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  1. #1
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    Changed my Diverter valve yesterday

    Following this post last year:

    Intermittent Turbo Audi A4 2.0 FSI

    I finally got my diverter valve changed on my 2.0T FSI
    Got it done at a local place and it took about 10 minutes to do, I was able to keep hold of the old valve.

    It actually doesn't look too bad:





    Looking at the valve above I was a bit disappointed, not to see damage like others have seen on their valves.

    BUT the difference in the pick up of the car is amazing!!!! I must say if you have this engine it is WELL WORTH replacing. For a small price it gives great benefit. I can really feel the power in the car now

    Just wanted to say a quick thanks to all that helped me on here.

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  3. #2
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    Good stuff mate mine was exactly like that, no apparent tears in the one I removed but the difference in the drive was fairly noticeable!

    I nipped up all the intercooler hoses whilst I was under there as well for good measure.
    /// B7 Avant 'Quartzgrau'

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  4. #3
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    nice one

    good to hear that yours was similar too
    car really flies now

    you done a remap yet?

  5. #4
    Molnboman's Avatar
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    Well done.....if you are getting a remap you would need to have it done anyway. You have pulled the valve apart haven't you to check for skirt damage?

    BR
    Allan

  6. #5
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    I'll definitely be having it mapped in due course bud, just going about the usual weak spots first (DV/PCV/cam follower etc..)

    After a couple of tanks of V-Power and some Archoil 6400 (fuel system cleaner) it seemed better too, I imagine the previous owner ran it on 95RON.

    I pulled my old DV in bits Allan, no tears at all. It looked fairly new to be honest, so it did surprise me that the car was pokier straight away
    /// B7 Avant 'Quartzgrau'

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  7. #6
    Molnboman's Avatar
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    Good man Pat...That must have been replaced before. Check the number on the side and google. I'd be a Monkey's Uncle if that was the original! Mine's was completely sh@gged at 110,000miles! Aye, the updated model is a millions times better and you'll need it anyway for the remap.

    Cheers
    Allan

  8. #7
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    The one I pulled was a revision C, replaced with a piston type revision D. Let's see how long this one lasts! Car has 51k miles
    /// B7 Avant 'Quartzgrau'

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  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Molnboman View Post
    Well done.....if you are getting a remap you would need to have it done anyway. You have pulled the valve apart haven't you to check for skirt damage?

    BR
    Allan
    yes pulled apart - there is no obvious damage to the insides of the valve

    must be the new design that is better and helps the car pick up more acceleration

    what would be the first thing to change or do to get a remap?

  10. #9
    Molnboman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by psd99 View Post
    yes pulled apart - there is no obvious damage to the insides of the valve

    must be the new design that is better and helps the car pick up more acceleration

    what would be the first thing to change or do to get a remap?
    I thought there was an inbetween revision of diverter valve before the latest one....maybe I am wrong there.

    Quick Answer: You just done it Mate!.....Am no expert but if you are getting a re flash ecu upgrade wether it's a Shark, APR, BSR or MTM it will max at Stage 1, take you to around the late 240's bhp on a 2.0t. There's nothing to upgrade other than the diverter valve at that power. You should keep an eye on your PCV and if that goes you should cap it off or replace it. Clearly, it's gonna put a bit more stress on your clutch and brakes and stuff......but nothing more you need to do as long as you have it in good mechanical order. Maybe new Plugs, fresh oil wouldn't do any harm, and check your cam follower for wear....only thing I was advised was to make sure I only use 98 ron fuel and let the turbo cool down before switching the ignition off, as clearly it will be working a bit harder with the extra horses.

    Cheers
    A
    Last edited by Molnboman; 31st July 2013 at 19:15.

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Molnboman View Post
    I thought there was an inbetween revision of diverter valve before the latest one....maybe I am wrong there.

    Quick Answer: You just done it Mate!.....Am no expert but if you are getting a re flash ecu upgrade wether it's a Shark, APR, BSR or MTM it will max at Stage 1, take you to around the late 240's bhp on a 2.0t. There's nothing to upgrade other than the diverter valve at that power. You should keep an eye on your PCV and if that goes you should cap it off or replace it. Clearly, it's gonna put a bit more stress on your clutch and brakes and stuff......but nothing more you need to do as long as you have it in good mechanical order. Maybe new Plugs, fresh oil wouldn't do any harm, and check your cam follower for wear....only thing I was advised was to make sure I only use 98 ron fuel and let the turbo cool down before switching the ignition off, as clearly it will be working a bit harder with the extra horses.

    Cheers
    A

    thanks mate

    I will read more into it
    the car flew home haha

  12. #11
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    Just changed mine , power was way down I knew what it was and had a d revision valve waiting to be fitted , wow what a difference now its absolutely flying now.
    06 A4 AVANT QUATTRO 2.0T S-LINE SE,GARNET RED, RS4 REAR ARB,SPACERS ALLROUND,H & R SPRINGS,B5 PERCHES,A6 V8 RIMS.PORSCHE CAYENNE TURBO S SIX POTS .REVO ST2 MAP ,MILLTEK CATBACK EXHAUST,PANEL FILTER,034 INTAKE PIPE.

