AVIC D3 into A4 Avant

[bored_welsh_lad]

Hi,

I have bought an Avic D3 stereo to fit into my 52 plate Audi A4 Avant Sport. I have bought PC9-404 wiring adaptor as well as PC5-52 amped antenna.

I spent ages trying to find out which cables I needed and I thought I had the right cables, which would allow straight fitment. I have connected up the two ISO connectors and the extra red connector cable which drives the rear speakers but at the moment nothing powers up.

When I look at the original Concert Stereo there are 2 pins that don't connect into the new loom, they are...

I understand that on the red connector I need to power the blue aux wire to a switched live which will then turn the amp on to drive the rears, but at present I don't get anything at all from the stereo. So heres where I am at...

ISO 1: Power (from the Car Wiring) Black connector

Brown Wire- Labelled as Earth goes to Black Stereo wire
Red/Blue Wire- Labelled as UB+ goes to Red Stereo wire
Grn/Blue Wire- Labelled as K-Bus doesn't connect to anything
Brown/Grey Wire- Labelled as DWA GND doesn't connect to anything

ISO 2: Speakers...Brown connector

I didn't take too much notice of on the concert stereo as they shouldn't have anything that stops the stereo coming on

Audis Stupid Connector

Green Wire - Labelled as LR. Goes to RH Coax Lead
White Wire - Labelled as RR. Goes to LH Coax Lead
Brown Wire - Labelled as Com (Common Earth?) will go to neg side of Coax I assume
White Wire- Labelled as Switchable + Symbol will be the blue white lead to the Aux on the stereo
Orange Black Wire- Labelled as Can L doesn't connect to anything
Orange Purple Wire- Labelled as Can H doesn't connect to anything

So... Any ideas...

Do I need the Can L and Can H wires and what about DWA GND and K BUS... Any help would be brilliant as I aint going to rip the dash apart until I can get this working. Oh, and its not the fuses.

 

[AndyMac]

There is no ignition on feed on your A4 so all you need on the black ISO is permanent live (UB+) and earth. Your new HU needs 3 feeds, perm live earth and an ignition on live. So you either connect the perm live and ignition on lives (yellow & red) together so that they both run off the permanent live on the Audi power ISO (black) and turn the HU on/off manually, or you need to wire in an ignition on feed and use this to connect to the red feed on the HU.
The CAN wires on the Audi connector are the CANBUS data feeds, these are used to tell the HU when the ignition is on/off and provide the feed for the DIS. You can't use these unless you invest in a CANBUS emulator which at £60 will only give you an ignition on feed.
LR (left rear) should go to the white RCA, and RR (right rear) should go to the red RCA, COM as you say is the screen on the RCA's.
You will find you need to fade to rear a lot to balance the sound as you have 2 x 50w going to the fronts and only 2 x 20w from the rear/sub amp.

 

[bored_welsh_lad]

Andy,

Thanks for all your help so far, after I got off here I looked at it again and I did as you said and hardwired the perm live with the ignition live and it came to life. So now I have made some progress I have even more stupid questions..

1. Where can I pick up an ignition live from?
2. Do you know what colour wire the VSS wire is at the fusebox?
3. Instead of those stupid RCA leads, is it worth hard wiring some decent speakers to the rear?
4. Finally the Illum wire goes nowhere at the moment, best point to take this from?

I seem to have made decent enough progress, the stereo is mounted in a decent position, the buttons above and the coin holder drawer open and work without catching on the radio trim, the bluetooth adapter is attached and seems to be connecting, ipod cable is run in well enough.. At the moment I am d/c the perm feed as I don't think the stereo is fully shutting down, I don't want to risk the car not starting.

Thanks for your help so far...

 

[AndyMac]

If you want a proper accessory feed then you need to follow these instructions:
If you want a proper ignition on feed i.e. the HU stays on until you pull the keys out, then you need to wire in a relay. The trigger to use for the relay is under the steering column. Remove the trim under the steering wheel and you will see the main loom from the ignition switch running under the left side of the steering column. You'll see some black trunking protecting the loom. Release this trunking so you can get to the wires. You'll see a very thin red wire in amongst all the other thicker wires. This is the one you want.
With the ignition off and the keys out, chop this wire and reconnect it with a small terminal block along with another wire that you can then run to the relay. Unfortunately the wire is so thin that you can't get a reliable feed using a piggyback connector.
This is a very low current feed so you can't power the HU directly from it. Just wire in a 12v relay using piggyback connections from the perm live & earth at the HU and use this new wire to switch the relay on/off, then use the other side of the relay to power the HU. Sounds more complicated than it actually is, took me 30-45 minutes to do mine, but well worthwhile otherwise you need to have the keys turned to ignition on to get the HU to work when parked up.

Alternatively just piggyback on any of the fuses that turn on/off with the ignition, but this will kill the HU as soon as you kill the engine.
No idea on the speed sensor
Yes it would be better to rewire the rears bu then you will lose the sub
Illumination is handled by the CANBUS