Drivers window wont work!! Argghhh

wyliss

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Its frosty here this morning and upon trying to lower my drivers side window I heard a crack/snapping noise. When I press the button I can hear the motor but the window won't work.
If anyone can shed some light I'd be most appreciated.
TIA
 
I'd say the cable has snapped mate.

I just fixed my passenger side, £50 for the gear and about 3 hours work.

Quite a daunting job, but it's not as bad as it looks if you hit it methodically.

I would advise not to get the repair kit, instead go for the full kit with runners.

Best way to find out what's going on is to take the door card off.

Dan
 
Thanks Dan. What PITA it is. I've just looked at a video You Tube!
Have I got to take the whole door apart and do I need to replace the regulator too?
Cheers
 
Probably due to the glass being iced to the rubber & probably weak already from years of usage, do as suggested fella.
 
Thanks Dan. What PITA it is. I've just looked at a video You Tube!
Have I got to take the whole door apart and do I need to replace the regulator too?
Cheers

Like I say, it's not as bad as it looks mate.

Yes, you basically have to take the whole door apart, swap the mechanism and it should work fine.

The one I bought is here, but obviously you need the drivers side one: -

http://www.veedubmachine.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11_14&products_id=866

Drivers side is here -

http://www.veedubmachine.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11_14&products_id=865

Hope that helps.

Dan
 
Cheers boys. From watching the video the guy mentioned to mark where the old regulator went. Surely the bolt positions are the same?
 
I didn't mark anything to be honest, not even where the screws & bolts went because they are pretty much all different.

Happy to give advice if you get stuck, I only did it 2 weeks ago.

Dan
 
Cheers Dan, you're a good lad!
I/ve always gone to TPS for my parts but the place you gave me the link to looks good.
 
I've just called TPS, £100 for the part!!!! Rip off. Veedub it is !
Thanks Dan for your help and info, much appreciated.
 
I've just called TPS, £100 for the part!!!! Rip off. Veedub it is !
Thanks Dan for your help and info, much appreciated.

Yes, VDM was the best price I could find.

No problem mate, happy to help.

Dan
 
Do you need to do anything to seal the door again to stop water getting into the interior? Just curious.
 
I've just taken the door trim off and yes the cable has snapped!
New part on order.
Cheers guys for your help. Audi would have wanted well over £300 to fix.
 
Do you need to do anything to seal the door again to stop water getting into the interior? Just curious.

Not quite sure what you mean mate.

The weather stripping all stays in place, apart from the top door seal that you need to peel back and re-install.
 
Wyliss, thank us when it's fixed.

Ha ha.

Good luck with it mate.
 
Thanks Nathan for the offer, very kind.
I'm about to attempt this PITA job on Saturday. Is it correct that I must have the glass all the way down into the door before mech removal?
TIA
 
Thanks Nathan for the offer, very kind.
I'm about to attempt this PITA job on Saturday. Is it correct that I must have the glass all the way down into the door before mech removal?
TIA

I'm not sure if you "have to" but I got mine down for the job.

Got the wife to hold the button down and then just pulled the window down. Went down nice and easy.

Which part did you buy to fix, if it's the full kit I linked you to then I'll have a couple of tips for you.

Dan
 
Right, good.

First of all, the new cable clip that comes with the kit is too long. It's a plastic c-clip that keeps the cable away from the window by affixing it to the door frame. The one that comes with it is longer than the existing one and fouls the window.

I couldn't use the existing one as it was too large to keep the new cable in place. The new cable must be a smaller diameter than the old.

What I did was break off the existing one and scrap the new one. Neither are any good to you. I then drilled a small hole in the frame just below (5mm) the hole left by the existing clip and tie-wrapped it. It doesn't move when the window operates so can be tight as you like.

Secondly, the cable crossover on my new one was opposite to the crossover on the old one. This worried me as it looked like it would foul the window. In practice, it doesn't and it makes no difference so ignore this.

Lastly, when removing the mirror cables from their retaining clips, carefully cut the fabric tape - don't try and remove the retainers. When refitting just use 2 small cable ties on the existing clips, one either side as they are lipped.

The above will mean nothing to you at this point, but they will as you come across them during the job.

I'll PM you my number in a minute, drop me a text if you get stuck and I'll do my best to help. You may not need to as its actually fairly simple if you are methodical, but it saves a panic if you get stuck.

Dan
 

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