The rears just need an 12mm or 18mm ring of MDF in order to fit the bizarre Audi mounting posts on the rear panels. Use the OEM speaker to mark the 3 hole positions then drill these out so that the ring sits over the mounting posts and forms a seal round the speaker hole in the panel. Use the original screws to attach them and thenmount the new speakers to the MDF. Easy. Do not buy the Autoleads adapter rings as these leave a 5mm gap all the way round the speaker hole - nice job allowing the woofer to flap about in free air.
It's the fronts that are tricky. The OEM speakers are 4" units so you need 9mm MDF rings with a 4" cut out to fit over the 3 mounting posts, using the original screws to secure it. You then need a second ring of 6mm or 9mm MDF with a 13cm cutout glued and screwed to the smaller ring in order to mount the larger new speaker without it fouling on the first ring. This is with an available depth of about 60mm, with 10mm already taken up by the MDF. Coupled to this problem is the tight space you have to work with. My issue with the Infinity's is that they protrude beyond the mounting flange adding more vital mm's to the overall depth. They probably would fit but it'll be tight. You could use OTS plastic adapter rings and silicone them so that they seal properly, this would use up less depth, but not sure how they'd cope with the protuding cone.