Upgrading speakers a3 8L

DaveA3

DaveA3

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Hi All,

Im looking to slowly improve my sound system in my a3 8L. Im swapping out my head unit for an aftermarket one i have 2 at home need to test both (mp3, ipod, usb etc) but then im looking at speakers. to start with since my passenger front is now farting at me

What are the speaker sizes in front and back? 6.5"? do i replace with 2 way and use existing tweeters? or are the tweeters easily replaced to buy a decent component set?

also can i use the existing speaker wiring for now?

in future i either plan to get an andymac sub or a normal 12" in the boot and wondered if it was possible to just disconnect the crappy bose system and replace it in the normal way. (power fron battery to amp in boot and run rca leads etc)

cheers in advance!

Dave :)
 
Hi Dave,

Yes, you can replace the factory speakers, but you would be best off bypassing the Bose amp if you did that. The tweeters are standard 1" in size, but the bass driver needs to be shallow depth <50mm so as not to foul the window winder. Both front and rears do not havestandard fixing holes, so you would need to either buy some rather crappy plastic adaptors, or much better is to make up some mdf adaptors as I did. Andymac has some designs for making the adaptors, which I based mine on. I could pass them on, as I'm sure Andy would not mind.

I cut the factory cabling feeding the fronts in the kick panel and spliced on new cables to my amp behind the rear quarter panel. Easy job to run new cables for the rears and Sub.

I replaced my fronts with an Infinity component set, and the rears with Infinity 6x9" as there is oodles of room back there. Major stiffening work was done on the door cards and rear quarter panels, as they certainly don't help the sound quality.

The final touch was an AndyMac sub to replace the standard fit, with all the speakers driven off an old-school Alpine 5-channel amp behind the passenger rear quarter panel, with a new fused power feed directly from the battery running down the side of the passenger floor.

Check out Andy's website for details of the AMSS : dizzythedog.com

If you fancy a trip down to Bicester for a listen some time, let me know. I'm away in the Lakes for ~6 days over Xmas, but back for New Year, and I'll probably be home this weekend as well, as there will likely be no golf courtesy of the damned white stuff!!!

Cheers,
 
Useful post alijames. So is it possible to just simply link the wires across from the old amp if no longer running an amp for the speakers. For example link the front right preout to front right speaker etc then get onto the loom? As im in the process of getting everything together for this, bit of a project over xmas.

Dave I dont think you can do it all slowly, iv found it all has to be done at once.
 
You cannot link pre-out wiring to speaker wiring, you need to run new cables
 
Good to know. Cheers Andy. Also bought some of your adapters to eBay earlier, hoping to can get them sent asap so I can crack on over Xmas.
 
hmm this is confusing (for me at least). Ive done some basic installs in older cars but this bose system just seems to screw it all up.

so your saying run the fronts off the headunit and the rears and sub off the same amp?

so need a good 4 channel amp? 2 channels for the rear speakers and bridge 2 channels for the sub? i do like the andy mac sub but guess need to here how loud it is might take u up on the offer for a listen in the new year when the weather gets better.

im half thinking of just buying the gear and give someone a few notes to sort it out for me lol Anyone offer that service on here?
 
DaveA3 said:
so your saying run the fronts off the headunit and the rears and sub off the same amp?
Click to expand...
No. With Bose , the front and rears run off a piddly 4 channel amp in the boot, and the sub has it's own in there.
With non-bose, the front run off the head unit, and the rears + Sub are run from a 3 channel amp in the sub itself.

DaveA3 said:
so need a good 4 channel amp? 2 channels for the rear speakers and bridge 2 channels for the sub? i do like the andy mac sub but guess need to here how loud it is might take u up on the offer for a listen in the new year when the weather gets better.
Click to expand...
No, if you want to remove the Bose amp from the equation, you will need either a 5or6 channel amp to run everything as i did, or a 4 channel amp for the cabin speakers, plus a 1or2 channel amp for the sub. I guess at a pinch you could rewire a bit to pick up the internal amp in the headunit for the cabin speakers and just fit an amp for the sub.

No probs on the vist for a listen. I'll be back in Bicester from around the 29th December.

