8L sub and rear speakers blah blah

Kroney

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Now I know this is an issue that gets asked over and over. Believe me, I've looked through all the threads I can find, but my problem appears to defy reason. The rear half of the car is dead, there's no crackling, buzzing or popping, total silence. I have been through and checked everything I can check, but the amp in the boot doesn't seem to be getting any power. I've checked the wiring at the head and at the sub and everything appears to be connected correctly. This isn't a head unit problem as it doesn't power on with the Concert HU connected either.

I've had the sub out, thinking that it must have blown, but I can't find any evidence of it. I'm not an electronics man, so I only looked for obvious signs, like scorching and bulging capacitors and stuff. I've attached a couple of images in the hopes that somebody might see something that I've missed.

Otherwise, is it possible for it to just decide to give up one day with no obvious explanation? I'm not after hi-fidelity or anything, but it's just bothering me that over half the speakers in my car refuse to do their job and I don't particularly want to spend 50 quid plus on a second-hand replacement for a crap piece of kit, only to find out that the sub's not the component at fault.

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Is there power on the fat red & white cable. This is the perm live and should be 12v all the time. If this is dead then it's a fuse issue, don't know what fuse protects this circuit, so you'd need to check them all.
If it's live then check the remote on trigger which should be 12v with the HU on, then zero with it off.
A3subloompinouts.jpg

If this is OK, can you hear the relay click when it goes on/off?
If all is OK then the amp is blown. As it drives both the rears and the sub this is why you've lost both.
A replacement unit is about £30 on ebay, loads available as most people are only too keen to get rid of the Nokia garbage.
Audi A3 96-03 Genuine Subwoofer on eBay (end time 27-Sep-10 11:14:20 BST)
 
Hi, thanks for that. The wiring in these cars is totally bent.

When you say test the wires, I'm slightly ashamed to say that I've never used a multimeter before. What would be the procedure, one contact to Pin 1 and the other to Pin 4 and then Pin 5 and Pin 4 to check the remote on?
 
Just buy a 12v testing screwdriver, far easier to use. You just clip the earth to the chassis of the car and probe around with the screwdriver until it lights up.