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Thread: Diverter Valve

  1. #1
    Quattrodude's Avatar
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    Diverter Valve

    Hi All,
    I'm quite new to this forum having only bought my first Audi about 3 weeks ago.
    It's a 2.0t Avant Quattro with 85k on the clock, one careful lady owner since 2005.
    I've been browsing the site and been reading up on the diverter valve subjects and it seems like quite a common but inexpensive and small job to remedy.
    However, what I'd like to know more of is how does the car perform when the valve is shot? Is it a gradual decline or instant and do the symptoms depend on the severity of the failure?
    The reason I ask is that when I first got the car, I didn't think it seemed as fast as it should be although I thought that might be just the fact that it is 4 wheel drive and so the sensations on acceleration are not as same as in a 2 wheel drive car.
    Like I said, I've read up a bit on here and have started to think that my diverter valve may be shot, but I still have my reservations.
    When I'm in traffic or having a blast down the lanes, the car feels quite lively and fun to drive, it's only when I get further through the rev range or past 2nd gear that the acceleration when coming onto the motorway from a slip road, or blasting off a roundabout on a duel carriageway, that it feels more sluggish than I'd like. I thought the turbo would take me a lot further than it does and the car would feel very quick, however it just feels like a nippy 2.0 na engine.
    I'm thinking about getting it over to Awesome GTI in Irlam to have it looked at, but from what I am explaining above, does this seem like a diverter valve issue?
    Cheers
    Chris
    A4 2.0T Avant S-Line Quattro, room in the boot for a leisurely lifestyle

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    I would take it off yourself and have a look at it as awesome will charge you just as much to look at it than it is to replace it. You can not miss it if it's broke it will be split like this.

    uploadfromtaptalk1391973625006.jpg

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    Quattrodude's Avatar
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    Thanks for the pic, that will come in handy if I bother to take off the valve myself.
    Just wondering what other owners experienced before they decided to check their valves for faults.
    A4 2.0T Avant S-Line Quattro, room in the boot for a leisurely lifestyle

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    I`ve had mine for about 5 months now, I previously owned a volvo s60 t5 which felt a lot quicker, luckily as my neighbour purchased the volvo we compared 0-60 times and there was no difference, they just feel slow mate, probably nothing wrong just get a re-map

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    Quote Originally Posted by cjsmidt View Post
    I`ve had mine for about 5 months now, I previously owned a volvo s60 t5 which felt a lot quicker, luckily as my neighbour purchased the volvo we compared 0-60 times and there was no difference, they just feel slow mate, probably nothing wrong just get a re-map
    That's the plan eventually, just want to make sure I'm running 100% as standard first so I can feel the true improvement
    A4 2.0T Avant S-Line Quattro, room in the boot for a leisurely lifestyle

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    Quote Originally Posted by Quattrodude View Post
    Thanks for the pic, that will come in handy if I bother to take off the valve myself.
    Just wondering what other owners experienced before they decided to check their valves for faults.
    To be honest I can kind of understand were you coming from.

    But let me sort of try give you a few ideas.

    The car for a start is around 1600kg which a little 2.0t motor has to move that weight which already in its own is a bit of a struggle. Having said that when they get going they get going. Considering I own a quattro myself it may not give you the initial kick like the fwd but the difference is that your traction will out way the fwd version were it be dry, snow or wet.

    Another thing I can explain is your car has what they call a Ko3 turbo which ill be honest is big by any means so your initial kick will be nice and low down from say 2000 rpm and your peak boost will be anything around 2800/3000rpm. Anything after 5000/5500 rpm if you have taking it to that rev range, you will notice that initial poke isn't there because the turbo runs out of steam at high revs.

    If the diverter valve is torn/shot/damaged your car wont boost correctly so it wont be a gradual decline it just will feel underpowered all the time.

    You could always just get a local mate to scan your car for fault codes because usually the diverter valve will show up if there is a fault.

    Having said all the above if you driving the vehicle and say you in 2nd gear around 2000rpm and literally just nail your foot flat to the floor as the car goes through the revs you should feel a surge as well as you should feel your front wheels trying to pull the car forward but gravity pushing you back in your seat now this sort of force wont be the one of a 500hp car but it should give you a reasonable amount of push back. If its not pushing you, basically you loosing power some were.

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    Quattrodude's Avatar
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    Hi thanks for the reply, the car does feel poky at low revs, and to be honest it feels quite quick but I thought it would feel quicker off the lights and in higher revs.

    Maybe I am used to the torque pull of a diesel having owned a few over the years.