Cheers,
 
wow right ok 5/6 channel amp ill keep an eye out for one on ebay as new they are bucks!

what sort of power we looking for to power the andymac sub?

so my shopping list so far:

5/6 channel amp
mdf adaptors
front (which size?)
rear speakers (6x9? since lots of room u mention)
andy mac sub
4 gauge power cable

im gonna be using a pioneer headunit in this setup

apologies for the all the questions and cheers for all the answers!
 
front speakers need to be 5.25" or 13cm to fit with andys adapters. Maximum mounting depth of 54mm

Would probably say its best to buy 2 seperate amps, as my amp which powers my amss is 300w rms, so asking alot off a single amp to power that and 4 speakers. Best to order a load of sound deadening for when you do the install aswell.
 
ok great ill add to my list :D

1/2 channel amp 300w rms
4 channel amp 300w rms + depending on speakers
mdf adaptors
front (13cm 5.25")
rear speakers (6x9? since lots of room u mention)
andy mac sub
4 gauge wiring kit x2
sound deadening
think thats all it
 
sorry to jump on this and thanks for the thread Dave....more useful than i originally thought

If keeping the original HU none bose, can you simply disconnect the two fronts, chop the rear amp and rewire a new 5 channel in to the amp feed, then run all 4 speakers and bin off that? or would affect my 'stereo' effects...i know it would obviously stop me controlling front to back off the HU.... is there any benefit to this or shall i just wire two new fronts in and maybe replace the rear amp

guessing wiring in a new amp replacing the old is just a case of switching the wires around?
 
Well I don't think it would be a good idea to lose front and rear fading. Also not sure If it's possible to even use 2 sets of preouts to power 4 speakers... And if it was you would still have to run 2 sets of speaker wires from the rear to pick up the front speakers. I would try just amping the rears and use hu to power fronts... That way you can pick use a fairly cheap amp 2 channel amp.
 
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cool, 2 channel will no doubt be plug and play, remove old and replace?

also the rears are 6x9 yeah or does this require cutting?

any recommenations on sound deadening, was looking at 9m roll of 3m whilst im at it, cut a bit of road noise down too if im lucky ;)
 
Tim,

1animal1 said:
sorry to jump on this and thanks for the thread Dave....more useful than i originally thought

If keeping the original HU none bose, can you simply disconnect the two fronts, chop the rear amp and rewire a new 5 channel in to the amp feed, then run all 4 speakers and bin off that? or would affect my 'stereo' effects...i know it would obviously stop me controlling front to back off the HU.... is there any benefit to this or shall i just wire two new fronts in and maybe replace the rear amp

guessing wiring in a new amp replacing the old is just a case of switching the wires around?
Click to expand...

Can't see that being a problem. There are separate front and rear pre-outs on the Chorus/Concert/Symphony head units. I have picked up all four pre outs from my symphony to feed to my 5 channel amp, which has a built in crossover to provide the sub out. Fading and balance all still work fine. I don't believe there are any physical differences between the bose/non-bose headunits, just a software mod to show bose on the display.

Cheers,
 
much appreciated mate, sorry to be a bit daft here but by preout you refer to?

All i remember from my system is the various plugs, two ISO's, one for power the other for the front speakers, then another diff spec plug which feeds to the rear amp...... in laymans?

I gather this is a worthwhile mod or is it pointless with me wanting to keep the symphony? dont want to do too much work for little benefit - only aim is to make the standard system useable as a daily

sorry if this seems like a hijack Dave - just drilling down the detail which is relevant to the thread i think :readit:
 
Last edited:
Tim,

I have kept my symphony, and all is working fine. I like the OEM look, and with the Xcarlink, can play MP3s etc.

BosepinonSymphony.jpg


The above photo is half-inched from AndyMac's site, but shows that you will need to purchase the relevant adaptor to pick up the line-outs, which will give you 4x RCA sockets to hook up to your 5 channel amp, plus the switched live to power on/off the amp with the radio. I think it's the autoleads PC9-410 you need, but can't remember off the top of my head...

Cheers,
 
so need a 6 cable run to the amp, then runs to the speakers...... also i gather i'll be better running the lineouts of my parrot to the amp too...bypassing the connect2 unit... thought this was just going to be a case of buying 4 speakers :) funny how things change when modding haha
 
gonna swap the headunit and speakers this weekend lads wish me luck.

OH! what adapter do i need? PC9 something right? do halfords or similar stock them?
 
PC9-410 and most halfords sell them
you also need an antenna amp adapter and fascia plate, plus speaker fitting adapters
 
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antenna amp adapter? the the thing for the radio antenna so it stays in?

fascia plates are the clips either side arent they? adapters ill grab from you i think. I should have thought ahead but i have that crazy spontanious thing going on atm and fancy it this weekend. Can always change em for some nice wooden ones from u if u still do them mate?

thanks for the help as always
 
ok been to halfords half successful

i got my headunit a JVC with red and white writing.

some 13cm front components (edge or something they were called) look alright cheap n cheerful. 70w rms

only had ****** ripspeed 6x9's so i left those for now. i got the harness adaptor but no speaker adapters.

i think ill order some 6x9s off the net and grab some adapters then fit those later.

ill sort the head unit today hopefully!

ill be back with updates and pictures
 
AndyMac said:
No the antenna adapter is to power the amp in the aerial base, as at the moment it gets it's power through the aerial coax. Without this the radio won't work:
ISO Active Aerial adaptor - Fitting Adaptor
Click to expand...

