Audi A3 8P Stereo help

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funkyr

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Hi all,

I've been out of car audio for a while (6-7 years) and am looking to replace the stock system on my wife's 2005 8P 5Dr A3 with something not too over the top. I used to have a top of the range Eclipse HU, Eclipse amps, Focal speakers, Nakamichi sub & sound deadening in my old car - dont want to go anywhere near there for this car!


Must have for the HU:
1) single DIN
2) mp3 playability
3) ipod control from the head unit
4) front USB.

Dont want:
1) Sub
2) To amp the front or rear speakers (hmmm tempting though)


Hard to nominate the total budget as I'm new to the UK. Maybe around £2-300? Let me know if this budget is way too low!


Would appreciate any advice on:

Head unit change - do you need a fascia and any special wiring? (I have a single DIN Audi concert)
Front and Rear speakers - sizes of stock system and any recommendations for middle range speakers.


Thanks!
 
Last edited:
I've just bought and fitted (with help from AndyMac and Slappy) a JVC KD-R821BT. features:

Single Din
MP3/WMA Playability
iPod/iPhone mode, via front USB (also charges)
Additional USB at rear, Front Aux.

Also has the added benefit it of Bluetooth Calls and Audio streaming via A2DP, if your iPod/iPhone is Bluetooth compatible

Although not OEM looking, the unit isn't as ghastly as some Sony HU, and you can customize the colour of button lights and the display in order to match the interior of the car, so doesn't look out of place.

It has internal amp, so you don't need a separate one.

You will need, depending on what's already in your car:
-fascia adaptor
-amplified aerial adaptor (pc5-90)
-a cable to connect to rear speakers (pc9-404) or you can just plug directly into them from HU (will be doing this in the future when I get time).

Total cost for all this -£140.

Even though the Audi concert is single din, it's slightly wider than normal. Have not a clue about replacing speakers though!
 
The fronts are 4" components with 1" tweeters
The rears are 6.5" coaxials
The fronts can be replaced with 5.25" components but depth is limited to approx 55-60mm
You need fitting adapter rings for all speakers. The plastic ones are rubbish, search for "Audi MDF" on ebay for my MDF alternatives
 
AndyMac said:
The fronts are 4" components with 1" tweeters
The rears are 6.5" coaxials
The fronts can be replaced with 5.25" components but depth is limited to approx 55-60mm
You need fitting adapter rings for all speakers. The plastic ones are rubbish, search for "Audi MDF" on ebay for my MDF alternatives
Click to expand...

Thanks... Didn't realise the fronts are so small!

So from what I've researched the following should fit:
Focal 130V1 - height 56.3 from base of magnet to mounting surface (+5mm of protrusion beyond the mount)
Focal 130A1 - height 55.1 (+5mm of protrusion beyond the mount)
Focal 130PS - height 56.5 (+10.5mm of protrusion beyond the mount)

See tech digrams:
http://www.focal.com/files/ft-ps1301.pdf
http://www.focal.com/files/fiche-technique-130v1.pdf
http://www.focal.com/files/fiche-technique-130a1.pdf


Would you need to cut any plastic or just fit a MDF ring to mount them?
 
Last edited:
You need a custom MDF adapter specially for the A3. Those last 130PS components protrude too far beyond the mount and will foul the adapter as you only have 9mm clearance at the front.
No plastic needs to be cut but you will need some Dynamat or similar
 
AndyMac said:
You need a custom MDF adapter specially for the A3. Those last 130PS components protrude too far beyond the mount and will foul the adapter as you only have 9mm clearance at the front.
No plastic needs to be cut but you will need some Dynamat or similar
Click to expand...

So if I have 9mm of clearance at the front wont the first 2 fit (the ones with the 5mm of protrusion out the front)?
 
oops my bad, just re-read your reply!

What does a CAN-BUS adaptor actually do and is it necessaryb? I've heard it's quit costly ~49 or so
 
All it does is provide an ignition on 12v supply which all aftermarket HU's need, and the illumination feed, which dims the HU lights when you dim the dash lights. So it's definately not needed
 
Ok so without it the HU would have no power when the the car key is set to the first ro second click (ie the engine hasn't started but power still runs through the power windows and car fan etc) with out a CAN BUS?
 
No without it you have to run both feeds off the perm live and turn the HU on/off manually. Or you wire in the ignition feed from the fusebox
 
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