    Interestingly, I find that acceleration feels better when I press the accelerated lightly, rather than flooring the pedal. Not sure why.

    I've had the car checked over by a mate who is a mechanic and they tested it against another 2.0t they had in and said there was no difference. The valve on that one could be shot of course !
    A4 2.0T Avant S-Line Quattro, room in the boot for a leisurely lifestyle

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    Hi mate, check my GFB DV+ diverter valve review, it should help you alot. It does sound like your valve has broken. My drove the same with a knackered valve! It did feel like a NA 2.0 without a turbo...

    Go Faster Bits DV+ T9351 turbo bypass valve for TFSI engines review

    Kind Regards Alistair
    Last edited by Big Al; 20th February 2014 at 22:19.
    Audi A4 B7 2004 red 2.0 TFSI Quattro Sport saloon, Servotronic steering, MFSW, CDIS, DRL with Coming Home, auto dual xenon lights/wipers/mirrors, split folding rear seats, 3rd headrest, centre armrest, Isofix mounts, RS4 rear ARB, pedals & carbon dash trims; Audi TTS 9Jx18alloys (2 sets), Yokohama AD08 summer, Conti TS830P winter 245/40/18 tyres, TPI 15/20 spacers/lockers, Pipercross filter, GFB DV+ turbo valve, NGK BKR7EIX plugs, Osram Silverstar Xenarc D1S bulbs. Build thread

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    Quattrodude's Avatar
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    Hi Al,
    Cheers for that, I'm certainly thinking of upgrading to one of those.
    Recently I've been quite happy with the car, it's sporty, agile, holds the road like nothing I've driven and picks up nicely whilst on the move.
    I had some fun on a roundabout in the ice a few weeks ago .
    I do think I will replace the valve anyway just to be 100% happy that it's giving me what I bought it for.
    Having owned an X-Type 2.0 diesel before my Audi, I guess I'm just not used to having to change down a gear to get the maximum performance.
    As most people know, you can overtake in 4th in a decent diesel and they will accelerate you up a 20% incline in 5th!
    A4 2.0T Avant S-Line Quattro, room in the boot for a leisurely lifestyle

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    Hi there,
    i have same problem with my car, i bought A4 Avant SE Sline quattro BUL engine, car have 67k miles done and im sure that the car is not pulling as it should. But in my case situation is not so complicated because after VCDS scan i got that :

    008801 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction
    P2261 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 00101000
    Fault Priority: 0
    Fault Frequency: 5
    Mileage: 106794 km
    Time Indication: 0

    Freeze Frame:
    RPM: 3374 /min
    Load: 9.8 %
    Speed: 119.0 km/h
    Temperature: 80.0°C
    Temperature: 16.0°C
    Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
    Voltage: 14.097

    I will replace Dv with latest D series and maybe add a DV+ adapter i will replace N75 too just in case, however i have 2 more fault codes and i have to sort this out before i go for re-map

    001056 - Catalyst System; Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold
    P0420 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - MIL ON
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 11100010
    Fault Priority: 0
    Fault Frequency: 1
    Mileage: 106739 km
    Time Indication: 0

    Freeze Frame:
    RPM: 2404 /min
    Load: 27.8 %
    Speed: 99.0 km/h
    Temperature: 79.0°C
    Temperature: 18.0°C
    Absolute Pres.: 980.0 mbar
    Voltage: 14.097 V

    and that

    001602 - Sensor Reference Voltage A: Circuit: Low
    P0642 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 00100010
    Fault Priority: 0
    Fault Frequency: 1
    Mileage: 107070 km
    Time Indication: 0

    Freeze Frame:
    RPM: 0 /min
    Load: 0.0 %
    Speed: 0.0 km/h
    Temperature: -40.0°C
    Temperature: -40.0°C
    Absolute Pres.: 0.0 mbar
    Voltage: 0.000 V

  12. #11
    craigcull's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lukas883 View Post
    Hi there,
    i have same problem with my car, i bought A4 Avant SE Sline quattro BUL engine, car have 67k miles done and im sure that the car is not pulling as it should. But in my case situation is not so complicated because after VCDS scan i got that :

    008801 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction
    P2261 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 00101000
    Fault Priority: 0
    Fault Frequency: 5
    Mileage: 106794 km
    Time Indication: 0

    Freeze Frame:
    RPM: 3374 /min
    Load: 9.8 %
    Speed: 119.0 km/h
    Temperature: 80.0°C
    Temperature: 16.0°C
    Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
    Voltage: 14.097