Strange, mine works without an aerial adapter?

All I would say dave, is make sure you get the wrap around facia, it sits so well on my s3, almost looks oem.
 
i have those 2 clips that go each side for the moment.

mine also works without the adapter andy mate. perfect signal. i think my harness adapter is wrong though. it works but thinks it coming out the rear.

thinking about it my old a3 was non bose and my current is bose so ill order the 410 n see if that resolves it.

sports - whats this wrap around facia mate? is it this one? CT24AU07 Facia Plate for Audi A3 2000> - Install Adaptors
 
Last edited:
more updates

i took back the JVC i bought as it only had 2 pre outs and bought a Alpine CDE-113BTHAL with 4 pre outs.

i put in the edge 13cm components i bought the previous week and ordered some 16.25cm coaxials for the back, theyre in now also. all matched up with the PC9-410 and adaptors. sounds great tbh.

in the future i plan to get an andy mac sub and amp up the speakers to the alpine headunit.

really happy at the moment!

ended up costing my a fair whack though!

Alpine CDE-113BTHAL - £200
13cm EDGE components - £40
16.25cm edge coaxials - £60
Speaker adapters - £25
Harness Lead - £25

£350 in total! sounds alot better but kinda wish i didnt start now coz i want more! :D
 
Yeah that's where I'm disappointed with my system, only have 1 preout! Didn't consider it when I originally ordered.

Makes you realise how poor the Bose system is doesn't it! It's weird, because the systems fitted in the mkiv golfs are pretty good.
 
Just reading this has got me confused again! I'm trying to upgrade mine in similar fashion and you need to get so much extra things just to complicate it further! :keule:

I have an audi concert unit in mine and if I'm to upgrade this to another head unit I need all them fancy adapters, fascias and new wiring looms? I never realised upgrading speakers would be so much hassle!

Whats it like if you stick with the OEM concert head unit
 
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The OEM HU is completely under powered (4 x 20w) so you won't really get much of an improvement.
Upgrade the sub if you want a dramatic improvement and leave the speakers, far better bang for your buck.
 
The stock speakers are quite decent IMO. But the stock head unit is garbage.
 
yeh i plugged in the alpine and instantly the quality was improved with the standard speakers. really need mine amped now though for full benefit.

i wonder what the standard amps rms is?
 
what make/model speakers have people used with Andy's adaptors for the front speakers??..

I'm in the process of upgrading mine just now - (just bought the adaptor rings from Andy) and was looking at some Infinity REF5030CS speakers.. but they have a mounting depth of c57mm (2.25") - which I'm guessing might be too deep - given what has been said above? - so wondered what other alternatives there is??
 
Decided to go for some Pioneer TS-A131Ci for the front - specs below:

tsa131ci.jpg


Pioneer TS-A131Ci Features/Specifications:
  • Maximum output power 300 Watt
  • Nominal output power 35 Watt
  • Impedance 4ohms
  • Frequency response 28 - 29,000 Hz Hz
  • Sensitivity (1W/1m) 89 dB
  • Woofer size (cm) 13 cm
  • Woofer material Carbon Graphite IMPP Interlaced Aramid Fiber Cone
  • Tweeter size (mm) 20,0 mm
  • Cut-out Hole 121 mm
  • Mounting Depth 52 mm
Hopefully these will fit without too much hassle and as I'll be driving them direct from the head unit - figured they were a good match.. I was going to get the Infinity REF5030CS for around the same price - but there was 2 things that put me off.. the first were the impedance of them (2 Ohm) - my head unit, like most other aftermarket units is 4-8 Ohm and the mounting depth issue.. the Pioneers are 52mm, whereas the Infinity are 57mm...

I'm not looking to spend thousands on the stereo/speaker upgrade - but do want it sounding decent. I think I'll get the new speakers fitted in the front and see how they work out, look into getting the rears working and then decide what I'm going to do about upgrades for the rear. I was thinking about an AMSS and some Pioneer coaxials at some point.. see how this all pans out first though! LOL! :)
 
pangsterA3 said:
Interesting as those have a mounting depth of 60mm... Are you driving them direct from the headunit?
Click to expand...

I think they come with a spacer which reduces the depth. But mine have gone in ok, yes they are driven straight off the HU, sounds pretty good, although for best results they need to be fed of a decent amp really.
 
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