Todays mod!

Try eBay ultra hids Bradford got mine there, they dispatch next day, recommend them

You can change the snub mount without touching the front end. The bracket the bush sits in is adjustable.

I seriously wouldn't waste your time with the pinch bolts mate, not really necessary if you're just doing springs and seats. Much quicker and easier to leave in place. I don't even think soaking them makes any difference as its usually a combination of the bolt being bent and a bi-metallic reaction. If you start with the pinchers and they sheer etc then life gets very tricky and time consuming and there's no going back.
And as above, snub mount was a 30 min job including jacking and removing/refitting the under tray.

I found a guide for a B6 to get the struts out. You just unbolt the pivot bolts behind the shock at the top. It's actually really easy to get the struts out. I forgot to put the shocker top washer on after changing the springs and I had the strut out again in under 10 mins.

I've got all new shocks and front arms to fit soon though which will prob be a bigger job!

Sorry to hijack... now about to order an APR snub mount...best place to get one? APR website jut lists prices cant see a link to buy one

Cheers mate

My way doesn't touch any of the control arm bolts so no need to upset them.

It's really quite simple,
1) Jack up the car and support under the sill, remove the wheel, caliper and disc, just unbolt the caliper and move it, don't actually disconnect it.
2) Get yourself some small ratchet straps, not ones with hooks or seperate tails, just the ratchet and fixed tail. I have them for holding ladders on my landrover. Feed the straps down through the spring, one on each side of the spring.
3) using another jack lift the hub and compress the strut assembly, I take it up just enough so the cars almost lifting off the stand under the sill.
4) Tighten the straps around the spring, so they hold it in the compressed position.(using straps btw instead of spring compressors as I find they're easier to use and take up less space and can hold more coils of the spring so when the weight is released you don't loose as much compression)
5) Lower the jack under the hub, undo the lower strut bolt.
6) You should be able to compress the damper up with your arms and lift the fork of the strut off the lower control arm. Sometimes I've had to use a small pry bar as you'll be fighting against the damper returning to its natural position but you can't really damage anything.
7) Open the bonnet and undo the 3 upper mounting bolts, an extra pair of hands is good here as the assembly will drop in side the arch.
8) Whole assembly should be loose and low enough that you can lower the triangular plate down and out of the wheel arch giving you access to the strut upper securing nut.
9) Removing the nut will let you remove the damper and spring to change what you need to. Depending how long I'll be I sometimes bolt the triangular plate back up with just one of the bolts just to hold it out the way and stop stressing the ball joints by leaving it hanging.
10) Refitting is just the reverse, Only thing you need to do is compress the spring with the straps before refitting.

Might have missed wee bits but that's pretty much the basics, quite simple and quicker than the pinch bolt way.