    I will replace Dv with latest D series and maybe add a DV+ adapter i will replace N75 too just in case, however i have 2 more fault codes and i have to sort this out before i go for re-map

    001056 - Catalyst System; Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold
    P0420 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - MIL ON
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 11100010
    Fault Priority: 0
    Fault Frequency: 1
    Mileage: 106739 km
    Time Indication: 0

    Freeze Frame:
    RPM: 2404 /min
    Load: 27.8 %
    Speed: 99.0 km/h
    Temperature: 79.0°C
    Temperature: 18.0°C
    Absolute Pres.: 980.0 mbar
    Voltage: 14.097 V

    and that

    001602 - Sensor Reference Voltage A: Circuit: Low
    P0642 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 00100010
    Fault Priority: 0
    Fault Frequency: 1
    Mileage: 107070 km
    Time Indication: 0

    Freeze Frame:
    RPM: 0 /min
    Load: 0.0 %
    Speed: 0.0 km/h
    Temperature: -40.0°C
    Temperature: -40.0°C
    Absolute Pres.: 0.0 mbar
    Voltage: 0.000 V
    Definitely worth changing the diverter mate, I've got a brand new rev D, will post for £40 if it's any use to you? Don't think the other is engine related, could be battery or alternater related, but I could be wrong. Give me a pm if needs be
    K04 hybrid turbo. S3 injectors, Autotech hpfp internals, RS4 fuel pressure regulator, custom FMIC, APR carbonio intake, decat pipe, milltek cat back non resonated 100mm tips, unicorn developments custom remap, launch control and flat shift. Valet mode, economy map and full power map options. Stage 3 southbend clutch with single mass flywheel, Eibach pro street coilovers, eibach front and rear anti roll bars, porsche cayenne 6 pot calipers front, S4 rear brake conversion.


  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quattrodude View Post
    Hi All,
    I'm quite new to this forum having only bought my first Audi about 3 weeks ago.
    It's a 2.0t Avant Quattro with 85k on the clock, one careful lady owner since 2005.
    I've been browsing the site and been reading up on the diverter valve subjects and it seems like quite a common but inexpensive and small job to remedy.
    However, what I'd like to know more of is how does the car perform when the valve is shot? Is it a gradual decline or instant and do the symptoms depend on the severity of the failure?
    The reason I ask is that when I first got the car, I didn't think it seemed as fast as it should be although I thought that might be just the fact that it is 4 wheel drive and so the sensations on acceleration are not as same as in a 2 wheel drive car.
    Like I said, I've read up a bit on here and have started to think that my diverter valve may be shot, but I still have my reservations.
    When I'm in traffic or having a blast down the lanes, the car feels quite lively and fun to drive, it's only when I get further through the rev range or past 2nd gear that the acceleration when coming onto the motorway from a slip road, or blasting off a roundabout on a duel carriageway, that it feels more sluggish than I'd like. I thought the turbo would take me a lot further than it does and the car would feel very quick, however it just feels like a nippy 2.0 na engine.
    I'm thinking about getting it over to Awesome GTI in Irlam to have it looked at, but from what I am explaining above, does this seem like a diverter valve issue?
    Cheers
    Chris
    I would start with the diverter 100% mate, mine was the same, as above, rev D with the GFB DV+
    I have 2 new Rev D's. Bought them for mine, but ain't doing what I want with the stage 3 map. Forge seems to be the only one that works, could save you some cash. Pm me if your interested
    K04 hybrid turbo. S3 injectors, Autotech hpfp internals, RS4 fuel pressure regulator, custom FMIC, APR carbonio intake, decat pipe, milltek cat back non resonated 100mm tips, unicorn developments custom remap, launch control and flat shift. Valet mode, economy map and full power map options. Stage 3 southbend clutch with single mass flywheel, Eibach pro street coilovers, eibach front and rear anti roll bars, porsche cayenne 6 pot calipers front, S4 rear brake conversion.


  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quattrodude View Post
    That's the plan eventually, just want to make sure I'm running 100% as standard first so I can feel the true improvement
    Yep, depends what shape the DV is in damage wise.....all the symptoms lead to a knackered dv. It does make a significant difference when changed....I had no symptoms other than as a 2.0t I thought it should have been quicker. The DV probably should be done as precautionary measure anyway.....it's a cheap part in comparison to other bits and bobs. Wonder if we should have bets to see what model dv is on there.....and what kind of nick its in.....get the pics up once it's done.'

    Good Luck,
    A
    Quattrodude likes this.

 

 

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