  13. #12
    V.A.G.erbond's Avatar
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    Hi need advice please would you all recommend a revision d over the forge or turbo revs and other such valves? I need to do this mod but not sure which is the best to go for?

  14. #13
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    [QUOTE=V.A.G.erbond;1935739]Hi need advice please would you all recommend a revision d over the forge or turbo revs and other such valves? I need to do this mod but not sure which is the best to go for?[/QUOTE

    The revised VAG OEM diverter valve is the cheapest and is very good and can handle loads of extra horses if your tuning, so I don't see why you need to go for aftermarket myself but that's my opinion.

    Cheers
    Allan

  15. #14
    V.A.G.erbond's Avatar
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    Thanks for that will get rev d

  16. #15
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    It will make a significant difference, even if the valve in there is perfect!

  17. #16
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    Called TPS for a price for rev d £50 +vat. So ordered same part from eBay £47 delivered.

  18. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by V.A.G.erbond View Post
    Called TPS for a price for rev d £50 +vat. So ordered same part from eBay £47 delivered.

    good work I spent about £60 from ebay I think must have reduced in price.

  19. #18
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    What is the part number please ?

  20. #19
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    Really want to get mine changed now!

  21. #20
    V.A.G.erbond's Avatar
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    Here's my link also shows part no.

    http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/vie...d=261250273755
    Last edited by V.A.G.erbond; 4th August 2013 at 20:51.

  22. #21
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    Would anyone happen to know where I could buy the Rev D Diverter Valve for my Cab B7 1.8T? All I can see is everyone talking about DVs for 2.0 (checked other forums too) but haven't been able to find anything for my 1.8T yet... I could imagine that the one for 2.0 would not fit my engine, so is my only option to get it directly from Audi dealer?

  23. #22
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    I got mine from Awesome GTI. The original DV was in pretty good condition but it feels much better with the revised version.

  24. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by V.A.G.erbond View Post
    Ordered on Friday arrived this morning. Can't fit it until Weds though. Will update when fitted.

  25. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by UberFiz View Post
    I got mine from Awesome GTI. The original DV was in pretty good condition but it feels much better with the revised version.
    Thanks UberFiz! I just checked their website and the only DV I can see for my engine is the £130.80 APR R1 DV... Is that the one you had in mind? If so I was hoping for the cheaper OEM Rev D instead;(

  26. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by maikysupra View Post
    Thanks UberFiz! I just checked their website and the only DV I can see for my engine is the £130.80 APR R1 DV... Is that the one you had in mind? If so I was hoping for the cheaper OEM Rev D instead;(
    Goapr website £117

  27. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by V.A.G.erbond View Post
    Goapr website £117
    I'm sorry guys if I'm missing something obvious here, but I'm still seeing only suggestions for the aftermarket APR diverted valve... Does it mean that I can't buy the OEM rev D unless I go to the dealer, or perhaps there is not even a rev D DV for my engine at all??? I would really appreciate if someone could clarify this for me...

  28. #27
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    The older 1.8T engine has a completely different diverter valve. The OEM ones are rubbish, buy yourself a Forge one. Black for OEM look, FMCL007P or newest, more efficient design is FMDV008 Forge Motorsport | Alloy Fabrication

    If you wish to have it fitted, Awesome are good - Forge 008 Diverter Valve for VAG 1.8 20v Turbo and 2.7T - A4 (B7) - Audi - Shop By Car
    Audi A4 B7 2004 red 2.0 TFSI Quattro Sport saloon, Servotronic steering, MFSW, CDIS, DRL with Coming Home, auto dual xenon lights/wipers/mirrors, split folding rear seats, 3rd headrest, centre armrest, Isofix mounts, RS4 rear ARB, pedals & carbon dash trims; Audi TTS 9Jx18alloys (2 sets), Yokohama AD08 summer, Conti TS830P winter 245/40/18 tyres, TPI 15/20 spacers/lockers, Pipercross filter, GFB DV+ turbo valve, NGK BKR7EIX plugs, Osram Silverstar Xenarc D1S bulbs. Build thread

  29. #28
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    Thanks Big Al! So at least I know that my best option is to go aftermarket... I believe, I've heard somewhere that the forge DVs suffer from stuck piston issues a lot. The APR R1 seem to be pistonless system. Would you still Recommend the Forge over APR? Reliability for me is paramount ( CVT tranny doesn't allow me to do much with my tuning ambitions anyway

  30. #29
    V.A.G.erbond's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by maikysupra View Post
    Thanks Big Al! So at least I know that my best option is to go aftermarket... I believe, I've heard somewhere that the forge DVs suffer from stuck piston issues a lot. The APR R1 seem to be pistonless system. Would you still Recommend the Forge over APR? Reliability for me is paramount ( CVT tranny doesn't allow me to do much with my tuning ambitions anyway
    I ran the forge for a few years without issue. They are easy to maintain especially because of where it is mounted overall a great piece of kit.

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    Is there a trick to getting the clip off the connector? Don't seem to be able to shift it.

 

 

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